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Valve lifters

C

Clark

Silver Level Sponsor
Rebuilding my Alpine. Got a new short block from Sunbeam Specialties, cam done by Delta and new lifters.
All back together, tried to get lifters in. Would not go. Tried to wash out bores with MEK on a rag and re-lubricated with assembly lube. Barely able to get seven in and they are very sluggish. Eighth is stuck. Hope to be able to remove with battery terminal expander to pull it up and out. What to do then. Looking at possibly pulling the head again, using a bore brush or honing tool to open up the bore. Worry about contamination from this process somewhat. If anybody has solved this problem I would like to hear from you.
Clark
 
sunalp

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
Where did you get your new lifters? Do you still have the old ones? Could be that
the ones you received aren't the correct ones. I've many engines and have never had
a lifter fitting issue. I'm not sure if the bores can be honed, but maybe with a new block
they need to be. Call Rick and ask him. If you have the old lifters, Delta can refinish
those.

If you do have to hone the bores, I'd remove the oil pan to get any metal particles out
before running your new engine.

Hope that helps.

Steve
 
C

Clark

Silver Level Sponsor
Steve,
Bought the lifters from Sunbeam Specialties. If I have to get to brushing or honing probably have to remove cam again to keep from contamination.
I can move the sluggish ones with my finger. Do you think those in place will loosen up after it is run a little?
Guess I will have to pull the head, pan and cam at this point again. UGH!
Will call Rick for some direction.
Thanks,
Clark
 
C

Clark

Silver Level Sponsor
Steve,
Talked to Rick. Says he has never had a problem. Suggests some Cosmoline has gotten in bores and can be removed with Awsome Orange from the Dollar Store. Will give it a try!
Unfortunately I sent old lifters or Delta as they said they wanted them and I had no use for them.
Thanks again,
Clark
 
65beam

65beam

Donation Time
I had the new block dipped and cleaned before final assembly. The cosmoline was heavy in some places. I recently bought from Rick the last set of spider gears that he had for the rear end. The cosmoline must be at least 1/8 inch thick on the gears so you may have a similar problem with the block having a heavy coat. The clearance between the block and lifters has to be pretty close.
 
sunalp

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
Clark,
That sounds like your problem, heavy Cosmoline. Too bad you went as far as you did, but
I'd bet I would have done the same thing. Well , at least you're getting some more quality Sunbeam
time in! (HA!)

Cheers!
Steve
 
C

Clark

Silver Level Sponsor
Problem has been solved. After some disassembly discovered Cosmoline in the lifter bores. Cleaned out with WD40, which by the way is a great solvent for Cosmoline. If anyone gets a new short block from Sunbeam Specialties, it would be a good idea to thoroughly clean out lifter bores and test fit lifters before going on with assembly. A good tool for getting lifters out is a battery terminal expander, perfect size.
Thanks forum members for the direction!
Clark
 
puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
British sand castings are notorious for having sand leach out over time. Before doing my rebuilds I always solvent scrub & flush the block & head, then follow up with a thorough detergent & water scrubbing. I also use long wire brushes for all oilways and water jackets. This process loosens and removes any sand, as well as any cosmoline, oils, sediment or other debris, making the ultimate rebuild more secure.

(I then do a bit of overkill, since all my builds include coating the oil-touching areas with epoxy, which seals the castings and keeps the oil itself much cleaner over time. The epoxy prevents impurities from sticking to the inside of the motor, so they are carried off to the filter and removed from the oil. It’s an old-school hot-rodder trick, and it works great.)

B673-EDD2-AEAF-4-D2-E-A22-C-9-F1-CA2-F01-E61.jpg


A1-A9-E18-D-7-FE3-4-DF4-9016-D1871-E4843-E7.jpg
 
Gordon Holsinger

Gordon Holsinger

Diamond Level Sponsor
puff4 said:
British sand castings are notorious for having sand leach out over time. Before doing my rebuilds I always solvent scrub & flush the block & head, then follow up with a thorough detergent & water scrubbing. I also use long wire brushes for all oilways and water jackets. This process loosens and removes any sand, as well as any cosmoline, oils, sediment or other debris, making the ultimate rebuild more secure.

(I then do a bit of overkill, since all my builds include coating the oil-touching areas with epoxy, which seals the castings and keeps the oil itself much cleaner over time. The epoxy prevents impurities from sticking to the inside of the motor, so they are carried off to the filter and removed from the oil. It’s an old-school hot-rodder trick, and it works great.)

B673-EDD2-AEAF-4-D2-E-A22-C-9-F1-CA2-F01-E61.jpg


A1-A9-E18-D-7-FE3-4-DF4-9016-D1871-E4843-E7.jpg
Click to expand...
I used to use rustolium to paint the inside if the block.
 
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