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Hello-Trying to "Get Smart" on Alpine V

Mjbeanie

Bronze Level Sponsor
Hi, I am a relatively new member and have had my 67 Alpine Mark V for about a month. (I own another Agent 86 Car-the VW Karmann Ghia but that was a much simpler car.)

The Alpine is a California car with good paint and body, but needs some engine work. Stock 1725 cc with Weber dual barrel upgrade. I have been going thru the car and have a few questions. I'd like to bundle them since most are brief answer type issues. Just soliciting some advice on the general thinking from the forum experts. Thanks for your help and support.

Fuel: Is a lead additive needed or no.

Oil: Selected straight SAE 30, this is a Florida car-hot environment. that ok?

Headlight high beam dimmer- There is no floor switch, turn signal doesn't dim.
How is this done.

Cooling: Runs a bit hot, (100 C) head gasket seems unlikely, thermostat just replaced. Probably radiator-I don't think Pump is a problem, seems ok. Should I get a new aluminum high performance replacement, or a cooling fan.

Tilt steering wheel: this is discussed in my OEM manual. I see no method to adjust once center hub is loosened, doesn't move. What did I miss.

Transmission: Floats out of third gear near top of range. Quick shift to 4th is a good workaround. Downshifting to third very difficult. Clutch seems ok. I can get a rebuilt synchro trans on ebay for about $600. IS this best way forward or is there a quick linkage check or other troubleshooting that I can do.

Fuel Line: Looks like original Nylon fuel line. Seems dangerous. Replace with steel recommended?

Thanks you all very much. Some pix are attached,
Cheers
Mike Greenberg
 

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crs

Gold Level Sponsor
It seems that you have a great car for Florida.
My car is also red , but a SIV, so I am not current on SV specs, but some one will soon be along to answer your questions.
The only thing we may have in common is the adjustable steering wheel which can be pulled out or pushed in after unlocking it with the center hub.
Enjoy your ride!
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Fuel: Is a lead additive needed or no.
---- use premium fuel with no ethanol and should be fine if the valve seats are still good. You can use an upper cylinder lubricant but don't mix them.

Oil: Selected straight SAE 30, this is a Florida car-hot environment. that ok?
----- should be OK as long as it's got correct level if zddp (1200ppm)

Headlight high beam dimmer- There is no floor switch, turn signal doesn't dim.
How is this done.
Should be a foot switch

Cooling: Runs a bit hot, (100 C) head gasket seems unlikely, thermostat just replaced. Probably radiator-I don't think Pump is a problem, seems ok. Should I get a new aluminum high performance replacement, or a cooling fan.

Use an infrared thermometer and aim it at the temp sender, likely it is mismatched to gauge or gauge is wrong...is it spitting coolant?

Tilt steering wheel: this is discussed in my OEM manual. I see no method to adjust once center hub is loosened, doesn't move. What did I misits telescopic not tilting

Transmission: Floats out of third gear near top of range. Quick shift to 4th is a good workaround. Downshifting to third very difficult. Clutch seems ok. I can get a rebuilt synchro trans on ebay for about $600. IS this best way forward or is there a quick linkage check or other troubleshooting that I can do.

Sounds like 3rd gear synchro is gone.

Fuel Line: Looks like original Nylon fuel line. Seems dangerous. Replace with steel recommended?

They are nylon... metal is good, but it's 50 years old and still surviving
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Let me add a few thoughts:

Dimmer: Alpines built for UK use had the dimmer on the turn signal stalk. Have you tried pulling up on it? What is your VIN number? Does it end in LRX? if so it is an import and should have a floor switch.

Engine temp. Yes these alpines tend to run hot and it can be a problem. This is especially a problem when idling or moving slowly. First, as Alpine 64 suggested test to be sure you are actually running hot. likely causes for reading hotter than actual 1) the "Voltage Stabilizer" for the gauges is not working and is applying full system voltage to the Temp and Fuel gauges causing both to read about 20% high. 2) Defective sender. 3) defective gauge (rare). If it's really running hot , re-core the rad with a 3 row core, and use an electric fan (lots of posts on here about that)

Steering wheel, not tilting but telescoping. Loosen steering hub and pull or push in or out. If it has not been adjusted in a long time it may be stuck- not uncommon. Bang on it - not with a hammer!

Tom
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Dimmer Switch for the Headlights

Mike G, Here is a PIC that might help you on the Dimmer. It is floor mounted on the left side near the clutch pedal on my lefthand drive SV it has an L-shaped bracket mounted to the floor with the dimmer switch attached.

