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Nissan in Alpine

britbeam

Donation Time
I see what Bill is saying about first glance it appears how can that fit but I know youve worked all that before it looked this nice. Looking back at the pics it appears you had a V6 engine prior to this engine. If Im correct Im just curious why the change? Not being negative here just wanted to know. Your engine is looking real nice and will be looking forward to seeing the performance report.
Dwain V6 Krazy
 

bashby

Donation Time
Thank you, no worries!
When I bought the car it had a 2.6 liter (non Jose) V6 with a C4 automatic. The motor was in bad shape (burned 1-qt every 200 miles) and the auto made it a pig, the 3.31 rear diff did not help the fact. I live at 5,500'asl and the roads go to 12,183'asl so, to me a turbo made sense.
The Nissan was expensive to build, parts were not too difficult to find they just took time. It fit with no mods to the engine bay, steering or suspension and very little to the transmission tunnel (the Nissan 5-speed is longer than a Toyota's 5-speed).
The Nissan motor weighs 316 pounds completely dressed (turbo, alternator, starter, clutch assy etc) which is lighter than the 1752 or V6, the block only weighs 74 pounds (cast iron). The intercooler, piping, BOV and couplers add another 20 pounds.
A friend was swapping a Nissan SR20DET into an MGB (but he has a lot more room) and that is what got me thinking...a lot more work and $$$$ than I accounted for but is that not the norm?
After I started I found out that this swap (no intercooler though) had been made by the Brits and Aussies using a Toyota 5-speed but then they do drive on the wrong (or right) side of the car and they did not have to deal with the steering box-exhaust manifold issues.
I did make it harder than it needed to be (dual exhausts, accusump, intercooler, larger turbo, new engine management etc).
Nissan quotes a conservative 175 HP and 168 lb-ft Torque from the factory with 6-8 psi, smaller turbo and smaller intercooler I am expecting 250 HP and with 4.11's an LSD and 5-speed she should move better.
Photos are at http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/573533795qiTiQI
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Yes, it seems these projects always cost more than estimated. The "Incidentals" kill you. I paid $153 for the new engine, thought I made the buy of my lifetime. It was a good buy, so was $10 for the new flywheel, but $50 for flywheel bolts really got my attention. Lets not mention the $5 spent for bolts (many times) that were not needed because of a "design" change or the items purchased and not used because something better was found. Good quality bolts are expensive.

And so it goes. Sure keeps a fellow busy, though.

Bill
 

bashby

Donation Time
Yes, true Grade 5 and Grade 8 bolts/nuts are expensive and I am replacing all of the bolts on the car (that I can) for the seat belts I went with aircraft bolts.
 

bashby

Donation Time
The motor is in!

The motor is in the car! Put it in completly assembled (w/o transmission) no issues yet there should not be as I have fitted everything before.
 

socorob

Donation Time
I was looking at your webshots and was wondering what kind of tires did you use and how far they stick out past the rims.
 

bashby

Donation Time
Robbie, they are 195/55-15's BFG G-Force Sports. The wheels are Minilite 15x6 and the tires stick out 1/2" from the rim (unladen state).
 

socorob

Donation Time
I plan on running the same size tire, and I was trying to figure out my backspace. I have almost 4-3/4 from my hub to balljoint so I was thinking about going with 4-1/2 backspace up front. I want to try to tuck the wheels in as much as possible up front.
 

bashby

Donation Time
I am using 4" because no one seemed to know when I purchase the wheels. I measured 5/8" from the wheel to the ball joint with the Minilite 15 x 6 and a 4" backspace. If I had it to do over again I would go with a 4-1/4" backspace.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
If I'm thinking correctly (I never know), 4 1/4" backspace on a 6" wheel would give you 1 1/4" offset, which is the same as the factory wheels.

Bill
 

bashby

Donation Time
The rear differential/suspension, exhaust system from the crossmember pass-thru back is on the car! So far no issues (other than re-making the turbo oil and water lines). I also applied a reflective film to the engine compartment where I am concerned in an attempt to protect the paint from excessive heat (hey it worked on the McClaren F1).
Photos are at http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/573533795qiTiQI
 

bashby

Donation Time
A little more progress, the motor is and hooked to the 5-speed! The ancillaries are all on (except for the fuel injectors as my lifting methods would damage 2-of them). The brake master cylinder is not in, the Wilwood high volume 7/8" bore fits but it is close, so close that I ordered the Nissan F10 unit and brake reservoir. Front suspension, Radiator, Intercooler, injectors then it is time for the wiring.
 

bashby

Donation Time
Rear suspension ride height

Well I R&R'd the rear suspension as it is, Ford 8" w/4.11's and LSD, wirebrushed and painted the leaf springs, bolted it all back up, added the Spax adjustable shocks and, she sits 2-1/2" too high. I am hoping once the wheels are on the front that it will be normal. The front-end of the car is sitting on blocks and jack stands until the motor is done and then the rebuilt front suspension with S-III springs goes in.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
4.11? Wow, you are going to have trouble holding that thing down in low gear. Maybe second. Unless low is something like 3:1, I think your tires are going to go up in smoke when the turbo kicks in. My tires start spinning at 3200 in low and you will have about twice my power. Are you installing traction bars?

Bill
 

64beam

Donation Time
Hi Bashby,

The engine bay looks great and I still can't get over the work in those headers. Did I read correctly that you are using wire wheels? If so, will they stand up to the power?

Regards, Robin.
 

bashby

Donation Time
Robin, Thanks! The header took some thought and was a pain, would be easier the 2nd time around (but cannot imagine that now) the engine bay is cluttered or full depending on the viewpoint. I am adding an external wastegate as I am concerned about the vacuum port clearance to the frame rail and full adjustablity using the Haltech controller (we are at 0.8 atm (5,500'asl) where I live and go up to 0.45 (12,000'asl) atm here in Colorado). Other than the header and turbo the motor fits very easily with plenty of room.
No, I am using 15x6 Minilites with BFG-GForce 195/55-15's (wires definitely would shredd).
Bill- I have thought about it though, need to drive her first get the motor broken (in NA mode) in then crank up the boost to 1-bar she should not be on full cook until 4000 rpm and she'l have a 8000 rpm redline. If the car is not what I want or fun then I will change it; after all of this if she needs a simple gear change then, I will spend an afternoon. Ironic though as this car came with 3.31's...
Traction bars well, my version of them are on WebShots you can sort of see them on one of the rear axle shots on page 10.
 

bashby

Donation Time
My Doug Jennings rebuilt A-Arms arrived today! They look excellent, he trued them up, acid dipped, epoxy painted, installed the urethane bushings and Ball-joints, very well done, quick turn around and good pricing. Front suspension will be under her by the weekend. My new U-Bolts arrived as well (Stengel Bros. custom U-Bolts) they dropped right in and are ridiculously reasonably priced.
 

jmthehermit

Donation Time
How did you get hooked up with Stengel Brothers? Their shop in Allentown is the best place to get a front end alignment for vintage vehicles or hot rods. Too bad you're so far away. It's the only place I take my cars for suspension work. Jeff
 
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