1959 Rapier Rear Axle Threads

[Chrisp Rapier]

Hello, I am continuing the work on my "now less than a basket case" Rapier. When I worked on my brakes Last year I removed the rear axle nuts. Both were real difficult to remove them. After now examining the axle threading, I realize that they both must have been hammered on. I gaged the diameter on the passenger side and the axle was flared out considerably. On the driver's side it was even more damaged. The last three thread turns are completely destroyed. I ordered a thread die and a thread file with hopes of getting the nuts to start on the threads. The good thing is the threads of both sides are in very good shape from the cotter pin hole, on in. I think if the nuts will be secure if I can get them on.

 

[Shannon Boal]

Take your time and file the diameter to remove the flared portion.

 

[Alpine Addict]

I had a machine shop repair mine. Did it on a lathe.

 

[jumpinjan]

I realize that they both must have been hammered on.

Hammered on???!!! So these are the axle nuts. Yes, a machine shop could revitalize the threads with weld & cut the new threads on a lathe....as Steve K. has mentioned
Jan

 

[Chrisp Rapier]

Take your time and file the diameter to remove the flared portion.

That is exactly what I did this morning with a small flat file and time. I have measured with a micrometer and the flared part is now even with the peak of the threads. The one side has only one turn of the threads affected. The other side has more damage to about three turns of the threading. Tomorrow I am supposed to receive the thread file so maybe I can have a somewhat proper threading to start the repair die I bought. I have never used a repair die before but I thought it would be less aggressive than a regular die. We shall see.

 

[Chrisp Rapier]

I had a machine shop repair mine. Did it on a lathe.

Yes that would be best and that is my next step if my first step is not good. Thanks.

 

[Chrisp Rapier]

Hammered on???!!! So these are the axle nuts. Yes, a machine shop could revitalize the threads with weld & cut the new threads on a lathe....as Steve K. has mentioned
Jan

Yes I can see hammer marks on the passenger side axle. I can even see a slight angle of the front face as if the hammering was not evenly done. I bought a car that was someone's project from 30 years ago that they gave up on. The guy died and fate has landed it in my hands. Lots of dumb things were done. I spent the winter redoing the upholstery. Last summer I rebuilt the top end of the engine. Well halfway rebuilt. It was locked up solid. I freed it up, got it running. Now it starts up every time like a champ.

 

[Chrisp Rapier]

 

[Shannon Boal]

That is exactly what I did this morning with a small flat file and time. I have measured with a micrometer and the flared part is now even with the peak of the threads. The one side has only one turn of the threads affected. The other side has more damage to about three turns of the threading. Tomorrow I am supposed to receive the thread file so maybe I can have a somewhat proper threading to start the repair die I bought. I have never used a repair die before but I thought it would be less aggressive than a regular die. We shall see

That is gonna be perfect. The re-threading dies cut less, forming the metal. Feel your way along, cut forward about one-fourth rotation then back one-half.....

 

[Chrisp Rapier]

I finally received the thread file and got to work on the axle threads. I am very happy with how it worked out. The Driver side lost only about a half turn of the first course of thread. The passenger side was much worse to begin with. That one I had to remove the first 3 turns of the thread. However, the threads after that are very good. The new castle nuts are taller. I decided to use them as is and use a thinner bushing (fat washer). That way I have a lot of thread contact. This made me comfortable with torquing to spec. The thread repair die worked very well after I got enough of a starter thread with the thread file.