DanR
 

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Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
Welcome to the Forum and to the world of Alpine ownership, Mike. You will find this forum to be an incredible asset to you as you sort through the car. You will find answers, or at least discussions, on almost any you need to know. Google is the best way to search here; just type in your search terms and then add "site:sunbeamalpine.org".

I'll add my 2 cents on a couple of your questions.

First, on the steering wheel: they do tend to stick in place, especially if they haven't been moved in a long time. But, before you 'bang' on it as Tom suggests, make certain it is truly unlocked. I find on my SV that the wheel center feels like it stops before the collet is fully loosened. I have to apply just a bit more pressure to completely open it up. So, at least for me, it is loosen center, loosen it a bit more, and then give it a bang with the side of my fist.

As for your question re: $600 for a rebuilt syncro transmission, this one is a bit more complicated. First, popping out of 3rd gear is a common problem when the syncros are worn. $600 is probably a fair price for a competently rebuilt transmission, but I'd never pay that. The reason is that IMHO, adding an overdrive transmission to your car is the single best improvement you can make to overall drivability and enjoyment. I'd sooner pay $1800 for an OD conversion kit - which tends to include everything you need - than $600 and still have the standard transmission. OD transmissions are relatively rare, but they are out there. Jeff Howarth in the UK is the king of OD transmission sales. He generally sells them on eBay, but also comes on the forum here to let everyone know when he is listing one. Here is the link to one he sold just last week: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sunbeam-A...2TY14bMgjeXgiu9Llppy8%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Your other option is to add a modern 5-speed. Many people have gone with Toyota transmissions and I know at least one forum member has used a Ford unit. This is more work than the OD, but there is a kit available from Australia (or is it NZ?) that makes it easier. You might want to search this site for some of the 5-speed discussions before you commit.

And, finally, back to the rebuilt one on eBay. While $600 is a fair price given the work involved, I think the one you are looking at has been listed multiple times, because most people who need a new tranny will go for the OD or 5-speed. A standard transmission will probably be hard to sell, regardless of how well it has been rebuilt. It might be worth making a low-ball offer on it.
 

Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
I agree with Jim regarding the tranny - you are probably better off in the end upgrading to a 5 speed. There are conversion bell housings available from a couple of suppliers that will couple the Alpine 4 cylinder to a Toyota 5 speed. And it is not all that difficult to work with a machine shop to modify your existing bell housing to accept a Toyota transmission. My 20 cents worth. Pete
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
If switching to an OD (stock or otherwise) is a little more than you want to invest right now in money and time, I'd still want to know exactly what was "rebuilt" before I paid $600 for a tranny on eBay.

Edit: Just looked at the two trannys on ebay. The greasy $600 one (looks like a non-synchro box) is a true "pig-in-a-poke." It's worth $150, tops. The $695+frt rebuilt one (open to lower bids) sounds pretty good. Still, there's no mention of the condition of the 3rd/4th-gear shiftfork, so you could conceivably still find it popping out of 3rd gear, unless it was actually road-tested. I'd offer $600 and see if he bites.
 
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Mjbeanie

Bronze Level Sponsor
Thanks to you all very much for your knowledge and insight.
I've made some progress, other items remain a mystery.

The headlight dimmer is still MIA, no floor switch. The column does not have a switch. My VIN is B395013026 LRX.

I will go find ethanol free gas as suggested.
The thermostat in the car was a 180 degree one, it has been replaced. It still goes too hot for my taste particularly with ambient temps in Florida around 100. I will probably have to get a more efficient radiator, rather than a cooling fan.

Steering wheel does not adjust, but I am starting to like it just where it is-FIXED!

Transmission, I think I had some good luck. Found a very good condition (it appears) 67 tranny from a vintage UK parts supply house in nearby Sebring FL. A can't go too wrong price of 150 bucks. See photos-let me know what you think??

I think the internals look good-fingers crossed. There is an external hole that should not cause problems.

BTW- If I could ask the forum- What other "stuff should I replace once I drop the tranny-since I'll be in that location?? (seals, clutch, other stuff)

Thank you all again. I will keep you posted.

-pardon the pun..
 

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Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Have you verified that it is running too hot using some independent instrument to measure the temp, or are you just depending on the 60 year old gauge system?

Tom
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
BTW- If I could ask the forum- What other "stuff should I replace once I drop the tranny-since I'll be in that location?? (seals, clutch, other stuff)

Definitely check all the clutch components (disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc.) and rebuild / replace as needed. Check the flywheel face condition and flywheel ring gear. Consider replacing the pilot bearing in the flywheel center.

With the drive shaft removed, check the universal joints condition. If bad, or if original, I'd replace them. The original u-joints were sealed. The newer joints have a zerks fitting so you can push new grease through periodically.

Mike
 
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