I am doing a build and I would like to put some disc brakes, gears and a posi unit in my sunbeam. I can't seem to find what I want in stock form and it would seem cheaper and maybe better to put a different rear end in. I know I can't be the first to want this and going threw peoples builds I have seen some dana 44. Are their any 8", 8.8 ect. some thing abandonment and can handle 300 lbs feet of torque that have close track with? thanks for your replies.
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What rear ends are the V6 guys using in their sunbeams.
- Thread starter DemkoG
- Start date
Dana 44 from a 72 Jeep Commando
I've got a Dana 44 from a 72 Jeep Commando. It has a centered pinion. It's about the right width. As I'm sure you know, the Sunbeam Tiger came with a Dana 44.
Right now I'm trying to find a way to cross-reference the axle shaft lengths so that I can try to scrounge axle shafts from something like a Ford pickup truck. I'd like to have a hub-centric wheel fitment. The stock Jeep lug pattern is rather agricultural and won't work on a Sunbeam.
Edit: Jeep CJ5 and DJ (postal) from 72-75 are what you'll want to find. Look for the centered pinion. The British V8 web site has articles on finding and fitting these axles. That site is mainly focused on V8 MGBs but they're open to other vehicles.
I've got a Dana 44 from a 72 Jeep Commando. It has a centered pinion. It's about the right width. As I'm sure you know, the Sunbeam Tiger came with a Dana 44.
Right now I'm trying to find a way to cross-reference the axle shaft lengths so that I can try to scrounge axle shafts from something like a Ford pickup truck. I'd like to have a hub-centric wheel fitment. The stock Jeep lug pattern is rather agricultural and won't work on a Sunbeam.
Edit: Jeep CJ5 and DJ (postal) from 72-75 are what you'll want to find. Look for the centered pinion. The British V8 web site has articles on finding and fitting these axles. That site is mainly focused on V8 MGBs but they're open to other vehicles.
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Hi DemkoG,
The best rear end for the Alpine is a Ford 8" from a 1974-1978 Mustang II. It has the same 4 x 4.25 wheel bolt pattern as your Alpine. It weighs just a bit more than the stock Alpine rear end and you will never hurt it with a Hot V6 or even a small block V8, since the Alpine is so light. The housing and axles will need to be shortened in order to get it to fit under the Alpine. There are many different gear sets, up to a 4.55. There are posi traction units that fit them. To build an 8" like this, will set you back about $1,000 to $1,500.
The Dana is pretty heavy and the parts for them are expensive. You wouldent be saving any money trying to use one, because of the money you´d need to end up with what you want.
There are some earlier 8" rear ends in other Ford vehicles, but they are different inside and do not share the same bolt pattern. You can use them, but be prepared to change the bolt pattern to match your Alpine´s.
Jose
The best rear end for the Alpine is a Ford 8" from a 1974-1978 Mustang II. It has the same 4 x 4.25 wheel bolt pattern as your Alpine. It weighs just a bit more than the stock Alpine rear end and you will never hurt it with a Hot V6 or even a small block V8, since the Alpine is so light. The housing and axles will need to be shortened in order to get it to fit under the Alpine. There are many different gear sets, up to a 4.55. There are posi traction units that fit them. To build an 8" like this, will set you back about $1,000 to $1,500.
The Dana is pretty heavy and the parts for them are expensive. You wouldent be saving any money trying to use one, because of the money you´d need to end up with what you want.
There are some earlier 8" rear ends in other Ford vehicles, but they are different inside and do not share the same bolt pattern. You can use them, but be prepared to change the bolt pattern to match your Alpine´s.
Jose
George Coleman
Gold Level Sponsor
The Mercury Capri rear end will work, but they are hard to find these days. 
so I have been doing a lot of looking around and the 8" seems hard to find. The the 4 bolt even more so, they seem they would need to be shortened, no posi, disk brakes and too tall of gears in the ones I have seen. So the 8" looks like it would be hard to find a good one and a lot to modify to make it what I want.
I have a few friend with jeeps and their seems to be a lot of dana 35 around with good gearing 4.10 or 4.88 (4.10 is the one I would get) for cheep. With either posi of lunch box lockers in them. The gears are 7.5 inch so not as strong as the 8" But light car short gears and tires. and only 200 ish HP/torque I think it would be a good option.
