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1960 Hillman Minx Series IIIB Drophead Coupe

Hotrodhillman

Donation Time
I am the third owner of this vehicle. It was bought new Florida in 1961. My brother traded some work for it in 1981. I am going to update it with a 1725. A SAOCA member, who I will call "Finn," is helping. I want a Series V fully synchronized transmission, disc brakes and anti-roll bar(s). I would like your help, parts and advice. Should I post to the "Modified" section? I will start multiple threads.
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
Good question. The Modified forum is primarily focused on non-Rootes conversions. Normally, I’d suggest trying the Other Rootes forum, but I don’t know if you will get the traffic you need. Since everything you want to do sounds like stock SV Alpine, I’d recommend staying here for now. We can always move the conversation over if it veers too far off course.
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
I am the third owner of this vehicle. It was bought new Florida in 1961. My brother traded some work for it in 1981. I am going to update it with a 1725. A SAOCA member, who I will call "Finn," is helping. I want a Series V fully synchronized transmission, disc brakes and anti-roll bar(s). I would like your help, parts and advice. Should I post to the "Modified" section? I will start multiple threads.



Neat car!

The drawings in WSM-145, Section 16 (Body) indicate that the front of the Hillman Minx chassis has the same dimensions as a late Series Alpine chassis. It seems likely that a complete late Series Alpine front suspension crossmember (with disk brakes, anti-roll bar, ball joints, etc.) would be a bolt-in.

Would "Finn" be about a half-hour North in Corrales?
 
Last edited:

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
Neat car!

The drawings in WSM-145, Section 16 (Body) indicate that the front of the Hillman Minx chassis has the same dimensions as a late Series Alpine chassis. It seems likely that a complete late Series Alpine front suspension crossmember (with disk brakes, anti-roll bar, ball joints, etc.) would be a bolt-in.

Hotrodhillman and Barry,

The crossmember is not interchangeable due to the differing engine mount locations. The WSM drawing "dimension 10" showing the distance from crossmember mount to transmission mount locations is about 3.4 inches longer in the Alpine Than the Minx. The Hillman also uses different front engine mounts than the Alpine.

However, all the late Alpine suspension parts will bolt on and work with the Hillman crossmember. The only thing you should do is check the steering lock to lock travel rotations to make sure that when used with the Alpine components the steering box does not over rotate which could lead to total failure of the steering. The steering stops may need a bit of modification to prevent over rotation of the steering box.

The engine and trans install mostly pain free. I know the twin down draft Zeniths and the down draft two barrel manifolds will install and work. I don't think the side draft carbs will work without relocating the battery. The exhaust down pipes will have to be modified or remade to clear the crossmember due to the engine location being higher and forward of the Alpine location. The stock Alpine oil cooler wont work but an MGB style cooler is a possibility. Think that leaves carb linkage and electrical systems. One last thought, make sure the trans you use is not a very late trans with fine input and output shaft splines and you should be able to use your drive shaft.

Hope this helps and have fun,

Don
 

Hotrodhillman

Donation Time
Finn is everywhere. Check your rearview mirror.

The Dutchess currently has a 1492 cc motor with cast iron head. First gear is not synchronized. Can I use the bell housing, throw out bearing. fork, slave cylinder, clutch plate, pressure plate and flywheel with the 1725 and the late-model trans?

Anyone want the engine or transmission? You can drive it.

Anyone have the front-end parts Don named?
 

tony perrett

Gold Level Sponsor
A shame to mess with this lovely old survivor. Once everything is upgraded the original character of the car will be lost.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
A shame to mess with this lovely old survivor. Once everything is upgraded the original character of the car will be lost.
If he keeps all the parts with the car it can be returned to standard and the original king pin front end, motor and box will be preserved longer... A nice disx brake front end and and 1725 upgrade ( and trans.. Especially o/d) transforms its usability .... Just .02.. Keep everything you take off with the car.
 

ALC 68A

Donation Time
The Minx and the Rapier share the same basic body shell, so if you can find the parts, the cross member with disc brakes etc would be a straight swap.
 

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
Really not change a non synchro 1 st gear, must not have many stop signs to deal with. My Mrs. could wreck that type of trans in no time...
 

nsbluenose

Silver Level Sponsor
But sure to check your rear gear ratios as well. My Singer had 4.87 axle ratio, not good for highway cruising. I switched my 1494, non-synchro, 4.87 rear end set up to a 1966 1725 cc Alpine engine, 4 speed fully synchro and 3.89 rear axle. Everything bolted up, I used the 1494 motor mounts as they were higher than the Alpine mounts. Slight modifications to carb linkage, and slight modification to exhaust downpipes. Huge difference in drivability, able to use freeways; 60-65 mph. I drive the car a lot and long distances, in 2 weeks time I'm setting off on a 2700 mile return trip. I have done a similar type trip every year for the last 9 or 10 years. Couldn't do that trip with the original set up.
 

Hotrodhillman

Donation Time
The Dutchess has a three speed with non-synchro "EL" for steep driveways I guess. There is a 4.22 differential. It does not whine. It may be great. The Rockies are 4 hours north. My British car club likes to tour. I want power and four gears. But, I will keep it all so it can go back to the original character of the car. That is a good idea. I have all the bits.
 

nsbluenose

Silver Level Sponsor
I used the exhaust system that was on the car with the 1494 engine. Change I made was to get a Y-pipe to connect to the 2 pipe down pipes to the single exhaust.
 
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