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302 Series V Project

Mascasey113

Donation Time
Hey guys,

Here are a couple photos about the project that I inherited from my grandfather. After countless hours of research and reading threads, I have a basic understanding of what needs to be done. I have a rebuilt 302 engine from an 80's mustang with a Tremec T5 that I plan on using. I also have a bunch of miscellaneous Tiger parts that my grandfather had set aside for this project.

Thanks to @volvoguys I recently just bought a tiger firewall that I plan to repair and weld fast to my alpine firewall after I cut it. Has anyone ever repaired sheet metal like this? Any questions and ideas are very helpful.

I am pretty young and new to this so I am going to need all the help I can get on this entire project so please please please ask any questions or give any comments.

Thank you,

Matthew
 

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My advice is if you want a tiger, buy a tiger. in the end you'll spend the amount of money and you'll have no value at the end.
the value will be literally the same as an alpine.
 
A lot of aspects to consider with this project.


FYI, it looks like that T5 trans is Not

a Ford version. It appears to be an 1985

Camero/Firebird NON- V8

Check 1st gear ratio, most likely 3.50, V8 would be 2.95

DW
 
It was my pleasure to meet this fine young man earlier this week and we, as a marque, can only pray more will follow.

Tho Matthew is quite young (college student), he is ambitious and going into the project with his eyes wide open. I was impressed by just how much he already knows about the car, the challenges of a V8 conversion and his fearless determination to complete this car in honor of his late grandfather. I have no doubt he will see it through.

I respectfully ask my fellow marque-mates to welcome this newcomer. Encourage his progress and offer any/all helpful advice to help him along.

Welcome, Matthew.

Mark ..... volvoguys
 
Welcome Matthew! Nice to see new young blood into the hobby! As someone that has been restoring
these cars for much longer than I'd admit to, please feel free to ask any questions you may have. Please
do so via PM.
Cheers!
Steve
 
Bravo a young guy who can do something with all 10 fingers. You're not alone I ran into a bunch from a State Uni engineering into ICE vehicles...
Plus whatever we can do here!
 
Thank you for all the support! It's been a dream of mine to work on cars and own my own classic someday so I am very determined to see this project to completion.

I looked up a picture of a 1985 Camero trans and it is identical... I Haven't looked at my first gear ratio yet but I will definitely find out and let you know.

Today we pulled the car out and cleaned her up with a shot-vac and looked at the firewall. I will sandblast the tiger firewall and see where to go from there. When trying to pull out the brake master cylinder and pedal, I got the bolts loose but can't seem to figure out how to get the spring off to completely remove it.

After vacuuming the floorboards, there was a lot of rust and excess sound detoning on the floors. Does anybody know of a method to get rid of or tame the rust? Any sort of paint I can paint over or anything else??

Attached are some photos of the floorboards and a bunch of parts that I went through. I also have a series 1 grill that unfortunately wont fit my series V.
 

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I remember asking my mom when young where is the elbow grease.
Well I found it by looking in the mirror...
;) But a nice disc sander 4" I like the Makita ones 36 then 60 grit followed by a nice reversing drill with several wire wheel brushes. You can go cheap with Ospho which is a Phosphoric acid wash or spend more for a Evaporust like product Rust release gel. It's slow and you need to dampen it a lot but the results are better than the acid and its water soluble and easy to work with. If that was a model A it'd be described as no rust . They mean it's got no holes in it. . Dust mask good gloves ear buds and ear protection over them all.
 
Thank you for all the support! It's been a dream of mine to work on cars and own my own classic someday so I am very determined to see this project to completion.

I looked up a picture of a 1985 Camero trans and it is identical... I Haven't looked at my first gear ratio yet but I will definitely find out and let you know.

Today we pulled the car out and cleaned her up with a shot-vac and looked at the firewall. I will sandblast the tiger firewall and see where to go from there. When trying to pull out the brake master cylinder and pedal, I got the bolts loose but can't seem to figure out how to get the spring off to completely remove it.

After vacuuming the floorboards, there was a lot of rust and excess sound detoning on the floors. Does anybody know of a method to get rid of or tame the rust? Any sort of paint I can paint over or anything else??

Attached are some photos of the floorboards and a bunch of parts that I went through. I also have a series 1 grill that unfortunately wont fit my series V.
The master cylinder springs are held in place with an indented cup in the ends towards the pedal. You'll need to significantly depress the spring to slide the cup out sideways via a slot in the cup.
 
Hey guys,

Here are a couple photos about the project that I inherited from my grandfather. After countless hours of research and reading threads, I have a basic understanding of what needs to be done. I have a rebuilt 302 engine from an 80's mustang with a Tremec T5 that I plan on using. I also have a bunch of miscellaneous Tiger parts that my grandfather had set aside for this project.

Thanks to @volvoguys I recently just bought a tiger firewall that I plan to repair and weld fast to my alpine firewall after I cut it. Has anyone ever repaired sheet metal like this? Any questions and ideas are very helpful.

I am pretty young and new to this so I am going to need all the help I can get on this entire project so please please please ask any questions or give any comments.

Thank you,

Matthew
Mathew,
Your Grandfather is smiling down on you for continuing his project, have fun with it!
 
Welcome Matthew, I think it's awesome that you are completing your grandfathers dream and you can't put a price on that. When done it will be the most valuable car you will ever own and I for one am proud of you. I bought my Alpine 49 years ago when I was 15 and still drive it daily and over that time there were people who told me not to waste my time and money on it, I just think they don't know the real meaning of value and the difference between value and money. This is a great site and will be here to help you.
 
Does anybody know of a method to get rid of or tame the rust? Any sort of paint I can paint over or anything else??
I've had really good results with a phosphate spray . I believe it's called "Rust Kutter" that I purchased at tractor
supply. Clean the floors as best as you can, but don't have to get it 100 percent. The phospate will convert anything left to a whitish surface. You can then use your favorite rust preventative paint as a top coat and the rust
will be history.
 
The master cylinder springs are held in place with an indented cup in the ends towards the pedal. You'll need to significantly depress the spring to slide the cup out sideways via a slot in the cup.
Try using a couple of zip ties to compress the spring. After removal, leave the ties in place on the spring and it will make the later installation easier.
 
Took the seats out and all leftover carpet and stuff so I can work with just the floor board. I ended up buying Rust Kutter from tractor supply and today I attempted to scrape the paint and rust off with a cordless drill wire brush attachment....as you can see, I didn't get very far. So I just ordered a rust remover wheel that attaches to my grinder which should come in soon.

I attempted to take out the dashboard because my friend has a cnc cutter who is willing to build a wooden dash for me!! I also want to get all wires and stuff out of the way as well as clean my dash up. I took out the three main big screws and the bottom lip and still couldn't take it out. any guidance on how to take the dash out??


Thanks
 

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Once the padded lower roll and 3 screws are removed, several more things will still be keeping dash from pulling out: speedo cable, heater control cables, choke cable, 2 clamps that hold the wiring harness (affixed to gauges). All individual wires to instruments/switches will need to be pulled off. Removing the lower bracket will allow the steering column to drop a bit and make it easier to remove.
 
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