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Volvo transmission

bulldurham

Platinum Level Sponsor
How about the use of a Volvo clutch cable, eliminating the slave. A fairly easy install and , of course, adjustable.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
But first, how about some safety? A gang of two NC/NO switches. One turns on the backup light when in reverse, the other opens the O.D. circuit when in reverse. Overdrive will be available in any froward gear. O.D. circuit will employ solenoid circuitry, back up lights will be LED, no need for switch protection.
BillIMG_8225.JPG
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
How about the use of a Volvo clutch cable, eliminating the slave. A fairly easy install and , of course, adjustable.
But I would still have the alignment issue. Don't have any Volvo clutch cable or parts, but do have a clutch master cylinder. Is the Alpine pedal easily adapted to the "pull" configuration? As near as I can tell (which is not much) the pedal on this car does not have any components that move toward the driver (pull action) when engaging.
Bill
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Bill arent the arrow series cars manifolds a 10° slant... Is the motor 5° and the manifolds 10 to face carbs slightly upward?
 

bulldurham

Platinum Level Sponsor
I have the cable directly attached to the top of the Alpine clutch pedal w/ a pin { not modified }. The cable goes thru the firewall high up and w/ a
slow bend to the throw out arm. For a slave cylinder I can see a 5* angle being a issue, but for a cable , I don't think it is a problem.
On the trans end, Volvo, there is a stop where the nuts are placed on the cable to adjust it. I think there is a possibility of using that mount to align the cable
if you think that 5* would cause wear on the cable or release bearing
. Since I am using both Volvo engine and trans it was not a concern.
I would get you a picture of the pedal connection but it is high up and hidden by the cavity it sits in.
 

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bill,

If the Volvo uses a pull action for the clutch, have you considered a "pull slave" like the V6 guys use?

Making the mount for that slave system should allow the possibility to work out your alignment and operation a bit easier.

No need to reinvent the wheel. ;)

Don
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bill,

If the Volvo uses a pull action for the clutch, have you considered a "pull slave" like the V6 guys use?

Making the mount for that slave system should allow the possibility to work out your alignment and operation a bit easier.

No need to reinvent the wheel. ;)

Don
Agreed. There are a couple of pull cylinders under consideration. While the cable might accommodate the misalignment better than a cylinder, "doing" the clutch pedal and firewall mod would be no picnic. The layout of the '69 is such that I cannot even see the top of the clutch pedal and I do not want to modify the body.

Bill
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
A co-axially mounted Hydraulic Throw-Out Bearing (HTOB) eliminates all of the linkage and alignment issues. A master cylinder on one end and a direct acting slave cylinder on the other end with a hydraulic line in between.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
A co-axially mounted Hydraulic Throw-Out Bearing (HTOB) eliminates all of the linkage and alignment issues. A master cylinder on one end and a direct acting slave cylinder on the other end with a hydraulic line in between.
And whatever is necessary to make it all work. Nothing to it, just ask DanR.
Bill
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bill arent the arrow series cars manifolds a 10° slant... Is the motor 5° and the manifolds 10 to face carbs slightly upward?
No clue. All I can say is that using the top two bell housing bolts as locators, my measurement found a 5 degree list, which I duplicated as best I could. The carb does not appear to be level, but there is precious little available to measure. Appearances can be deceiving.
Bill
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Ordered a Speedway Motors pull slave cylinder. Chose this particular model because it was presented as being short, about a 4" long body. Here it is mounted and ready to go. I used the original Alpine slave mounts, but not in the fashion Lord Rootes intended. The cylinder is shown in the extended position. Two more items to do, the pilot bushing adapter sleeve and the gearshift knob.
IMG_8226.JPG
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Here is the finished unit, ready for installation, which will take place in late October or early November. The a close up of the shift knob is included. Note the O.D. shift switch. I have no idea what kind of wood it is made of. Shortly after we moved to Connersville, Barb needed wood for a Scout project. There was a lot of small trees/large branches about four inches in diameter. I picked up several, this was cut from the only survivor. It is well dried, having spent almost fifteen years languishing in the climate controlled basement. Also a pic of the clutch slave. Purdy little thang.IMG_8240.JPG
IMG_8233.JPG IMG_8235.JPG
 

Shannon Boal

Platinum Level Sponsor
Having thought about an adapter plate a little more, I'd better add that it would be a good idea to keep the hand crank handy!

Meanwhile, I'm making slow progress. Managed to locate the center of the Alpine Alpine bell at the front of the housing. This was a mechanlcal process, projecting a point out from the centering hole that aligns the bell with the transmission. Done mostly with milling machine setup tools. These are very precise items. Maybe not dinensionally, but are in squareness and parallel. Measuring from my located center to the bolt holes is not reassuring. .There is considerable variation, as if the holes were not accurately located at the factory. A particular instance: Holes A,B,C are adjacent to each other. A and C measure measure the same, B is way off. Also, the starter bolt holes are not located the same, not even with each other. I see no way that all this be the result of my center location, so I'm proceeding with the project.

Next up, sawing the bell housings in two. Yesterday I made an arbor to mount a plain, carpenters 7 1/4" carbide toothed saw blade in my mill. Mounting the bells on the mill should be s simple, "plop it down, bolt it in place and start sawing." operation. Just hole ti works out that way. That should be worth a picture or two.

Bill
I really like the way you sawed these! How do you figure to align the center of Volvo input with Alpine crankshaft? Does the Alpine Bell Housing have dowel pins to keep it in place?
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Yes, sawing the bell housings was a delightful piece of cake. For once, nothing went wrong and everything went right.
Using the transmission locating hole at the rear of the Alpine bell, I was able to fab and locate a dummy input shaft. Using the dummy as a guide, I located the center of the Alpine bell and marked it, using scrap steel bolted across the front of the bell. Using the same technique, I was able to simulate the Volvo input shaft. So I just placed the Volvo section with the fake input shaft installed onto the Alpine bell with crankshaft center mark. Aligned the fake input shaft over the fake crankshaft center, clamped the snot out of it and hauled it to the welder.

The Alpine bell has nothing other than installation bolts to center it. The really hard part is yet to come, properly aligning the Volvo input shaft with the Alpine crankshaft. As near as I can tell, the tranny will have to be indicated in, then remove the transmission and indicator stuff, install the clutch stuff and reinstall the transmission it the proper location. Easy enough to say, we'll see how easy it is to do.

Ay 80 and counting, the entire installation routine is looking very formitable. Barb says to declare a transmission installation party and invite the boys to attend. Sounds good to me.

Bill
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Don't know. Whatever 20 Hz with the belt in the lowest speed setting gives. Not enough traction in the lowest. If I lowered the Hz, the mill would tend to stall. It was pretty fast, the blade is 7 1/4". Luckily, aluminum and carbide teeth make for a speed non-sensitive combo. I understand that some use the 7 1/4" blades in standard skilsaws to cut aluminum. Not good. All I had to do was stand clear of the chips.
Bill
 
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