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window rubber trim

Thor 1211

Silver Level Sponsor
I serviced the window regulators that were caked with old dried out grease and noticed that the windows rattle around in their channels, both up and down. I'm thinking the Prior owner omitted some rubber trim stuff and so I ordered the fuzzy strips and some sealer strip stuff but I can't see how they are installed. It seems that there should be fuzzy strips on both sides of the opening at the top of the door but no channel to set it in. Can anyone give me an idea (photos) of how and where to mount the rubber bits. Glue, clips?
 

65beam

Donation Time
trim

If you have either a series 1 or 2 there would be fuzzy strips at the top of the doors on both sides of the window. They are held on by clips and are available from Sunbeam Specialties. Part # DC55. If you have a later series the clip is part # DC57. Some where in late series 2 production Rootes started using a rubber outer seal similar to what was used from series 3 on.
 

Thor 1211

Silver Level Sponsor
trim

Great, that's sort of what I thought. it's a series V. The outer strip is a 1 piece fuzzy and weather seal and I see the clips. Thanks for your advice.
 

gary1725

Donation Time
Hi Thor,

I think you are talking about the fuzzy strip, inside, and rubber seal, outside, that sit at the top of the door opening - I have noticed that the disintegration of the inserts within the vertical runners in which the glass slides also contributes significantly to the door glass rattle and replacing mine eliminated it. after removing the old these inserts are pressed into the rear vertical runner and the forward runners, which are two pieces the piece hidden inside the door and the piece that is part of the chrome quarter light.

If I have misunderstood which pieces you are replacing I apologise!
hope this helps
 

rixter

Gold Level Sponsor
On the Series 5, the front window track fuzzies (top and bottom piece) are fixed c-section pieces (SS part # DC51), that press into the window channel. On the rear channel, a roll of fuzzy liner material is available (SS part # DC50), that gets glued into the channel and wraps around the sides. The photos below show the rear track and lastly a side by side of the rear track and front track.

The outer window seal (SS part # DC53), is a rubber piece with metal stiffener. The Victoria British part for this item is total garbage and should be avoided. It has no metal stiffener and isn't shaped properly.

There are also two anto-rattle fuzzies at the top of the door (SS part # DC54)

Hope this helps.

Rick
 

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Thor 1211

Silver Level Sponsor
door trim

Rixter and Gary:

You are right it isn't the trim on the top of the door that is the problem, it's the worn out fuzzy on the vertical sliders. I'll order some today. Thanks for your advice.
 

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
Good posts -- it seems I have only some of the parts that I though would cure the rattle. Once cured, however, it'll only reveal what else needs to be addressed...
It will still be better than my previous solution: folded-up Tim Horton's cup sleeve wedges stuck between the glass and hole in door.
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
It will still be better than my previous solution: folded-up Tim Horton's cup sleeve wedges stuck between the glass and hole in door.

We don't have Tim Horton's here on Long Island. Do you think a Starbucks sleeve would work?
 

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
I'm afraid not. It has to come from a place that actually makes decent coffee.

There, I said it. :)

I recall Bill Blue had a good tip for installing the top window opening trim (the stuff under your elbow when you're driving.) He used many mini binder clips (from Staples, etc.) instead of the factory clips to hold it in. (I would imagine handles either folded or removed entirely.) I haven't tried it, but it seems it would work if they could be oriented so as not to risk glass scratches.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I'm afraid not. It has to come from a place that actually makes decent coffee.

There, I said it. :)

I recall Bill Blue had a good tip for installing the top window opening trim (the stuff under your elbow when you're driving.) He used many mini binder clips (from Staples, etc.) instead of the factory clips to hold it in. (I would imagine handles either folded or removed entirely.) I haven't tried it, but it seems it would work if they could be oriented so as not to risk glass scratches.

Actually, this is George Farrell's idea. But it works so well and he is not here to defend himself, I just might take the credit. I removed the handles, mostly because it is easy to do and they are not needed after installation. Not sure they would be a problem if left on the clip. At time I used them, the available "proper" clips were absolutely worthless, so this was a life saver (well, project saver) tip.

Bill
 

Thor 1211

Silver Level Sponsor
trim

Actually, I ordered some of the clips from SS and they look, well, flimsy. The binder clips are spring steel and I will try them for the furry door top trim.
 
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