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Now I'm in for it.

belmateo

Gold Level Sponsor
Have you set your pinion angle yet? You can use a wedge or small lowering block to gain some clearance if needed.
 

Aladin Sane

Diamond Level Sponsor
So the clearance problem I was worried about before evaporated once I got the new ubolts installed and tightened down. I will have to add some wheel spacers (as Dan R foretold) as the outboard edge of the caliper is very close to the back side of the wheel.20230318_142332.jpg

I do really like the way the rotors and calipers peak out from behind these minilites. Going to rear discs is going to be one of my favorite updates, both for performance and appearance.20230318_142401.jpg
Since I was at a stopping point on the rear end, and I just ordered a new decal for the heater control bezel, I took the bezel off the old plastic dash. I sanded any rust off the black insert and repainted it flat black. I polished the chrome frame. Once I get the decal, I will apply it to the insert and mount the whole assembly in my burl wood dash.
20230320_123759.jpg
 
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Aladin Sane

Diamond Level Sponsor
My 12mm wheel spacers arrived today. It's hard to tell from a pic, but I now have plenty of space between the calipers and the wheels.20230321_133209.jpg
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Brian, Use an open end lugnut to verify full thread engagement. The Jeep axle like the stock axle is a little narrower than the front track so probably fills the wheelwell better.
 

Aladin Sane

Diamond Level Sponsor
Well that didn't go so well. I am only getting about half a lug nuts worth of threads engaged because of the rotors and wheel spacers. I need to beat out the new wheel studs my fab guy pressed into the axles and get some longer ones. On the plus side, I did go ahead and replace my panasport hub caps (of which I had only 3) with these. I got some blank domed caps that fit the opening, and applied some metal decals I got from a guy in Portugal over ebay.
20230321_190733[1].jpg
 

Aladin Sane

Diamond Level Sponsor
While waiting for new studs to arrive, today I test fit the carpet for the first time. I think I picked just the right color. Looks like i may need to fiddle with the accelerator pedal placement a bit. Very tough to get the trans cover carpet in behind the pedal, and I won't want that binding up when in use. The pedal is not stock in any way. Once I got the carpet laid out in the cockpit, I thought I would like a look at the seats and console on top of it. I am really liking the combination. Adding the rest of the upholstery will really add to it. I am very excited to get my wood dash and wheel installed. I had the lower dash pad and a radio console finished in the same vinyl as the seats.

20230326_112507.jpg20230326_112524.jpg20230326_112542.jpg
 
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Aladin Sane

Diamond Level Sponsor
The carpets are from Sunbeam Specialties. I think I bought them two years ago, before I knew how long the painting would take.

At the same time, I bought a full vinyl package for the interior. It all matches the seat color
 
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Toyanvil

Gold Level Sponsor
It's looking GREAT. The ebrake levers look good to me, Two things, when the car is on the ground the leaf spring will be flat and the levers pull up away from the spring. This is what I did to use the Sunbeam ebrake lever, sorry, not a good picture of the cables.
i-WhNkgsg-XL.jpg

i-F5LvWdV-XL.jpg

I bought SS bulk line and made my lines. A Wilwood proportioning valve works great and has a brake light switch built in, it also has one inlet and two outlets for the front brakes that makes running the brake lines easy.
i-mMHzGLq-XL.jpg
 

Aladin Sane

Diamond Level Sponsor
Funny you should mention the ebrake. I found the bolts and spacers in my stash of sunbeam nuts and bolts. I cleaned up the brake handle and painted it black. I will be using the exact same cable set up as in your picture.

I like the look of your proportioning valve. I will have to look into that.
 
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Aladin Sane

Diamond Level Sponsor
It's looking GREAT. The ebrake levers look good to me, Two things, when the car is on the ground the leaf spring will be flat and the levers pull up away from the spring. This is what I did to use the Sunbeam ebrake lever, sorry, not a good picture of the cables.
i-WhNkgsg-XL.jpg

i-F5LvWdV-XL.jpg

I bought SS bulk line and made my lines. A Wilwood proportioning valve works great and has a brake light switch built in, it also has one inlet and two outlets for the front brakes that makes running the brake lines easy.
i-mMHzGLq-XL.jpg
Hey John, what master cylinder did you use?
 

Toyanvil

Gold Level Sponsor
It's from a 1975 B1600 Mazda pickup, not sure if it will clear a V6 valve cover. It was cheap on Rockauto.
i-3Hx6jKv-XL.jpg
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I would say it is worth a try. The most usual problem is port/brake line clearance. Not a problem with this cylinder. But that does not mean it will clear everything. On a good day, the world of big engines in Alpines is ruled in quarter inches.
Bill
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Ford Courier is the same. 3/4". Tigers have used it, but their master is moved over about where the clutch master is in a Alpine
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
It appears your master is moved over too. On the other side of the steering column.
 

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