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what torque

Limey

Donation Time
Hi All

I can't find the torque for this nut (51) in the workshop manual. Can anybody advise how to correctly tighten this?

Thanks!
 

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bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Oliver, there apparently is none. The castellated nut is only locking the "adjustment nut" in order to ensure the recommended end float . Pls. see the relevant portion from the manual here:

IMG_20200425_124352.jpg

P.S. I think the end float is a bit to much...
 

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Great then. It's a description from my very early Workshop Manual only catering for SI/II & Rapier. Hardbound for Hackney Library. Don't actually recall where I got it from. Perhaps from Pooks bookstore ;)
 

Limey

Donation Time
Good find! I use Pooks also. Strange that this was not in the Alpine Workshop manual...

In the end I just pinched the thrust washer and slackened back to find the split pin hole
 

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
It seems to be a rare copy printed in 1961. Appearantly big effort taken to make it hardbound. Special treatment for Libraries ?
IMG_20200426_210956.jpg
 

moonstone SIV

Donation Time
Oliver,

The rubber gaiter in your pic should be fitted higher so that it covers the swivel/fiber washer area to prevent the ingress of...crap.

I usually use a section of bicycle inner tube which can be trimmed to a longer length. Not factory correct of course but does a better job than the tired bit of rubber included in a 50 yo QH kit!

Can you do something about the surface rust beginning to form on those fasteners too please....:p
 

65beam

Donation Time
Oliver,

The rubber gaiter in your pic should be fitted higher so that it covers the swivel/fiber washer area to prevent the ingress of...crap.

I usually use a section of bicycle inner tube which can be trimmed to a longer length. Not factory correct of course but does a better job than the tired bit of rubber included in a 50 yo QH kit!

Can you do something about the surface rust beginning to form on those fasteners too please....:p
Every thing under this car got the Triple P treatment. Painted, Plated or Powder coated. Couldn't do anything to the rotors. The underneath of the body has the same paint finish. No under coating. Limey's car looks to have fasteners fresh out of the box which is how it was done when built. 110_0379.JPG
 
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Limey

Donation Time
Every thing under this car got the Triple P treatment. Painted, Plated or Powder coated. Couldn't do anything to the rotors. The underneath of the body has the same paint finish. No under coating. Limey's car looks to have fasteners fresh out of the box which is how it was done when built. View attachment 19563

Your are right. Everything is as factory. Since that picture I've detailed the front axle again and covered bolts and bare steel in grease.
I drive it in all weathers (never trailered) so I knew I'd get some degradation but easy enough to tidy up.
I'm experimenting with hot oil blacking with graphite powder for the bolts. I'll see how they age.
Oliver
 

Limey

Donation Time
Oliver,

The rubber gaiter in your pic should be fitted higher so that it covers the swivel/fiber washer area to prevent the ingress of...crap.

I usually use a section of bicycle inner tube which can be trimmed to a longer length. Not factory correct of course but does a better job than the tired bit of rubber included in a 50 yo QH kit!

Can you do something about the surface rust beginning to form on those fasteners too please....:p

Hi Basil,
Nice to hear from you. That's not rust mate, That's period correct patina! I use mountain bike inner tube as it's a lot thicker than standard
 

moonstone SIV

Donation Time
Every thing under this car got the Triple P treatment. Painted, Plated or Powder coated. Couldn't do anything to the rotors. The underneath of the body has the same paint finish. No under coating. Limey's car looks to have fasteners fresh out of the box which is how it was done when built. View attachment 19563

I'm well aware of the difference between a factory correct restoration and one that includes as much bling as possible...
 

moonstone SIV

Donation Time
Oliver,

Yes, even a few drops of oil on an item will suffice in keeping surface corrosion from forming. The grease sounds very appropriate, after it's first service at the Rootes Dealer it would have ended up smeared in it anyway...!
 

65beam

Donation Time
There are other ways to detail fasteners, washers, etc. without applying grease or oil and there is no bling.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
.
I drive it in all weathers (never trailered) so I knew I'd get some degradation but easy enough to tidy up.
Oliver

Its what they're built for... And its a lot more fun driving a well sorted car than just looking at a fresh build and taking it up and down a hauler ramp ;-)
 

65beam

Donation Time
Its what they're built for... And its a lot more fun driving a well sorted car than just looking at a fresh build and taking it up and down a hauler ramp ;-)
I agree. We used to drive them everywhere. Probably the most memorable trip in the series 5 was getting onto Skyline Drive at Front Royal, Va. and continuing on into N. Carolina by way of the Blue Ridge Parkway.That was before life, getting older and the wife's health got in the way. Now we have two tow vehicles and two trailers. It happens to everyone eventually. Just check out the trailer parking lot at a United here in the states.
 

65beam

Donation Time
Thanks Bernd. Perfect! All done. Where was that printed?
Over the years it seems I had more problems with the early suspensions than the later ones. Mainly wear of the lower king pins. Is there any one in the U.K. that has reproduced the front suspension king pin kits for the early suspension?
 
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Limey

Donation Time
Over the years it seems I had more problems with the early suspensions than the later ones. Mainly wear of the lower king pins. Is there any one in the U.K. that has reproduced the front suspension king pin kits for the early suspension?

Try Rootes Parts in Holland - He has very good suspension parts including those I think
Oliver
 

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
The lower kingpins only wear if they are not regularly greased or water/dirt finds it's way into the assembly. Therefore I like the bicycle tube idea mentioned earlier. Partially you can use the Holland parts specifically the king pin bits, but not for the fulcrum bushes. I have changed towards rescuing originals as much as I can nowadays...
 

65beam

Donation Time
I was curious as to whether anyone was making better parts. I just trash the early suspension and switch to the later one. I have a complete unit on the shelf that Doug at Tiger Auto recently built for me. It'll go under #2251 LeMans when I get that far.
 
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