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67 v6 Restomod build

kmathis

Donation Time
You have done some of the nicest sheet metal work I have seen. Your whole dash and console situation is going to be stellar when completed. I also love the pan that you made in the trunk for your fuel cell. A great idea sinking it down a bit.

Isn't it nice when you get that first coat of epoxy on it...all of the metal work behind you and now its getting close.

Looking real good:)
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
Looks really nice! The orange is really an attention grabber! What is the plan for instruments, electrical and powertrain?
 

Alfred Pine

Silver Level Sponsor
So, I'll add in a pic of the front, power-train, and for the interior plans.

I do not shy away from custom touches and when she came to me her condition did not lend itself to a "restoration". So you'll note her nose has had a bit of work done. I molded the chrome lip into the actual bodywork (seen race cars run without it and it just looked stubby wrong) I also removed the passenger side bumper mount (using Driver side for mounting front license plate) to make room for a bit of air dam work in the lower valance which look good with the stripes.

As for the interior...White and grey will be the color pallet, I've built a custom waterfall dash and console that are a seamless piece. I have a new wiring kit, a set of custom Speed hut gauges.

Power-train will be reinstalling the cleaned up (but not rebuilt yet...next season maybe) 2.8l that came with her.
 

Alfred Pine

Silver Level Sponsor
The car came with a Pete's Performance Wiring kit uninstalled. I will be working with that plus some, as the changes and additions I have made will require a bit of extra effort.
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
The car came with a Pete's Performance Wiring kit uninstalled. I will be working with that plus some, as the changes and additions I have made will require a bit of extra effort.
That is a good option.

Things I suggest adding:

350A fuse in line with the battery right near the battery.

40A fuse in line with the battery feed to the ignition switch.

Those two additions makes the system very robust. A short pretty much anyplace means a fuse blows instead of a wire burning up. The 40A number may change if you use regular light bulbs. I now have LED lights everywhere and 40A was enough for everything.

The fuse values in the fuse block can be adjusted if you want, I measured every circuit and brought a lot of the fuse values down to lower currents.

Other than that, get a proper crimping tool (most are cheap junk) for the connectors you use, pull test the connections after making the crimp, heat shrink cover them all, and you should get a good result.
 

Alfred Pine

Silver Level Sponsor
That is a good option.

Things I suggest adding:

350A fuse in line with the battery right near the battery.

40A fuse in line with the battery feed to the ignition switch.

Those two additions makes the system very robust. A short pretty much anyplace means a fuse blows instead of a wire burning up. The 40A number may change if you use regular light bulbs. I now have LED lights everywhere and 40A was enough for everything.

The fuse values in the fuse block can be adjusted if you want, I measured every circuit and brought a lot of the fuse values down to lower currents.

Other than that, get a proper crimping tool (most are cheap junk) for the connectors you use, pull test the connections after making the crimp, heat shrink cover them all, and you should get a good result.

Thanks for the tips!

It's a good thing I'm not totally lost on wiring because the directions that came with my kit leave quite a bit of room for misunderstanding.
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
Thanks for the tips!

It's a good thing I'm not totally lost on wiring because the directions that came with my kit leave quite a bit of room for misunderstanding.
Yeah, quality of product is good, documentation not so good. If you need help or have questions feel free to ask. I recently did my Alpine, and as an EE have done electrical for custom cars and experimental aircraft among many other things.
 

Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
Thanks for the tips!

It's a good thing I'm not totally lost on wiring because the directions that came with my kit leave quite a bit of room for misunderstanding.

Contact me and I will send via email all the documentation I have created for installation. I agree with regard to Rebel documentation - not very helpful. I have quite a few charts/diagrams/tips to assist with installation. I am also available via email or phone for tech help if needed. Regards, Pete
www.petesperformancewiring.com palmjeld at yahoo dot com
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Hey all,

Thanks for peeking in to see how things are going with my build. I thought it was time for another set of pictures for you all. Hope you enjoy...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FjgxJasT5owIMD2i2
Love the color and stripes. The tank recess looks nice and the wheels too. Great work all around. I have the fuel cell but have not recessed it...yet. My do that but still thinking. The side tanks had to go and I am building a highway driver with O-Drive and 4 cylinder built for torque...MPG.
 

roger

Bronze Level Sponsor
[hi, i have a v6 sv w/ rebel wiring and could use you tech tips, or anything else. my email is yakairshows@yahoo.com. quite a project, Ijust try to do a section at a time thanks, roger marshall .QUOTE="Paul A, post: 182064, member: 613"]Contact me and I will send via email all the documentation I have created for installation. I agree with regard to Rebel documentation - not very helpful. I have quite a few charts/diagrams/tips to assist with installation. I am also available via email or phone for tech help if needed. Regards, Pete
www.petesperformancewiring.com palmjeld at yahoo dot com[/QUOTE]
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Fantastic! Back here in Sunny South Carolina (Clemson Tiger Territory) you would have a time keeping that beautiful "Furious Creation" in your possession:)
 
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