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1725 Series V Head.

Jimjordan2

Donation Time
I'm starting a new rebuild on an engine for the Sunbeam. I'm bound and determined to build one of these that won't stake it's claim on my driveway. Yes, I could pull the engine that's running right now, but then going at my pace, it may be many months before I have a driving car again. This way when I'm ready, I'll just swap them out in one day. Can't miss Cars and Coffee in So. California. Even though it's winter, yeah, we still drive em'.


head 1.jpg head 2.jpg

Anyway, the head that I have
is one of the solid heads, meaning the sparkplug holes are cast in the head instead of the tubes. The question is; All my previous heads have had dual springs on the valves and this one has only one spring on the valves. Actually a different design spring? or will this be a problem, and do I/should I have double springs?
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Some of the later heads and iirc all arrow series bar the h120 ran single springs not the doubles. I think you can run the doubles if you want.

What work will you do to the head? Vizard mod? Clean up intake and exhaust ports per factory tuning manual? 3 angle valve grind? Bigger valves?
 

Jimjordan2

Donation Time
Basically just building a stock engine. Will probably go with the port polishing, but other than that just repairs to the water passages etc. I'm not sure of the condition of the valves yet, but they appear to be just grindable. Staying with a stock cam, but will be changing over to a Webber Carb.
 

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Gordon Holsinger

Diamond Level Sponsor
Basically just building a stock engine. Will probably go with the port polishing, but other than that just repairs to the water passages etc. I'm not sure of the condition of the valves yet, but they appear to be just grindable. Staying with a stock cam, but will be changing over to a Webber Carb.
Jim, the later heads have slightly larger valves SS lists different valves for the series 5.
 

65beam

Donation Time
This engine is original to our 69 GT fastback. It's a 1725 and the head does not have the spark plug tubes like earlier heads. It does have single valve springs. I had a series 5 that was roughly 50 cars from the end of production and it had the same head and the engine had the casting changed to accept the engine mounts used when the fastbacks started production in place of the series Alpine. I have maybe a hand full of these later heads. I probably have an NOS set of these single springs in my stock for my cars. Notice that the fastback had the engine set at an angle so it would set under the hood.100_0252.JPG
 

Jimjordan2

Donation Time
Jim, the later heads have slightly larger valves SS lists different valves for the series 5.

So, you're saying if I go with this head and need valves, I'm up the proverbial creek? Or what?
I wonder, would they take the same valve guides? Guess I'll go do some measuring.
 

65beam

Donation Time
The two styles of 1725 heads use the same valves and the same guides. At least that's what I've found from having both styles of heads rebuilt over the years. If you check the SS catalog you'll find there is only one intake and exhaust valve available for the 1725. The 1494 used a different intake valve but the same exhaust valve as the 1592 engine. These valves are different than the 1725. Keep in mind that valves guides are the same for all 3 sizes of engines as were the spring retainers and the valve keepers. Wish you the best on stopping oil leaks!
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
The aluminum heads on the Arrow Range had slightly narrower intake ports than on Series Alpines. 65beam, does your late Series V head have these narrower intake ports?
 

Gordon Holsinger

Diamond Level Sponsor
So, you're saying if I go with this head and need valves, I'm up the proverbial creek? Or what?
I wonder, would they take the same valve guides? Guess I'll go do some measuring.
Jim I have checked the parts book 1725 alloy heads show a dual valve spring part # 5220824
 

65beam

Donation Time
The aluminum heads on the Arrow Range had slightly narrower intake ports than on Series Alpines. 65beam, does your late Series V head have these narrower intake ports?
Don't have any idea concerning the diameter of intake ports. All the heads are on the shelf in the back of one of my storage buildings and I can't get anywhere near them. The local Sears store closed and the wife bought all the plastic floor tiles in the hardware department so with them stacked in this building access is very limited. One member has seen inside this building so he knows what I'm up against as far as being able to even get in the building because of the Sunbeam parts.
 

nsbluenose

Silver Level Sponsor
Dual springs for Series V heads are becoming scarce. I recently purchased a set from Sunbeam Spares in England. Roughly $145.00 plus $15.00 shipping. But they were the right ones, Series 1 to 4 springs do not fit.
 

Jimjordan2

Donation Time
Here I am, thought you'd like a status report.
The parts are complete; Engine over 30, decked for flat. New pistons, Crank taken down 10/10, Cam, standard grind, repair fuel pump lobe. obviously any new bearings etc. etc. New oil pump, new water pump. Oh, and tappets reground.
Big chore of the day was chasing all the threads in the engine previous to assembly. I like the idea of finger tightening the nuts or bolts before I need a wrench. Especially in the tight places. So Ok, you're gonna ask Why Blue, and why Chrysler Blue? The engine # is 18113, which makes it close to end of production, hence I believe it should be blue, but what color blue, I know Ford blue has been mentioned, but, my car carries a Chrysler Penta Star, and Well, Why not?18113 Engine.jpg
 

65beam

Donation Time
Did you check the clearance of the oil pump rotor and the base plate clearance of the oil pump. I haven't found any new ones that didn't need work.
 

Jimjordan2

Donation Time
Head should be done today, will post photos when I get it.
I normally don't buy much of anything from VB, but their oil pump and water pump are reasonably priced, I've not had any problem with either in the past. Never thought to open up a new oil pump and measure things.
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
I pretty much always pull the oil pumps apart and then cut them down to the minimal clearance spec. They are usually at the high end of clearance when you get them.
 

spmdr

Diamond Level Sponsor
Yup, check that oil pump for clearances AND notice the pump housing also.

The pump housing has a groove in the round machined mounting boss, intended to squirt oil up to the gears.

Most of those grooves are excessive.

If I tell you how I reduce the groove size, I'd have to ....Well ....the K word is a bit harsh....

DW
 
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65beam

Donation Time
Head should be done today, will post photos when I get it.
I normally don't buy much of anything from VB, but their oil pump and water pump are reasonably priced, I've not had any problem with either in the past. Never thought to open up a new oil pump and measure things.
Pull up the TE/AE site and you'll find an article about checking and modifying the oil pump.
 

whiskytangofoxtrot

Silver Level Sponsor
I just bought some new springs from isky, they are pretty common springs but installed the seat pressure was about 7 lbs more. Send the Cam to delta they do great work.
 
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