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replacement front calipers for series V

G

Gary M

Donation Time
I recall reading a long time ago that you could bolt up 1976 capri front calipers to an alpine V. Is that correct? Are there any gotchas involved with that? If you need an adaptor to the brake hoses where can you get them?

I had a stuck caliper piston on the left front and rebuilding with stainless steel pistons etc. is about $150 and up for both calipers (the left front also needs rebuilding). I can get remanufactured capri calipers online for about $40 each, a considerable savings.

If I went with the capri calipers are there any preferred remanufacturers or are they all about the same?

What type pads should I use with these?

My car has a V6 conversion (unfortunately not V6 Jose's kit, done by the previous owner) with a firebird fuel injected V6, a T5 tranny, and a narrowed mustang II V8 rear end. I installed a pickup dual master cylinder with no boost and you could still lock up the wheels with a bit of foot pressure. The wheels are off a 86 thunderbird turbo coupe. The tires are Yokohama P185/70 R 14s. There should be room for larger brake calipers inside the wheel.
 
puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
I know the stainless route is more expensive, but really, in the end it's cheaper. If we were driving our cars every day it would be better, because the calipers would be more active and less likely to rust or seize up. But most of us don't put more than 2,000-4,000 miles per year on our cars, and that makes stainless really the best option. It's a once-and-done solution, and frankly as I get older I begin to really appreciate that!
 
bobw

bobw

Donation Time
I had my calipers rebuilt at a local brake shop. When I got them back, the passenger side was extended slightly and I couldn't get the brake pads around the disk. I couldn't budge the pistons and took them back to the shop. They spent about 15 minutes in the back and returned it with the piston fully retracted. I've installed them, and applying pressure to the pedal locks up the brakes and releasing pressure frees them up. Should I have been able to move the pistons, and should I assume these calipers aren't working correctly?

Also, from a posting on 5/11/09 dmitch2 (Dennis) reported replacing his calipers with 1976 Capri 2.8L calipers.

Bob W.
 
puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
I suspect they are fine. It's not unusual to have a tight piston on a new rebuild. To prevent this I use a special disc brake assembly lubricant on my rebuilds, but most shops just use brake fluid to lube the parts and it can sometime cause sticking. However, if they are releasing properly at this point, I wouldn't give it a second thought.
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
You know Bob,

This may be totally off the wall, but it sounds like your brake booster may be what´s locking up. I know that you didn´t say you worked on it, but it could just be a coincidence that it went out just when you did the rebuild. Usually, if the brakes stick, it isn´t both of them at the same time, unless the booster has the line pressure locked up. I would try to disconnect the booster and them try it again, to see if it still happens. The fact that you said that when you release the pressure, it loosens up, that gave me that idea.

Jose
 
bobw

bobw

Donation Time
Thanks Kevin,

I still don't have the engine running so all testing is with the car up on jack stands. I did get the stainless pistons, so if they work I should be good for a while.

Bob W.
 
bobw

bobw

Donation Time
V6 JOSE said:
You know Bob,

This may be totally off the wall, but it sounds like your brake booster may be what´s locking up. I know that you didn´t say you worked on it, but it could just be a coincidence that it went out just when you did the rebuild. Usually, if the brakes stick, it isn´t both of them at the same time, unless the booster has the line pressure locked up. I would try to disconnect the booster and them try it again, to see if it still happens. The fact that you said that when you release the pressure, it loosens up, that gave me that idea.

Jose
Click to expand...

Hi Jose,

The brakes weren't locked up. I had the calipers off and couldn't budge the pistons. I took both of them to the brake shop for rebuild, but they didn't retract the piston on the passenger side, and I still couldn't budge the piston. I wasn't sure they hadn't screwed something up. Maybe the originals were OK too, but I'm glad I have the SS pistons anyway. Best I can tell, pressure on the pedal stops the wheel from rotating, and releasing it releases the wheel. The phrase "locks up the brakes" may have been poorly chosen. :)

BTW, I've removed the brake booster and replaced the master cylinder with an early Series one. The booster was in the way and I don't have a good vacuum source to run it. (13B rotary conversion.)

Bob W.
 
thill35803

thill35803

Platinum Level Sponsor
Capri Calipers

I also have the Capri calipers. The two differences I notices between the Capri and Alpine calipers are the mounting holes are larger on the Capri piece and it has a metric fluid inlet.

Tom Hill
 
S

sunbeam39

Donation Time
Other applications

Does anyone have an idea of aftermarket or other manufacturers (GM/Ford) that would fit a series 1?
 
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