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2.8 EFI

Fergusonic

Donation Time
After doing the Offy Intake and 390 Holley for a couple seasons; I decided I would try the Holley Sniper EFI. The engine has the 36-241-4 Comp cam, 2.9 valves, ported relieved, 3 angle grind, and Headers. At around $650 for an Offy Intake I did not want to modify it for the EFI; so I utilized the stock 2bbl Intake with an adapter plate and a insulator gasket. Also had to get higher psi fuel pump. Installation wasn't too bad; the wiring brought a few questions to my lil' back-yard mechanic-pea brain. Holley and youtube videos harp on the unit being susceptable to Electromagnetic interference; so I was on edge about that.
After entering the essentials into it's computer; I fired it up and made a couple adjustments. After a couple hiccups and adjustments it seems to be running nicely. I finally acellerated hard in 1st and 2nd gear and was pleased with it's performance..... possibly even quicker than with the carb. Still not confident in it but as time goes by; we'll see.EFI.JPG
 

Bill Eisinger

Platinum Level Sponsor
I'm doing the exact set up with my SI V6 conversion. We're also doing some machine work on the stock intake to improve flow.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Bradly I'm proud of you for being the tester:)

Several others are going the same route. Will make a nice conversion from the OFY.
 

Fergusonic

Donation Time
It's kind of a scary thing driving a vehicle with a new fuel delivery / computerized system. If it stalls and won't start; I have no clue what to do! And on my country/ hwy drive today it had a couple times where it was like turning the key off for 1-2 seconds but then came back on and ran fine. So who knows maybe it was Learning and got all confused !! I did get on it thru 1st and 2nd gear when I got back home..... definately quicker and smoother than the Offy / 4bbl.
 

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
With EFI, grounds are extremely important. Shielded braid on signal wires helps with EM interference. The Sniper is self learning and will get better over time.
 
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Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
If it quits running and your using Duraspark, change the spark module before messing with the EFI.

Bill
 

mr.vman

Donation Time
Fergusonic,
Thank you for posting about your Fuel Injection. I am considering using the same system, and what appears to be a stock modified intake, like you have. Questions; What did you do for an adpater plate for the Throttle Body and intake? How tall is the adapter, if you did use an adapter? Did you need to modify the throttle arm to clear valve covers? At this time, how is the drivability compared to the four barrel? Please keep us informed as to how this is progressing.
Steve V.
 

Fergusonic

Donation Time
Yes, the Intake is stock. Adapter Plate HLY-17-89 from Summit Racing is what I used and I had to add a block on the rear of it for my throttle cable mounting. The Adapter is .750" thick. There are others out there that may be less expensive. I also used an insulator gasket which is about 3/8" thick. I chose to do so because I wanted to keep the heat to the Sniper at a minimum. The Sniper I used is 550-850. Yes, I modified the throttle arm so it would clear the valve covers by simply cutting off the automatic transmission kick-down part of it's brkt. The hood has clearance with my 2 1/4" tall Air Cleaner.
The drivability is an improvement over the Offy / 390 cfm combo in my opinion. It starts much better, it accelerates smoother, and when I accelerate hard; it is quicker.
 
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Fergusonic

Donation Time
All that being said; I will also say that I have a slight problem that I think is due to EMI . Occasionally it will shut off for 1-2 seconds and then come back on like nothing ever happened. I am in the process of wrapping the Sniper wires/cables with EMI Shielding. Hopefully I can test drive in a couple days.
 

PROCRAFT

Donation Time
So Jim I'm reading the info you posted very interesting all good advice some things you might not be able to attain on these V6 motors with a Sniper.
I liked the comment about wrapping Bradley thinks it's the way to go having experienced the symptoms,the picture I posted shows you've got 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag, also the comment about the co2 sensor is what Holly say's but only after asking,there not
Very forth coming with their info.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Ferg, Double check all your connections are tight. All your grounds for the EFI should go to the same junction point and a then a wire to the negative post. Keep every wire away from ignition wires and alternator.

Solving RF Interference Issues in Sniper Installations (efisystempro.com)
Very interesting Jim. The MegaSquirt people insist that everything go to the MegaSquirt, then grounded to the block. Rootes Racer insisted that everything terminate at the battery, the wheel goes 'round and 'round.

Bill
 

Fergusonic

Donation Time
My thought was that wrapping the Sniper wires with Shielding tape couldn't hurt..,,,, worth a try. I'll also route my spark plug wires coming out of the cap to the rear of the cap / by the firewall. And who knows what else.
 

RootesRacer

Donation Time
My thought was that wrapping the Sniper wires with Shielding tape couldn't hurt..,,,, worth a try. I'll also route my spark plug wires coming out of the cap to the rear of the cap / by the firewall. And who knows what else.
Nothing wrong with this but ground ONLY one end of each cable. Grounding both ends can cause more problems than it solves.
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
Nothing wrong with this but ground ONLY one end of each cable. Grounding both ends can cause more problems than it solves.

That's valid for a sensor shield going back to a receiver. Within a hard chassis ground to suppress EMI noise from a cable you can ground both ends. In the case of a car, frame grounds at either end are good for suppressing something noisy. Shielding a signal from noise is where you want one end only of the shield grounded, at the grounded end should be at the receiving end only.

What are you doing to locally filter all the wires going back to the electronic controller? Power and signal wires?

If you got some decent documentation for what's there point me at it and I can make some suggestions on how to improve things.
 

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