Charles Johns
Donation Time
Bill, it still hurts to see your Alpine bent, as it is the only one I have driven. I did not notice any steering problems with yours but it was a rather short drive. Do you plan to use a rack?
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Enjoy.
DuraPine II
- Thread starter Bill Blue
- Start date
Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
Don,
I think you will find that steering arm is for an early Series Alpine with a "lower kingpin" front suspension.
husky drvr
Platinum Level Sponsor
You're probably correct. I didn't have a quick way to check.
Yes. It had been installed on the car, unfortunately not a good installation. I decided to go after the rack and pinion steering for several reasons. It will allow the engine to set almost upright which improves oil level. Also straightens out the gear shifter and drive train. It should also provide for lower effort steering so I wont need the electric power steering.
Bill
Problems, problems. After struggling to locate the R&P high enough, I noticed the instructions for installing the MG arms say the bolts go on top. I thought that was good news. However, flipping the arm so the rod end is on the bottom creates a misalignment of over 2" at mid suspension travel. With the rod on the top, it is about 3/4". I don't like 3/4" but prefer it over 2".
All the steering rod components are 1/2-20, right hand thread. So how does one set toe? The rods connecting the steering unit to the arms are bent, meaning the minimum adjustment is one turn or almost a sixteenth of an inch on one side, which means an eighth overall. Should the rods be straightened so they are free to rotate?
Bill
All the steering rod components are 1/2-20, right hand thread. So how does one set toe? The rods connecting the steering unit to the arms are bent, meaning the minimum adjustment is one turn or almost a sixteenth of an inch on one side, which means an eighth overall. Should the rods be straightened so they are free to rotate?
Bill
Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
Bill,
I am having trouble visualizing the steering arm / tie-rod / lower A-arm misalignment issue. Any chance of a picture?
If you straighten the tie-rods, the tie-rod to rack joints will bind up. Not an issue with the rack in the proper location, but a big problem when the rack is way too far forward which is unavoidable with the "Tiger configuration".
260Alpine
Silver Level Sponsor
Bill, The MGB rack tie rods should be 9/16"-18 one left thread, one right thread. I've only seen one without bent tie rods and I tried Emailing the guy and he never answered. Maybe he clearanced the inner joint to allow more travel. You have to remove the sheetmetal mounts off of the crossmember. Maybe notch the crossmember back to the front mount tab. I'll attach a picture of the Tiger crossmember and a link to the one without the bent tie rods.
http://www.britishv8.org/Other/BillyJoOlinyk.htm
http://www.britishv8.org/Other/BillyJoOlinyk.htm
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Barry, I'll get some pictures up. It will take a while. Its like pulling teeth from a disgruntled wildcat. It can be done, but barely, as we don't understand the process of loading pics into the computer.
Jim, I double checked. Everything is right hand thread. The threads in the rod ends measure .562". Threads on the steering rods, .530. He threaded short threaded rods into the rod ends and used a 3" long connecting nut to hold everything together. Any male end will thread into any nut opening.
Bill
Jim, I double checked. Everything is right hand thread. The threads in the rod ends measure .562". Threads on the steering rods, .530. He threaded short threaded rods into the rod ends and used a 3" long connecting nut to hold everything together. Any male end will thread into any nut opening.
Bill
Any ideas how I rig up a turnbuckle gizmo for adjusting toe?
Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
QA1 (and probably others) sell a gizmo that looks like the "3" adapters", but is reverse threaded (1/2-20 left-hand male and 1/2-20 right-hand female) to provide a "turnbuckle" function. You would need tie-rod joints with 1/2-20 left-hand threads.
The setup: The R&P is setting level with 1/8" between the bellows and frame. Everything is level. Suspension is in full droop. 1 1/8" difference (center to center) between the R&P steering rod and the short 9/16" rod threaded into the rod end. Assuming the car travels at mid suspension travel, with 4" between bump stops, the rod end will be 7/8" above the R&P center.Second photo. You can see how he has attached everything together. The connector nut is threaded right hand both ends. Oh yes, the stock engine mounts have been removed.
Bill
Would also need 1/2" 20 threads on the steering rods. Doing that would be a treat. Maybe start out with an adjustable 1/2 - die at max diameter and work down. How would the 9/16" - 18 threads on the R&P steering rods play with 1/2" - 20 threads? If I could find a 9/16' -18 left hand tap I think I could make the stuff.
husky drvr
Platinum Level Sponsor
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Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
Bill,
What size threads do you need? QA1 does 3/8-24, 7/16-20, 1/2-20, 5/8-18 and 3/4-16. What they don't do is 9/16-18.
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Stormbringer
Donation Time
Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
Bill,
To minimize bump-steer, the tie-rods should be parallel with a line between the lower A-arm inner pivots and the center of the lower ball joint. Level does not matter. Rod end height above the R&P center does not matter. What matters is the tie-rods being parallel with the lower A-arm.
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