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Ignition Problems

Durhamguy

Platinum Level Sponsor
Can’t get car started. Changed ignition components due to hard starting, eratic running, stalling issues dating back to when I purchased the car in May 2021. Car is positive ground, running Alpine Innovations Weber kit.

New ignition components added are:
Coil, Lucas Sports DB110 Sports 1.5 ohm
Ballast 1.6 ohm
Distributor Cap DB106 for 25D4 dizzy
HT leads, rotor, LT lead, condenser, points

First Phase Changed coil, ballast, Dizzy Cap, rotor. Car started, run much better. No problem with subsequent restarts. Spark plugs were new as of May 2022, gap to spec. Second phase Changed points, condenser, LT lead. Cannot get it started. Also, coil readings seem erratic.

Firing order is set as 1342 counter clockwise. n01 nearest Rad, No.4 nearest firewall.

Tests done

Bulb test (ignition turned on) on ballast input (yellow wire) shone bright. Test on exit ballast terminal dimmed bulb, “-“ coil terminal bulb dimmed. So have power flowing through ballast to “-“ coil terminal.

Put headlights on, cranked engine, minimal dimming.

Condenser seems viable, tested volts and resistance. Takes a charge and discharges.

No spark on HT lead nor with spark plug test.

Points set to spec and open and close as expected, condenser and LT isolated with plastic washers. Closed 12.2v / open 1.98v

Coil
Primary resistance 1.6 ohms confirmed
Secondary resistance 6,000 ohms
No spark??
Ballast 1.9 ohm confirmed

Spent 3 days doing tests, switching back and forth old components. I often get different readings when testing. Even though the car started with the first phase changes, I am thinking the issue is related to the coil.

Any help anyone can give me will be greatly appreciated. I can added pictures if I know what you want to see.
 

Filister

Gold Level Sponsor
It might be worth checking your condenser, points connection again. On more than one occasion I've messed up the insulator, condenser stack on the points. This results in a no fire situation. Especially considering when it stopped firing.
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
No spark sounds like coil or distributor.

Did you try swapping in the old coil, or was it no good?

Did you try swapping in the old points, condenser, and LT lead (at the same time)?

Mike
 

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
Check your wiring connection where the ht lead & the condenser connect with the points.
If they're not insulated they'll short out and you won't get any spark. Just make sure they're
isolated from the metal post, and that your nut on top is tight.
 

Durhamguy

Platinum Level Sponsor
The old coil seem okay as I tested by attaching to new ballast and had power on both terminals, but it is a screw cap and new Dist Cap is push in. I tested and swapped old rotor, condenser and LT at same time but not points. For the spark, I detached the HT lead from Dist and tested for a spark against chassis and used a spark plug too but no spark either way. I guess I can connect old coil and use alligators clips to connect through the new Dist HT. I will try that in the morning as well as switching everything back to old stuff. The battery is fully charged as I had it on a battery tender from Saturday afternoon to top it up.

I will pay special attention to the connection on the post for the condenser, LT and points to ensure isolation. Thanks guys.
 

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
distributor 002A.jpg David,

Try to make sure these two wires are not broken inside the insulation. Rare, but sometimes happens.

Good luck,
 

beamdream

Gold Level Sponsor
Assuming you haven't had the distributor out ?

With ignition turned on, distributor cap off, can you get a spark at the points ?
 

Durhamguy

Platinum Level Sponsor
No distributor has not been taken out.

I get a spark at the points with cap off, ignition on. This is using new points, new condenser and new LT lead. Would this indicate a coil issue then??

The connection on points, condenser and LT were good but tighten nut right down.

On black earth insulated wire, I did a continuity test with my multimeter and it it is good for conductivity.

Wire from ballast to coil has good continuity as well.
 

ernestovumbles

Gold Level Sponsor
I had a hairline crack on my rotor..
The last step of several ignition/non-start related issues I had a couple years ago.

I believe you said you have a new one..
I could barely see the crack on my broken one, difficult to track down, but cheap to fix.


50261087486_7aba22536c_b.jpg
 

Durhamguy

Platinum Level Sponsor
Eureka, got her started. I reconnected the old coil using crocodile clips to the new push-on HT lead, new points, condenser, LT. Started first time, very strongly. Warmed her up and started her up a few more times. I will buy a new push-on coil locally.

Thanks for all your input and support guys. I will watch Tim's video. Hope I might see some of you at United 39 in Oakville next month.

Cheers

David
 

beamdream

Gold Level Sponsor
Eureka, got her started. I reconnected the old coil using crocodile clips to the new push-on HT lead, new points, condenser, LT. Started first time, very strongly. Warmed her up and started her up a few more times. I will buy a new push-on coil locally.

Thanks for all your input and support guys. I will watch Tim's video. Hope I might see some of you at United 39 in Oakville next month.

Cheers

David

Well done
 
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