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puzzled trying to remove dashboard from SV

hopsedge

Platinum Level Sponsor
1967 SV. I am removing the dashboard to access all the gauge wiring. I am referring only to the vertical face of the dash that holds all the gauges, switches, etc.; not the horizontal top padded part that abuts the bottom of the windshield.

All bolts are removed, top & bottom covers of the steering column are removed, and there is slack in the main harness. I've disconnect everything off the main harness that could keep the dasj from pulling free a few inches. But I cannot get this bugger to come out!

Do I have to remove the glove box? It seems that I do, b/c I cannot tilt the dash enough to clear the top pad before the bottom left "ear" of the dash binds against the left side of the steering column. I am afraid if I torque/spin the dash any more, I'm going to mess it up, or rip the glove box off. There are two pins on the left side of the glove box that seem to hold the glove box to the dash. The top one has already pulled free, but the bottom one is holding firm. I don't think they are bolts with nuts, but I have not so far been able to pop it loose.

Please help!
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
I don't think they are bolts with nuts, but I have not so far been able to pop it loose.
It has been a while since I did this, but I think you do need to remove the glove box. The pins are in the bakelite surround and held on with push nuts, which can be a real PITA to remove, especially if they are rusted on. I have had to bend them to get them off, but fortunately they are easily replaced. But, be very careful with the surround, as it is brittle and easily broken.
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
One more thought: have you removed the cables that connect to the heater controls? They are easily missed.
 

hopsedge

Platinum Level Sponsor
One more thought: have you removed the cables that connect to the heater controls? They are easily missed.
Thank you, A1789. It’s a little reassuring that the glove box has to come off b/c I can’t think of what else to do.

Yes, I have freed the heater controls.
 

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
Thank you, A1789. It’s a little reassuring that the glove box has to come off b/c I can’t think of what else to do. Yes, I have freed the heater controls.

hopsedge,

Only because I didn't see a previous mention - speedometer cable and manual choke control cable.

Good luck,
 

Tim R

Silver Level Sponsor
Have you undone the oil gauge pipe and pulled the warning lights free from their cases??
Tim R
 

hopsedge

Platinum Level Sponsor
Hey everyone, thanks for all of the input. Yes, I had removed the speedo cable and slackened the choke cable. I had also undone the oil gauge pipe. I eventually had to not only remove the glove box, but also many of the gauges themselves in order to clear the upper dash pad. I had to remove the voltmeter (formerly ammeter), tach and speedometer. The dash is free now, and that's a good thing. I wish, however, that I didn't have to remove so many of the gauges to get it out; makes me nervous about putting it all back together. I had hoped that I would be able to install all the new wiring with the dash out, but gauges in place, and then fit the whole newly wired-up dash back in. Not sure that it's going to work out that way, considering the PITA it was to remove the dash in the first place. But that's a forum topic for another day...
 

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
It's actually easier to rewire with the gauges out. You can route the wires to where they go and makes
the hookups easierIMG_0850.JPG
 

mikephillips

Donation Time
I've generally found it necessary to remove the lower part of the steering column mount and to loose the column bolts in the engine compartment so that it can move downwards a couple inches to more easily remove a dash.

As for rewiring, while the dash is out, put all the switches on the harness first, that should leave only the gauge connections. Push then through the openings and connect the gauges. Then the only things you're lying on your back to do is attach the retaining brackets and thumb screws. The switches can be pushed through while sitting upright to replace the retaining rings.
 

Tim R

Silver Level Sponsor
This video is primarily about installing a more modern wiring set up but the principles are the same even if you want to keep the standard set up, it might be of use to you.
In the past we have installed the wiring in various ways. People often have their preferred way of doing this. So long as you have the heater cables correctly routed and everything properly supported and secure it doesn't really matter. A mistake that people often make is having the loom just laying loose across the dashboard stays. That is asking for future problems as the loom will vibrate and eventually the covering will wear through. If you secure it tightly so that it can't move (but leave enough slack on individual wires to replace bulbs etc) you will save yourself a lot of trouble. We put multiple fuses into the system and on our own cars we put illuminated fuses under the bonnet, wherever you locate them, they need to be readily accessible.

Tim R



 

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