I would still have to shorten it about ten inches, add disks to it, and change the bolt pastern. Gears, posi, start price and good after market support seem to be better then the 8".
What are your thought about this idea?
I have a few friend with jeeps and their seems to be a lot of dana 35 around with good gearing 4.10 or 4.88 (4.10 is the one I would get) for cheep. With either posi of lunch box lockers in them. The gears are 7.5 inch so not as strong as the 8" But light car short gears and tires. and only 200 ish HP/torque I think it would be a good option.
I would still have to shorten it about ten inches, add disks to it, and change the bolt pastern. Gears, posi, start price and good after market support seem to be better then the 8".
What are your thought about this idea?
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RootesRacer
Donation Time
The 71 to 78 capri I and II models (non fox based).
Not a great axle, parts like bearings and seals are tough to find.
Not a great axle, parts like bearings and seals are tough to find.
RootesRacer
Donation Time
The common ratios for that axle are 3.09, 3.40 and 3.89.
The 3.09 is usually in auto trans cars, the 3.40 is manual trans 2.0 liter and up and the 3.89 is usually only in manual trans 1.6 liter cars.
That would explain why I can't find what I want out of the capri rear ends. I would like some thing around 4.11 to match the final drive of the miata motor and trans. They came with 4.10 and 4.30, also hold up to the turbo 200 to 300 hp torque. the dana 35 and capri have the same size ring gear so power ratings should be about the same.
bashby
Donation Time
Currie sells new 8" housings. I had Currie make mine; housing and axles, cut to length with 4-4x4.25" studs total was $810.00. Am running 4.11 gears and an Auburn LSD. Wilwood offers a disc brake kit for the axle too. I know that you can purchase a complete Ford 8" from Currie too (housing, axles, 3rd. member, LSD, pinion, etc.).
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And I seem to recall that there are factory disk brakes for the 8". Looks like the hardware comes from a 8.8 and is fitted to the 8". Cool.
I like the 8" and 9" because of the drop-out center section. Pull the brake drums, unbolt the bearing retainer, and use a slide hammer to pull the axle shafts out of the housing. Unbolt the center section and voila - it's out. Easy to change rear axle ratios with a spare diff.
I like the 8" and 9" because of the drop-out center section. Pull the brake drums, unbolt the bearing retainer, and use a slide hammer to pull the axle shafts out of the housing. Unbolt the center section and voila - it's out. Easy to change rear axle ratios with a spare diff.
Buying an 8" with a 5 bolt pattern is no big deal. If you buy a 4 x 4 1/4" unit you WILL have to buy one axle and have the long axle cut down and resplined. That will save you the cost of a new axle, whose price will include all required machining. So the cost difference is not that great.
When sourcing an 8", take nothing for granted. Mine came out of an early Fox Mustang, which never came with this axle. Mine has the necked down axle tubes. That and the fact it had 4 X 4 1/4" bolt pattern means it probably was O.E. on an early Maverick.
Bill
When sourcing an 8", take nothing for granted. Mine came out of an early Fox Mustang, which never came with this axle. Mine has the necked down axle tubes. That and the fact it had 4 X 4 1/4" bolt pattern means it probably was O.E. on an early Maverick.
Bill
Fergusonic
Donation Time
Resurrecting this old thread..... has anyone tried an Fox body 8.8? Disadvantages? Problem areas?
I believe the common knock against the 8.8 is Ford's Funky bearing race ground into the axle. No removable chunk, so it's best to be sure of your ratio selection. Strength is not an issue, but then strength is not an issue with the Alpine rear or the Ford 7.5, unless you are planning on abusive use. Typically, any full sized axle has to be cut down so much anything can be fitted for the job.
Ask ten guys, get twelve opinions.
Bill
Ask ten guys, get twelve opinions.
Bill
Bill Eisinger
Platinum Level Sponsor
For my SI V6 conversion project we are converting to a late series rear suspension. The spring and shock set up on the early series cars leaves a little to be desired in my opinion. The one minor modification will be to use hardened axle keys which is a good idea in any event. For the use we anticipate with the car (nice cruiser, no racing) the late series stock rear end seems plenty adequate.