62 S2 Brakes sticking

[SoCal'beaming]

Hi All ... I've taken my 62 out of moth balls (2-3 years) and have fixed a few issues from it sitting so long, fuel pump, leaking stuck carbs and misc. Pushing it out of the garage I had a heck of a time getting her to move but a second back helped. The brakes seem to be hung up, worked fine with no issues when I put her to sleep, still full of fluid. I'm waiting on some help to bleed the system to see if that helps. Any ideas or suggestions?

..... Thanks again! .. David

 

[Barry]

Was the parking brake on while in moth balls? If so, I would bet on stuck / dragging rear brake shoes. In any case, a floor jack and a a little time / effort should reveal where the body is buried.

 

[jumpinjan]

Pull the rear drums off and see whats going on. I have seen cars that sat for years and have the rear brakes locked up. Some from rust and/or leaking brake cylinders.
Jan

 

[SoCal'beaming]

Thanks Barry and Jan ..... Thought it might be the frt. calipers so jacked up the frt. NOPE! ... jacked up the rear and the rears are really stuck .. can't seem to find the access hole to back off the adjusters or I'm missing something?

...... David

 

[BEpine]

The adjuster is a 1/4 square head nut located at the top of the backing plate.
Sounds to me the parking brake is still engaged and locking the shoes to the drum.

 

[SoCal'beaming]

The adjuster is a 1/4 square head nut located at the top of the backing plate.
Sounds to me the parking brake is still engaged and locking the shoes to the drum.

Silly me ... it's been awhile since I tinkered with it .... had to find my manual to see that. The parking brake is free and actually needs to be adjusted to even engage. Got the drum off finally, no ridge on the drum. Looks to be a problem with the wheel cylinder, doesn't seem to want to move in the bore much(the boot is fried)

.......... Thanks!

 

[DanR]

Nice looking soft top! What brand/mfg'd?

I'll be needing one soon.

 

[alpine_64]

Nice looking soft top! What brand/mfg'd?

I'll be needing one soon.

Dan,

This is one of the few early series tops I've seen that are actually installed CORRECTLY you can see the rear flap is sitting just right angling down around the whole back.. the tennex stud on the frame hinge isn't James into the drain flap on the top which means the top is located correctly forward... And there aren't the pinched ripples around the rear 3/4 from if the tops to far back... Install is such a key thing.

 

[jumpinjan]

...Looks to be a problem with the wheel cylinder...

Its time to rebuild the brake system with new rear brake cylinders. Also, the top return spring needs to be put behind the shoe, like the bottom one. I'm surprised the spring wasn't rubbing on the hub.
Jan

 

[SoCal'beaming]

Dan .. I'm not sure of the brand ... Would there be a makers mark somewhere on the top? Michael ... The top use to fit alot better several years ago but has shrunk up a little around the hinge/b-post area and has snapped off one of those tennex studs and is stress splitting at the seam there. I try and keep the top conditioned regularly to keep it from getting worse and of coarse the rear window is starting to dis-color. Thanks Jan ... I had thought about rebuilding them but with there age and the boot and crud that came out of it I think new ones are the way to go. are the clips that hold the wheel cylinder available, and should they be replaced as well? ... Also, while messing with it (bleeding that side) the flex hose sprung a nice size leak ... this sett back may have saved Me, possibly others and the car as well! ... Not much fluid came out initially and it wasn't pretty looking then on the 3rd time that hose pooped. I probably should replace all the flex hoses and flush the entire system. Are those cylinders, clips and hoses still available from S.S. ?

...... Thanks so much everyone for the help, David

 

[DanR]

Its time to rebuild the brake system with new rear brake cylinders.

Instead of new cylinders and all of the "other" stuff needed... go with rear disc brakes? I have them available! Best brake system you will ever need.

