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Better Instrument Bulbs

fastfrontier17

fastfrontier17

Donation Time
Hi,

I was searching for a brighter bulb for my gauges. Someone recommended the #1449 as it's 3 watts (listed at 2.8 2.8), but I wanted to know if anyone has tried the #430 which is listed as 3.5 watts. I'm not an expert on the dimensions required in our gauges, but the 430 appears to be slightly fatter and taller. Does anyone know have experience with these or know if the diameter and length will work?


#1449 Miniature Bulb E10 Base - 14.0 Volt .20 Amp 2.8 Watt G-31/2, Miniature Screw (E10) Base 2.0 MSCP, C-2V Filament Design. 0.94" (23.70mm) Maximum Overall Length (M.O.L.). 0.46" (11.7mm) Maximum Outer Diameter (M.O.D.). 0.72" (18.3mm) Light Center Length (L.C.L.). 250 Average Rated Hours.

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#430 Miniature Bulb E10 Base - 14 Volt 0.25 Amp 3.5 Watt G-4 1/2 Miniature Screw (E10) Base, C-2R Filament Design. 1.06" (26.90mm) Maximum Overall Length (M.O.L.), 0.55" (14mm) Maximum Outer Diameter (M.O.D.), 0.72" (18.30mm) Light Center Length (L.C.L.). 250 Average Rated Hours.

https://www.bulbtown.com/1449_Miniature_Bulb_E10_Base_p/eiko1449.htm
https://www.bulbtown.com/430_Miniature_Bulb_E10_Base_p/430.htm

 

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Silver Creek Sunbeam

Silver Creek Sunbeam

Gold Level Sponsor
fastfrontier17 said:
I've considered LED lights, but I do like the warm glow of the incandescent bulbs. Which bulb color did you go with?
Click to expand...
I used the cool white because I do not believe warm white was an option at the time. I like the way mine look but if they had been available would have probably gone with the warm white.
They make a HUGE difference. I also used his exterior and headlight kit.
 
jumpinjan

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
Unlike incandescent lamps that fail as an open circuit, LED's can fail and short the circuit.
Jan
 
Pete S.

Pete S.

Bronze Level Sponsor
loose_electron said:
True - But with every LED there is also a series resistor, or a transistor based current source. With a LED light on 12V there is also multiple LEDs in series in addition to the series resistor or current source.
Click to expand...

So, are you saying we can use LED lamps - specifically tail/brake LED "bulbs" like those sold on Amazon without reasonable fear of shorts and burned wires?
 
loose_electron

loose_electron

Donation Time
Pete S. said:
So, are you saying we can use LED lamps - specifically tail/brake LED "bulbs" like those sold on Amazon without reasonable fear of shorts and burned wires?
Click to expand...

Yes - My 63 S2 is all LED lights. I also have a new wiring harness (Pete's) with a better thought out fuse strategy.

As a matter of best practices there should always be a fuse upstream from any live circuit.

When a LED fails in short out mode it is pretty resistive, and a LED setup for 12V is usually 3-5 LEDs in series, plus a current regulator (or resistor) - I don't see a situation where that is going to be a problem.

Replacements for double filament bulbs (1024 or 1057, I forget which) have some older versions that turned both sides on when you turned one side on. Plug it in try it out. I think those are largely gone.
 
Last edited:
Pete S.

Pete S.

Bronze Level Sponsor
loose_electron said:
Yes - My 63 S2 is all LED lights. I also have a new wiring harness (Pete's) with a better thought out fuse strategy.

As a matter of best practices there should always be a fuse upstream from any live circuit.

When a LED fails in short out mode it is pretty resistive, and a LED setup for 12V is usually 3-5 LEDs in series, plus a current regulator (or resistor) - I don't see a situation where that is going to be a problem.

Replacements for double filament bulbs (1024 or 1057, I forget which) have some older versions that turned both sides on when you turned one side on. Plug it in try it out. I think those are largely gone.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much, I think I will.
 
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