150 strom rebuild

[66Alpine]

hi everyone,

have removed the stroms from the manifold finally..one easy to break down, the other one is being a bear..i.e. i cannot get the nut off the bottom of the carb..the one that is left after removing the mixture fitting..applied massive torque and penetrating oil..no go..my mechanic tried and told me that too much torque might crack the casting..others have said to heat up the nut with a torch and try..perhaps cross threaded or simply has not been touched for 44yrs?
any suggestions would be appreciated or it looks as though i may need to locate another carb!!!

Please, some good news..after all,tis the season...

thank you ,

johnny

 

[sunbeam74]

Johnny,

Is the jet assembly made from brass or aluminum? I have a few of the assemblies that are aluminum and it seems like there's a tendency to have the threads gall. (Sadly, I have a NOS carb which somebody broke the threads out of due to a stuck assembly)

Unfortunately, I don't have an easy solution for you but you might want to add heat. Then spray a good penetrates on the assembly. Do this for a couple of days - maybe in the morning and in the afternoon.

Then, after the week of cycling this process give it a serious try.

It is brass I think you stand a better chance of removal without damaging the carb body.

Good luck.

Steve


PS, I wonder if an ultrasonic cleaning would help... then try the heat and penetrate.

 

[Nickodell]

As aluminum has a higher coefficient of expansion than brass, if the jet assy. is brass try getting your box/socket wrench in place, then apply heat to the outside of the casting. If you time it right, and apply torque before much heat has penetrated to the jet assembly, you may expand the casting enough to be able to get the jet off with reasonable force. This might work even if it is aluminum, again if you time it right before the heat soaks through.

 

[sunbeam74]

The key thing is to repeat the process of heating and applying pentrat over a period of time. Don't try and remove it - just let it soak in - over days and days. It is best to let the process do the work for you.

Tapping with a small hammer the assembly very lightly couple of times when hot could help. (not from the side but on the face of the nut)

The other question I meant to ask... do you have the float bowl removed? This will expose the threaded area better. I am pretty sure if you remove the screws holding the float bowl cover then you can remove it.

Steve

 

[Ken Ellis]

Very light bursts from an impact wrench may help. If using an air wrench, start a low pressure so things don't get outta hand.

Ken

 

[gordonra]

Open flame and a vessle that contains or contained gasoline? I was always taught that this was a bad thing.

 

[Bill Blue]

Open flame and a vessle that contains or contained gasoline? I was always taught that this was a bad thing.

A point is reached where the original contents are immaterial. I doubt there is enough gasoline left in that carb to light a match.

Bill

 

[sunbeam74]

At this point.... carbs 90% disassembled, there should be no fuel left to worry about. The float bowl should be off... everything but that damn brass or aluminum jet housing that won't unscrew.

Give it time... don't rush the process. Just keep adding heat and then spray something like Kroil on the part. You don't even need to heat it that much. Just enough to cause some thermal expansion of the metals which will aid the oils in getting into the threads.



Steve

 

[66Alpine]

carb rebuild..almost a severe pain in the arse..

Thanx to erewon 4 your quick responses,

i heated the casting with a butane torch( which is aluminum ) and then applied ice to the nut assembly , and repeated the process 3x..then applied the required5/8 socket with a break bar or some sort of heavy gauge wrench...it finally succumbed to perseverance..the fitting was incredibly coated with hardened petroleum residue..like glue..some carb cleaner and kerosene did the trick in dissolving it..I will be sure to lubricate the fitting with some white lithium grease or comparable lube before reassembling the carb..


Thanx again,

Happy holidays to all,

Johnny