-
Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.
If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.
Enjoy.
Nissan in Alpine
- Thread starter bashby
- Start date
That's amazing....
It appears you fab'd the roll bar too. Normally I don't like the look of the double loop but that thing looks just great. It's got to add torsional rigidity to the chassis. I like the placement for the safety harnesses. How many hours did that take you?
It appears you fab'd the roll bar too. Normally I don't like the look of the double loop but that thing looks just great. It's got to add torsional rigidity to the chassis. I like the placement for the safety harnesses. How many hours did that take you?
bashby
Donation Time
Thank you!
The work I have seen on this site can "push" one to do better. It can also make you want to stop because you think it will never be good enough (afssanders...etal.)
Wipeout: The 2-1/4" tailpipe is 1-1/4" from the tire (looking at it from the side). Labor of love... or insanity oh ya love can drive you there too! the line is thin
Series6: The Rollbar took a couple of hours to work the idea then about 20 hours to build; should add rigidity I know it added weight ~2#/ft. of tubing and at 62# there is more of it than you would think.
The work I have seen on this site can "push" one to do better. It can also make you want to stop because you think it will never be good enough (afssanders...etal.)
Wipeout: The 2-1/4" tailpipe is 1-1/4" from the tire (looking at it from the side). Labor of love... or insanity oh ya love can drive you there too! the line is thin
Series6: The Rollbar took a couple of hours to work the idea then about 20 hours to build; should add rigidity I know it added weight ~2#/ft. of tubing and at 62# there is more of it than you would think.
The miracle of photography - your tire looks like it is closer to 1/4" instead of 1 1/4" away from the tire. Really, I figured it was perhaps 1/2" and you figured it was close enough to the center of the tire that it would clear.
As to John (afssanders) lets remember he is a pro and doing fantastic work, even when compared to other pros. Especially in light of the fact he is doing it with little input from others. I keep telling myself, "Yeah, it looks great, but what would it look like if he was a no talent bum like me"
Makes me feel a lot better.
Bill
As to John (afssanders) lets remember he is a pro and doing fantastic work, even when compared to other pros. Especially in light of the fact he is doing it with little input from others. I keep telling myself, "Yeah, it looks great, but what would it look like if he was a no talent bum like me"
Makes me feel a lot better.
Bill
Lovely work!
I happen to be doing something similar with my MkIV Vogue. I am using the KA24E motor (because I am a cheapskate).
I have a few key questions;
Would you mind sending me all of the pics you have taken of your conversion to help guide mine? (I am assuming a disc might be needed).
I happen to be doing something similar with my MkIV Vogue. I am using the KA24E motor (because I am a cheapskate).
I have a few key questions;
- How do you fit the steering link around the bellhousing?
- Where do you put the remote servo? (infact did you even keep the old brakes?)
- How do you make the speedo work? Isn't the Nissan a digital speed output?
Would you mind sending me all of the pics you have taken of your conversion to help guide mine? (I am assuming a disc might be needed).
bashby
Donation Time
Thank you
I had no clearance issues with the steering link but went with the Jose steering/cross-link just to make certain (Jim E might still have some if Jose does not) BTW my main bugaboo was fitting the turbo -exhaust manifold and turbocharger with the stock steering it was "interesting" ( as were the dual exhausts... I should be commited). I am not running a brake servo (using a 7/8" bore Wilwood master cylinder) I have gone with the Wilwood/Procraft front disc's. I am using a programmable Speedo and the Nissan CA's use the "normal" counts/rev type as they are late 80's design, just in kilometers which I will program out to MPH I could also use the Haltech P1000 ECM digital inputs or if this proves to be wrong I can always go with the method used with aftermarket cruise controls (magnets on drive shaft and a sensor). I have gigabytes of photos which I can mail to you on disk (I can change the resolution and fit them on a CD).
Lots of wiring to do too...
I had no clearance issues with the steering link but went with the Jose steering/cross-link just to make certain (Jim E might still have some if Jose does not) BTW my main bugaboo was fitting the turbo -exhaust manifold and turbocharger with the stock steering it was "interesting" ( as were the dual exhausts... I should be commited). I am not running a brake servo (using a 7/8" bore Wilwood master cylinder) I have gone with the Wilwood/Procraft front disc's. I am using a programmable Speedo and the Nissan CA's use the "normal" counts/rev type as they are late 80's design, just in kilometers which I will program out to MPH I could also use the Haltech P1000 ECM digital inputs or if this proves to be wrong I can always go with the method used with aftermarket cruise controls (magnets on drive shaft and a sensor). I have gigabytes of photos which I can mail to you on disk (I can change the resolution and fit them on a CD).
Lots of wiring to do too...
bashby
Donation Time
Tire-Tailpipe Clearance
Here is a better photo showing the tailpipe to tire clearance. All of the hard lines for the fuel, brake, oil coolers and clutch are done. The e-brake/parking brake is done. I made some rings and filler plugs (PO's drilled extra holes) for the dash. The photos are on webshots http://community.webshots.com/user/s5alpine
Here is a better photo showing the tailpipe to tire clearance. All of the hard lines for the fuel, brake, oil coolers and clutch are done. The e-brake/parking brake is done. I made some rings and filler plugs (PO's drilled extra holes) for the dash. The photos are on webshots http://community.webshots.com/user/s5alpine
bashby
Donation Time
Battery cables fuel sending unit
I had some 2/0 battery cables made (the + is 140" long) cost was very reasonable at ~$60 from Joshua at Bohannon Battery and delivery very fast (total time from order to doorstep was 5-days from FL and I reside in CO). I bought a custom (read scaled and calibrated to my tank and an Autometer 0-90 ohm fuel gauge) from Centroid ("Joel") I provided a physical measurement chart for each gallon and a photo for every 22 ohms using resistors of the gauge this was ~$120 (which in not too bad as a standard sending unit is ~$90) and delivery was 2-weeks. Should have the engine done in 3-weeks (waiting on the rods), crankshaft is balanced, solid lifters, forged pistons, 8,000 RPM should not be any issue (as stock was 7400) 2-months and she should be running! Lots and I mean lots of wiring...Finished stripped the undercoat off the car and will be painting the underside soon.
