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locked up engine

mikefuller2

Donation Time
I have been finishing my 65 Alpine IV with a 1592 and it has been running great until last weekend. It al of a sudden started to rattle very rough. it then died and will not start. I have pushed it in and out of the garage so I do not think it is the Transmission which I just had rebuilt and put in. New clutch, TB, Preasure plate and flywheel.

So I took off valve cover and everything looked good. I went ahead and pulled the head and everything looks good but still can not turn over by hand. I noticed the head bolts where very tight even though last time I pulled the head I used a torque wrench but they seemed much tighter then when I put them in. I also pulled the started to make sure it was not engaged. It sound like to me it could be the camshaft but I am not for sure. Does anyone have any other thoughts?

I have also been thinking about doing a V6 conversion if I need to pull the engine and rebuild current one.

Thanks
mike
 
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volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
Put the car in gear (ignition off) and rock the car to see if the crank pulley moves, even slightly. If not, my vote is a spun bearing, probably cylinder #2.

Good luck, Mark ..... volvoguys
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
How's your engine oil level?
Camshaft? What makes you think it's the camshaft? And then you pulled the head off? What's the reasoning for doing that?
Put a strap wrench around the engine pulley and see if you can turn the crankshaft. You said the engine is "locked". Well, that should have been the very first thing to do to see if you can move the crank some.
It sounds like it ran dry of oil
Jan
 
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mikefuller2

Donation Time
Lock up

Thanks

I had a full level of oil. I just drained it again and 3 1/2 quarts cam out with out taking off the oil filter. I had just replaced the head gasket and I though maybe a push rod was bent or a spring might have broke. That is why I pulled the head. When I would try to start iT the fan would move however the Polly would not move. I am going to try to turn it over with a wrench tomorrow.
 

mikefuller2

Donation Time
Clutch work

My clutch was worked on about two months ago. I really did not drive more then 4-5 miles since then.

QUOTE=RootesRacer;158798]How recent was the trans and clutch work?


Quite often new problems are the result of a recent repair.[/QUOTE]
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
Thanks

I had a full level of oil. I just drained it again and 3 1/2 quarts cam out with out taking off the oil filter. I had just replaced the head gasket and I though maybe a push rod was bent or a spring might have broke. That is why I pulled the head. When I would try to start iT the fan would move however the Polly would not move. I am going to try to turn it over with a wrench tomorrow.


How could the fan move but not the pulley ("Polly")?

Any way a starter could go bad and jam up the engine?

I think the spun bearing suggestion is the strongest candidate.
 
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Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Just 4-5 miles since clutch and tranny work and now the engine is locked up. Like RR suggests , I'd look in the clutch or tranny area.

Tom
 

mikefuller2

Donation Time
I pulled the starter because that was my first though. It seems to be working good. I was wrong the fan does not move when turned the key it did a quick jerk but never moved from position.
 

RootesRacer

Donation Time
When you run the starter, does it run the motor without moving the engine, or does it engage the flywheel (probably making a nasty noise) and stall the starter mover against the unmoving engine?
 

mikefuller2

Donation Time
starter

It just makes a click sounds like when you have a dead battery. I have a good charge on the battery and after trying 4-5 times all the wiring for starter and main wire to the battery get really hot. When I pulled the starter it moves easily.
 

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Sounding to me like the starter is no good.

If the engine is totally locked up, the starter will spin long enough for the bendix to engage and then hit a dead stop. This is a bit nastier sounding then what it sounds like with a dead battery.

That the wiring gets hot sounds to me like internally the starter (brushes/commutators are shorted). It would get hot if the motor is locked, dont get me wrong but I am not convinced this is the case.

If you think the starter is good, remove it and with the black jumper cable lead, connect one end to the chassis/engine and the other to the starter case. Be sure both sides are free of paint... Try the starter then and see if the starter spins (its a good idea to have some one hold the starter as it will jump due to inertia if it actually works).

Have you put a wrench to the crank and tried to turn it?
As previously said, putting the trans in 4th, you may be able to push the car to see if the engine turns.
 

mikefuller2

Donation Time
More info

I did put car in 1,2,3,4 gear and it does rotate in 2,3,4 gear. I believe it would in 1 however I really can not get enough pressure by myself.

I finally attached the starter to jumper cables as suggested. At first it did nothing however after about 15-20 seconds it did start to turn. Now it spinnes every time I connect it.

I was able to talk to volvoguy and he went over a lot of things to look at and some suggestions. I wanted to thank everyone for their input it is really helpful
 

Knightowl61

Gold Level Sponsor
This thread brought back memories. My series II 1592 froze with the same symptoms.
In the late 60's I got stranded in a sub 0 blizzard at a ski resort in Pa. Making a long story short I found a thrust bearing got loose and wedged between the crank and block locking the engine. Possibly you got it pushed back in place.
 

mikefuller2

Donation Time
I wanted to thank everybody for their help. I am rebuilding the original engine and almost ready to put back together. I had the crankshaft balanced and regained unfortunately the grinded it to .010 and that main bearing is no longer available. Does anyone have a set of mains .010 for 3 main 1600?

If not I can always have the machine shop take a little more off to a .020.

also an update with the engine that had locked up. I pulled it this weekend and broke it down today. I had a crack in the crankshaft in the 3rd cylinder.

once I got it all free it really feel apart so I wanted to thank Volvoguy for suggestion of rebuild original engine. I have had a blast learning as much as I can on this little engine
 

TulsaAlpine

Donation Time
Perfect Weather Now

:D Hurry up and get your Alpine running we finally have dry cool weather for top down drives here in central Florida! Good to know we have a experienced alpine rebuilder now in Florida just in case I may need advice later. My Vicki the Alpine is still in Texas but the new garage is finally being built won't be to much longer before I bring her home. Dad had to replace my starter, and part of the issue was a missing ground wire. Starts right up now and Dad is at least pleased. I will be also when I get Vicki on down here.

Donna
:D
 

R Ziehr

Donation Time
I may have missed it, was the engine frozen? Mine is doing the same thing, just clicking. The starte will spin when I take it out and hit it with a charge but when it’s installed all I hear is a clicker when I turn the ignition. I’ve tried pushing the car while in 4the gear. The wheels will turn just a little then lock.


Suggestions??
 

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Probably better to try a socket wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt than to turn the engine by pushing it. You should be able to turn to engine with a 2 foot lever without too much force. If it feels like its locked then it probably is and you should not force it or you could damage bearings and con rods if its the pistons/rings that are seized.
 

R Ziehr

Donation Time
Will do, thanks. Any ideas where to get the correct socket? You are talking about on the lower pulley correct?
 
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