• Join us for the SAOCA 25th Anniversary Invasion

    Let's go back to our Rootes – Dayton, Ohio
    July 30–August 2
    DoubleTree by Hilton Dayton Fairborn

    For details and to let us know you're coming, visit this thread.

    Cars | Fellowship | Fun | 25 Years of Memories

    This should only be viewable by board members. Send me a PM to let me know if you approve or have suggestions.

  • Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

2.8l Build Thread, may be different than what you're used to! But hopefully educational.

mummert said:
A little progress report
Click to expand...
Mummert,
Thanks for sharing this - very interesting and educational! Not to hijack your thread, but would like your thoughts on a subject we kicked around on this forum years ago: Someone proposed the idea of machining a Ford 4.0 V6 crank to fit the 2.8 block. The general consensus was the machine work was straight forward, but the heads were so constricted that it probably wasn't worth pursuing. Given your obvious expertise in head modifications I would be interested in your thoughts. It seems stroker kits are quite popular in many circles.
Thanks in advance!
 
Geoff, do you know about the added steam holes between the chambers? Are you going to use floating or pressed piston pins?
 
Last edited:
That is interesting. I've read about the 4.0 crank. I cant say that I would do it, but I wouldn't try and stop anyone either. Everyone want something different from there engine.
The air flow limitations of the engine might lead to think about going that way but not as extreme. 3.1L or something of that nature would make a nice jump in mid range performance. Using the Subaru rods on a 2.9 crank offset grinding .070" stroke with .040 overbore would get real close.
I think the 4.0l crank must have counterweights o.d. cut a fair bit to drop in the block from what I've read as well as the snout mods.
Tough to say.
This combination will come out right around 2.9L working with the crank that drops in and we'll see where it goes.
 
Last edited:
260Alpine said:
Geof, do you know about the added steam holes between the chambers? Are you going to use floating or pressed piston pins?
Click to expand...
Yeah I've seen that done. Its pretty common on V-8's with side by side exhaust ports. I was waiting to get some head gaskets. Do the ranger 2.8 head gaskets have a left and a right side. I almost bought some the other day and I wasn't sure about that.
 
Thats what I thought. I some listed for sale new in the package, described as left and right hand with 2 different part numbers. I didn't that was correct.
 
Last edited:
The crank showed up today. Looks good, according to the grinder the #2 journal was .008" short on stroke. Go figure.
 
I installed AC when building my SI V6 conversion. DanR’s parts numbers worked for him but what I finally did was (as suggested) visit several junk yards looking for Ford vehicles with the 2.8 L V6 and scrounged a random assortment of parts that I was finally able to make work via trial and error. If I recall, finding a 2 groove damper of the correct depth was the biggest challenge. You might try EBay also…there are often 2.8 l parts there as well
 
Excellent work! I am thinking of using the Subaru rods in my 260 SBF rebuild now too. I hate the idea of the stock 5/16" rod bolts. Two sets of these pistons .040. GT40 heads too. I know this is off topic but the Subaru rods got me thinking.

racerwalsh.com

2.3 ICON Pistons for 5.2″ Rods RWA1563F

RWA1563F ICON premium forged pistons are made from high-strength, T-6, heat-treated, 2618 primary aluminum alloy. They feature a diamond-machined skirt, head, mini-grooves, pin bore, gas accumulator, ring grooves, and pressure-drilled pin hole oiling. They have a V-rib design for lightweight...
racerwalsh.com racerwalsh.com
 
Last edited:
If the dimensions work out. Make sure the forging has material to get the valve pockets in the right place.
 
If you are going to build a small displacement engine look for 65' 289 heads 55cc chamber, no smog junk in the exhaust port, as cast bigger bowl than common 302 and 5.0l heads.
 
Thanks, I Thought the 65-66 heads would be good too as they have the small chambers and a little bigger valves than the 260 has. The GT40 heads would have to be milled about .040 and I'm already backpedaling on the Forged pistons and going to Hyper ones for half the price. Looking forward to your 302 build.
 
66 heads are similar in spec but have smog junk in the exhaust ports. 65' are the good ones. In 65' they one main casting so even though they are one year only they arent too tough find.
4 barrel heads had smaller 52-53cc heads but they are tougher to find and more expensive.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top