I had some 2/0 battery cables made (the + is 140" long) cost was very reasonable at ~$60 from Joshua at Bohannon Battery and delivery very fast (total time from order to doorstep was 5-days from FL and I reside in CO). I bought a custom (read scaled and calibrated to my tank and an Autometer 0-90 ohm fuel gauge) from Centroid ("Joel") I provided a physical measurement chart for each gallon and a photo for every 22 ohms using resistors of the gauge this was ~$120 (which in not too bad as a standard sending unit is ~$90) and delivery was 2-weeks. Should have the engine done in 3-weeks (waiting on the rods), crankshaft is balanced, solid lifters, forged pistons, 8,000 RPM should not be any issue (as stock was 7400) 2-months and she should be running! Lots and I mean lots of wiring...Finished stripped the undercoat off the car and will be painting the underside soon.
bashby
Donation Time
I had the car soda blasted, at least there will be no more surprises... the paint was over 0.015" thick and the Glasurit color came off in strips. The photos are on WebShots at:
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/573533795qiTiQI
The initial paint and body work is being done, no rust but she took a hard hit on the left-side and the PO was a sculptor (amongst other things).
The motor is still awaiting parts hope to have it done soon.
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/573533795qiTiQI
The initial paint and body work is being done, no rust but she took a hard hit on the left-side and the PO was a sculptor (amongst other things).
The motor is still awaiting parts hope to have it done soon.
bashby
Donation Time
All of the patch panels (from a Series 1) on the left front fender are welded-in. All weld-gun (dent puller) work is finished, the car has been seam sealed and the under-side painted with chassis black (Eastwood). She goes in for engine compartment, cockpit and trunk body color painting on Wednesday! Large expense and the Spies Hecker paint better come out superb as it is $876 for 3-quarts of basecoat!
I am still waiting for the head to be done...
Photos are on WebShots:
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/573533795qiTiQI
I am still waiting for the head to be done...
Photos are on WebShots:
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/573533795qiTiQI
Callasports
Donation Time
WOW. These well-executed modified Alpines are fantastic to look at and read about. Thanks for posting large # of pics for us to see and drool on the keyboard some... The complexity of integrating a turbo motor into this chassis is too much for me to comprehend, but I would imagine the reward of "surprising" newer and more $$ sports cars would be fun! Good Luck with finishing it up!
These well-executed modified Alpines are fantastic to look at and read about. Thanks for posting large # of pics for us to see and drool on the keyboard some... The complexity of integrating a turbo motor into this chassis is too much for me to comprehend, but I would imagine the reward of "surprising" newer and more $$ sports cars would be fun! Good Luck with finishing it up!
bashby
Donation Time
Thank you!
The body is back from initial paint and body. I have posted some more photos on WebShots. Had to order some additional parts for the head, coming in from Japan in 2-3 weeks. On to rebuilding the front/rear suspensions, cyphering the wiring and reinstalling the brake and fuel lines! Hope to have her back in for final paint and body by October ($$ and time permitting).
The body is back from initial paint and body. I have posted some more photos on WebShots. Had to order some additional parts for the head, coming in from Japan in 2-3 weeks. On to rebuilding the front/rear suspensions, cyphering the wiring and reinstalling the brake and fuel lines! Hope to have her back in for final paint and body by October ($$ and time permitting).
Bill, it's looking very good. How does it feel, knowing you've stuffed at least 10 pounds of mud into a 5 pound sack? I can tell you that feeling will multiply when you put it on the road. I have about 2/3's of the power you will have and it is great!
On an entirely different note, I recommend covering all that beautiful interior paint with Fatmat. Right now. That includes the trunk. It made a BIG difference in my car and the cost really is minimal, $80 including shipping. Considering cost and improvement, I have to rate Fatmat as one of the best deals you can get for an Alpine and I don't even have a radio!
Bill
On an entirely different note, I recommend covering all that beautiful interior paint with Fatmat. Right now. That includes the trunk. It made a BIG difference in my car and the cost really is minimal, $80 including shipping. Considering cost and improvement, I have to rate Fatmat as one of the best deals you can get for an Alpine and I don't even have a radio!
Bill
bashby
Donation Time
Thank you, a bit overwhelmed as to the tasks in-hand but, I did pre-fit everything so, there should be no issues.
I have a box of "Damplifier Pro" that I am planning om using (it is like Dynamat or Fatmat) to cover the floor of the car. Bill, in an answer to your question of 10 lbs of #$%^ in a 5 lb sack yes! especially where the engine bay is concerned. I am looking forward to being able to drive her again hopefully by the early fall.
I have a box of "Damplifier Pro" that I am planning om using (it is like Dynamat or Fatmat) to cover the floor of the car. Bill, in an answer to your question of 10 lbs of #$%^ in a 5 lb sack yes! especially where the engine bay is concerned. I am looking forward to being able to drive her again hopefully by the early fall.
bashby
Donation Time
I have had the hood louvered, this should help with cooling issues by not "presurrizing a box" these louvers are in the triangle formed by the firewall, cowl braces and inner fender.
The head work is done! Working on the turbo oil and cooling lines along with everything else. October is looking doable! I keep on telling myself that anyone and everyone can own a Porsche.
The head work is done! Working on the turbo oil and cooling lines along with everything else. October is looking doable! I keep on telling myself that anyone and everyone can own a Porsche.