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Dash pad install

Green67Alpine

Former SAOCA Membership Director
Platinum Level Sponsor
Hi Folks,
After paging through 15 pages of dash pad , I've not found what I'm looking for, I know the windscreen needs to come off(replacing the the frame,and glass also),
the question is, Does the dash itself need to be loosened or removed? If not what about the "cardboard" cover that's between the the dash board and the dash pad "overhang"(the 1 with about 10 rivets in it) I've got lots of work to do before the show in Columbia and the SOS and I've already got the interior pulled out to do some rust removal, and to install some "fat mat".
Thanks for helping out,
Tom j
 

mattinoz

Donation Time
I would like to know the answer to that question as well as I'm planning the same task over the coming winter.:confused:
 

Green67Alpine

Former SAOCA Membership Director
Platinum Level Sponsor
Wellllllllll, I should have actually taken the pad OUT of the box, it was there I found the answers to all my questions :eek: :eek:
Thanks for looking at this post.



Matt, Directions state remove the cardboard, Test fit 'till your happy(make sure none of the extra material is not in the way of a good fit) It's gotta be free not folded under, There's the short version, You might find the entire page at SS web site.

Tom j
 

howard

Donation Time
You'll more than likely be on your back looking up when drilling out those rivets (I was... much easier to reach, better leverage), so be sure to wear goggles to keep the scraps from falling in your eyes.
 

Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
I removed the dash pad from Ol' Blue yesterday. Underneath there is an unmolested, never seen in over 40 years example of an Orchid Green dash.
A photo is attached.:)
 

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  • Orchid Green Dash 001_opt.jpg
    Orchid Green Dash 001_opt.jpg
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Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
You should polish that up and take it to a paint supply store to have it color matched!
 

greenbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
I've juuuust finished this job. Yes windscreen has to come off, the dash pad tucks underneath it. Yes, the dash has to come out. I did read that someone did the job by just lowering the dash, but I cant see how you'd get access to drill out the rivets, apply glue, etc. I'd hate to drip contact adhesive down the front of the instrument panel!

Here's a few notes from my install:

1. The dash pad I bought from SS is, while beautifully made, slightly off to one side. So I'd suggest setting it in place and measuring against the metalwork on each side - the most obvious place is the pinch weld seam where the furflex piping clips onto. I had to elongate holes/cutouts, and remove some of the foam to make it sit centrally. Oh, I also elongated the defroster vent holes.

2. The dash pad needs the foam sanded away (used 180grit on a sanding block) along the edge that goes under the windscreen so it sits nice and flat against the body. It also needs foam cut away where the furflex piping/door seal goes past at the ends. I ended removing a little foam there so the furflex could sit in between the dash pad and the pinch weld a little - maybe 1/8 inch or so.

3. Note carefully where the instructions say to use contact adhesive, you don't need it all over the dash. I didn't use the 'wax paper' trick that Rick suggests, but I did get my wife to help lower the dash into place. I must have trial fitted the dash top about 50 times until I was happy with the fit before I glued it down.

4. I found it helpful to glue down the top of the dash pad (under windscreen & along the raised part) and under the lip of the dash until about a foot from the sides. Once all that was in I then slowly worked outwards cutting & glueing to get the trim to all sit nice.

I hope that helps.
Cheers,
Paul.
 

gtoner

Donation Time
defrost vent hw

I am in the process of doing this job on a complete restoration which was disassembled when I got it. What type of screws mount the defrost vent plates? There is a large hole on each end and a small countersunk hole. There is a corresponding hole in the dash pad for the large hole and a hole again in the cowl. Will this be a pan head machine screw, nut and lock washer underneath? Pan head sheet metal screw? Pan head self taping? Chrome, plated, stainless or black finish? Any clue on the size? Pan head correct?

On the small countersunk screw. What type? What material? What finish? Forgive me here for being this retentive as this is not a 100 point restoration but it is a complete rebuild and I just like to know what was there originally so I can make a decision on what effort I should apply here. There is no hole on the cowl for the small screw. Did it just screw into the dash pad. Should I just shut up, drill a hole through everything and put in a flat head plated sheet metal screw and be done with it. Maybe an oval head stainless. I hate rusty fasteners.
 

greenbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
On the dash vents, one hole at each end is for a small self tapper, and the other (larger) hole is for a 'lift-the-dot' stud that the tonneau cover clips onto. Sorry, but I can't really help with what the screws should be, I can't say mine are original.

BTW - finally finished the dash install, fresh fuel, new plugs & oil, got it started, and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor! So now onto clutch hydraulics - sigh......

Cheers,
Paul.
 

65beam

Donation Time
dash pad

late series 4 and all the series 5 cars did not have the tonneau studs in the defroster vents.
 

Ed109

Donation Time
Ahh, Paul A - I love a bit of unmolested 109... Tempted to do a full respray back to rare factory original..?!
 

Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
late series 4 and all the series 5 cars did not have the tonneau studs in the defroster vents.

I just removed the dash pad from my Series V and Bob is correct. There were four tonneau studs for the dash pad but they were not associated with the defroster vent.
 

gtoner

Donation Time
Many thanks for the info, guys. I have a SV so now I have to find out where the lift the dot HW goes. Anybody got pictures on a SV?

Best Regards

Gene
 

65beam

Donation Time
dash pad

two studs were mounted on each corner of the crash pad near the windshield and there were two in the center that were spaced with maybe two inchs between them. these were installed where the crash pad starts to level off towards the windshield. if you have a tonneau with the lift a dots, fasten it at the back and then mark the front where you have to drill. it's best to use the studs that have a nut to hold them instead of the screw in type. you almost have to have the windshield off to drill the holes. i have an nos tonneau that has not been used and it does not have the lift a dots installed so i doubt that there was a set place if it wasn't a factory installed item.
 
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