• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

Engine rebuild

AlsPine

Donation Time
The catalog says that the freeze plugs comes as a set, they are brass.
You may be able to get the freeze plugs at your local parts store, but most likely they would be steel.
 

AlsPine

Donation Time
Having the machine shop hot tank the block does a nice job cleaning everything out.
But with hot tanking the block, it will damage the cam bearings, so they will need to be replaced.
You can have them change them out after the hot tank.
SS has replacement cam bearings.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
If you have the block apart run some wire brushes down the coolant passages.. Especially around #4 the amount of casting sand and build up of crud is a real issue up the back.
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
Here are some pictures of the head after some cleaning.
Exhaust valves need replaced. I may keep the inlets and reconsider a full head work when budget allows it.
Springs read 2mm shorter than the service manual at free length. Should replace or is that normal?
Although cylinders measured in within 0.0025, new std pistons are 3. 2106.
So I'm leaning for a rebore. At $30 per cylinder is a good investment.
The crankshaft journals and the crank pins journals measured great. I'll just get new bearings for the piece of mind.
Camshaft will go out for regrind. Can I have that custom profile that everyone is talking about with the 1600cc?
 

Attachments

  • 20210928_125320.jpg
    20210928_125320.jpg
    318.8 KB · Views: 48
  • 20210924_183519.jpg
    20210924_183519.jpg
    485.4 KB · Views: 48

absunbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
The machine shop I use which is between Milwaukee & Chicago sends the block & heads out to be thermal cleaned (Ampro). If you have one near you i recommend it highly. Parts come out the same as they did from the foundry inside & out. Price was reasonable $35 for heads & $100 for blocks. Does not change them dimensionally. Gives you a good visual of any cracks or defects.
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
Updates. The engine shop called this morning saying that all is good except the crankshaft is worn in the front (timing side).
He said he couldn't measure because there is a groove in it.
I looked at my notes and I was able to measure 1 thou once I found a nice spot where to measure.
He said that he does not know where the pulley sits so he can't be more useful and he doesn't know the engine well.

What do you guys think? Any experience with something similar?
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
Here is a couple of pictures of the crankshaft. I don't have it with me right now to take a better picture
 

Attachments

  • 20210924_220727.jpg
    20210924_220727.jpg
    402.5 KB · Views: 53
  • 20210914_215739.jpg
    20210914_215739.jpg
    339.9 KB · Views: 52

Tim R

Silver Level Sponsor
These two videos may be of use to you. One comment I would make is that the 1592 and 1725 engines are very different beasts. The 1592 is much freer revving and in my opinion more fun ( I have Alpines with both).






 

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Here is a couple of pictures of the crankshaft. I don't have it with me right now to take a better picture
It's a bit hard to judge the condition of your crankshaft only by that picture. If it's worn where the pulley sits, it's bad news. No stainless collar sleeve can be used there because the woodruff key is in the way. Perhaps laser rewelding and grind down would help, but not simple...
 
Last edited:

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
Seems like I need a new crankshaft or give a new grind to mine. I can't find anyone locally. Do you guys have any contact?
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
Little question. I sent some engine parts to get powder coated and I specifically asked to not blast or paint the inside of the oil pan. Unfortunately they blasted the inside. I rinsed a few times and more with soapy water, rubber malled a bit here and there to have sand detaching, compressed air, air and lacquer thinner...
I cannot get rid of all of it.
Should give up and buy a used unmolested oil pan?
 

bobbo

Gold Level Sponsor
Had the same issue with mine. Washed , power washed, could not get the grit out. Realized with the aluminum finned pan The baffle is screwed in so it became an easy fix after the baffle was out. If the baffle in the steel pan cant be removed, you will never know how much sand is left.
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
Had the same issue with mine. Washed , power washed, could not get the grit out. Realized with the aluminum finned pan The baffle is screwed in so it became an easy fix after the baffle was out. If the baffle in the steel pan cant be removed, you will never know how much sand is left.
Where do you get those aluminum pans? They look really nice
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Where do you get those aluminum pans? They look really nice
If you get the alloy pans ( came on fastback Alpines in usa and on h120, GLS and holbay motor cars in UK) you need the 2 special long bolts fot the front.
You also need to make sure the baffle is still in it as they were bolted in and often are missing.
Also to drain the oil you need to jack one side if the car as the sump plug was set for a 10° canted motor.

Tbey are also quite heavy...
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
BTW, I didn't post a picture or update in a while. Here is the block back from the engine shop. I painted it with Hirsch enamel and primer. I know they didn't come in red, but I like it!
 

Attachments

  • 20220425_205427.jpg
    20220425_205427.jpg
    271 KB · Views: 50

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
A question about the oil scraper. It is made of 3 parts: the oil control ring and 2 rings. I guess the 2 rings go top and bottom of the springy scraper. But the oil control ring is too long. It goes over itself about 5mm. I guess it needs to be trimmed but how much? Should I leave a gap? What's the best way/tool to cut it?
 

Attachments

  • 20220430_185406.jpg
    20220430_185406.jpg
    135.9 KB · Views: 29
  • 20220430_185348.jpg
    20220430_185348.jpg
    177.1 KB · Views: 28

spmdr

Diamond Level Sponsor
The oil ring should Not need mods.
The expander IS over sized.
That is normal.
 

smashbeat

Silver Level Sponsor
I gapped first and second ring.
I did not gap the 2 rings that form the oil scraper assembly, as I read that is usually not necessary. I took my time to assemble them properly and assured that the rings were not wedging the control springy ring.
I put new main bearings, trued the front bearing and verified that the crank was spinning well.
I put the rings gaps in the right spots and drive each piston home with the tool.
Every piston added was making the crank harder to turn.
Once all torqued down I have the feeling that it spins a bit tight. It this normal?
I cannot spin the crank without putting the balancer on and using 2 hands.
Maybe my engine was really tired before rebuild, but I remember a lot more clearance and play by wiggling the pistons against the bore.

Any thoughts?
 

Attachments

  • 20220502_170512.jpg
    20220502_170512.jpg
    329.8 KB · Views: 33

junkman

Gold Level Sponsor
That looks very dry for a freshly assembled short block. Generally we dump upwards of a quart of clean motor oil in the cylinders during assembly. I also have started using Engine Assembly Grease on the bearings.
 
Top