The Series I I bought from Allan Ballard last December has the same problems mentioned above. Constant dragging/locking up. I am replacing all of the original stuff with "new" calipers, rotors, pads and my especially designed brackets for the Sunbeam. Allan bought the shock mount kit that Doug Miller was selling (I now sellthe shock kit) to replace the lever action with tube types but never installed. That will be another update for better handling /ride safety.

DanR

 

[SoCal'beaming]

Well, spent a better part of yesterday trying to free up the pass.side drum, locked up worse then the drivers side. Had to locate the hole in the rim with the one in the drum, fired up the car and was barely able to move it into position so the (access?) hole was right at the whl. cylinder, drove the piston down with a rod and rocked the car back and forth and it popped free ... easier then the hours spent pounding with a sledge and 2x2 which wasn't working. The inside is clean and the parts look like there not that old. I never worked on the brakes on this car, must have been the P.O. My question to club members is ... The wheel cylinders look fairly new except some odd looking corrosion on them. This car is still Pos. Grd could that have a part to play in them locking up and the associated corrosion? or the fluid was old in the lines?

 

[bernd_st]

Get the pass. side brake slave cyl. renewed too as already mentioned earlier. It's definitely badly corroded also internally. That kind of blooming alu corrosion happens on longer standstills and is not related to the battery polarity. Means it occurs on neg. eath cars too...

 

[SoCal'beaming]

Get the pass. side brake slave cyl. renewed too as already mentioned earlier. It's definitely badly corroded also internally. That kind of blooming alu corrosion happens on longer standstills and is not related to the battery polarity. Means it occurs on neg. eath cars too...

Thanks for the input .... I thought it only sat about 2-3 years but the wife said more like 6+ .. My error for not taking the time to take her out.
Would rebuilding them work or are new the way to proceed?
.... David

 

[bernd_st]

You may be lucky with a rebuild/seal renewal, but wouldn't waste any time on it. Most likely the inner bores are pitted means new rubber won't seal properly or get bad again after short useage. Replacements are rather cheap so definitely the way to go. Put some copper paste where the new ones join the back plate so that they can move back and forth in the fixation slot...

 

[jumpinjan]

This car is still Pos. Grd could that have a part to play in them locking up and the associated corrosion?

No. What kind of metals are used there? Steel & aluminum? Dissimilar metals, right? But there's moisture that gets in there too.
When the brake fluid turns brown (any color but clear) it's full of contaminants, and should be replaced ASAP.
Jan (And please don't say to use silicone fluid is the answer...it has it's problems too!)

 

[SoCal'beaming]

Put some copper paste where the new ones join the back plate so that they can move back and forth in the fixation slot...

Thanks for the good advice! ..... are the rubber gaiters necessary?

When the brake fluid turns brown (any color but clear) it's full of contaminants, and should be replaced ASAP.

Thanks again.... For sure and Certain!

Jan (And please don't say to use silicone fluid is the answer...it has it's problems too!)

I have no experience with it but I'm sure it does.... Thanks!

 

[SoCal'beaming]

One other question ..... When flushing the "entire? system front to back should brake fluid be used or is another solution(liquid) be used to get that brown crud out before refilling and bleeding and how to keep that stuff out of the new parts ..... I'm guessing lots of bleeding!

..... Thanks, David

 

[bernd_st]

Thanks for the good advice! ..... are the rubber gaiters necessary?

To install them is a bit fiddly while the added protection value is rather questionable. If you intend to ride in nasty weathers perhaps they make sense. I usually leave them off & never encountered any issue with this - even after heavy thunderstorm rides ...

 

[bernd_st]

One other question ..... When flushing the "entire? system front to back should brake fluid be used or is another solution(liquid) be used to get that brown crud out before refilling and bleeding and how to keep that stuff out of the new parts ..... I'm guessing lots of bleeding!

..... Thanks, David

A good thorough flush with normal brake fluid should wash the crud out. You may clean the brake master reservoir though with a wiping towel before the refill. Pump out the old fluid into a glass container and reuse it with the old fluid for bleeding. You'll note the difference once fresh fluid comes out with dirt and will finally clear up...