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Wheel color

George Coleman

Gold Level Sponsor
I would like to know what the stock color of the factory rims were on a Alpine 5 body shell? When I got my car in 1971 the rims were white with the trim ring and stock hubcap in place. Any help from this large collective of Alpine owners? Thanks
 

Series3Scott

Co-Founder/Past President
Platinum Level Sponsor
Mike is right - Jan color matched from an NOS wheel - it's called Foam Grey and is an off-white, greyish, tinges of brown kind of a color. Hard to match but he did it, and painted all my wheels with the color. They look great!
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
What about series 3 st stock wheel color?
The same "foam grey" over black

The wheels are a satin black the the fronts are painted the foam grey the off-white colour. There is a little overspray that goes through the holes

On a series 3 you have the hubcaps and a chrome trim ring that goes on the rim edge that gouges the paint badly when being put on
 

Knightowl61

Gold Level Sponsor
For the cheap and easy, is there a rattle can close to the foam grey?
Any pictures front & back of the stock wheels?
 

Knightowl61

Gold Level Sponsor
The feature article doesn't give much more info than in this thread and the pictures are too small to see the colors.
Foam grey is an off white, would it be simular to moon stone white?
I'm assuming my spare is not original color (pictured)
 

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alpine_64

Donation Time
The feature article doesn't give much more info than in this thread and the pictures are too small to see the colors.
Foam grey is an off white, would it be simular to moon stone white?
I'm assuming my spare is not original color (pictured)
No the spare isn't. The wheels are black and the foam white was sprayed on the front. The overspray goes through the hole slots.

I helped a friend with a concourse factory correct S3.. we had the paint matched from an original spare...

The issue with sharing the photo is the lighting in the photo and then individual screens changes the appearance so much.

Like many Rootes colours they tend to vary massively in light... Eg Forrest green is muddy in daylight.. or quite deep green in shade or cool light.. carnival red can appear very orange in bright light.

Foam grey on the wheels can look very off white/ivory cream or.. in other light a greyish white ....

Anyway... Some photos... I'll upload to the S3 gallery later..should do anyway.
 

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alpine_64

Donation Time
I should also post a BIG SAFTEY WARNING ⚠️⚠️

DO NOT LEAVE THE FACES OF THE WHEEL NUT MOUNTING SURFACE SMOOTH PAINTED!!

They should have the paint sanded rough or even bare metal.

If the surface is painted the nuts don't seat correctly and they will allow wheel movement. Over time this ovals the holes.. ( also you should check your steel wheels for this) this can lead to studs failing and even the wheels centres failing.

Later Rootes added stiffening ribs near the holes to help strengthen the area .. so having an oscillating movement in that zone is a big NO NO!
 

Knightowl61

Gold Level Sponsor
I should also post a BIG SAFTEY WARNING ⚠️⚠️

DO NOT LEAVE THE FACES OF THE WHEEL NUT MOUNTING SURFACE SMOOTH PAINTED!!

They should have the paint sanded rough or even bare metal.

If the surface is painted the nuts don't seat correctly and they will allow wheel movement. Over time this ovals the holes.. ( also you should check your steel wheels for this) this can lead to studs failing and even the wheels centres failing.

Later Rootes added stiffening ribs near the holes to help strengthen the area .. so having an oscillating movement in that zone is a big NO NO!
Good info, I didn't think about that.
I painted the backs satin black and plan to find an off white spray can for the fronts. Any recommendations for the can?
 

bulldurham

Platinum Level Sponsor
Not correct I know but I like Wimbledon White. Duplicolor has it in the rattle can at a fairly good price
 

Josh

Silver Level Sponsor
Also, MAKE VERY SURE that the lug nuts are the correct curved face ones. Do not replace them with regular cone type. They will likely crack the wheel. If the nuts have been replaced with the cone type, carefully inspect the wheel for cracks.
 

Knightowl61

Gold Level Sponsor
Also, MAKE VERY SURE that the lug nuts are the correct curved face ones. Do not replace them with regular cone type. They will likely crack the wheel. If the nuts have been replaced with the cone type, carefully inspect the wheel for cracks.
Thanks Josh, I would have replaced with new 7/16-20 lugs from Amazon had I not seen your post.
Most new open end lug nuts have 60 degree taper or taper not listed but look alike. The new nuts just touch the center of the hole where the original have more of a grip on the steele.
What are the correct lugnuts and where to find them?

 

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Josh

Silver Level Sponsor
The one on the left has the correct dished (not cone) profile... The cone profile has a tendency to crack the wheel. Most of of the sunbeam suppliers have them. If you can't find them I may have some used ones.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
The one on the left has the correct dished (not cone) profile... The cone profile has a tendency to crack the wheel. Most of of the sunbeam suppliers have them. If you can't find them I may have some used ones.
And the cone shape will allow the wheel to move as it doesn't have enough seat pressure.. it will oval the hole wrecking the wheel even before it cracks it.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Thanks Josh, I would have replaced with new 7/16-20 lugs from Amazon had I not seen your post.
Most new open end lug nuts have 60 degree taper or taper not listed but look alike. The new nuts just touch the center of the hole where the original have more of a grip on the steele.
What are the correct lugnuts and where to find them?

Don't forget to scuff the mounting face of the taper where the nut will sit
 
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