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Timing Marks Series II

tigereater

Silver Level Sponsor
My husband is trouble shooting a problem with a suddenly rough running engine. I won't get into detail unless asked, but we've search through the shop manual, this forum and Googled around but can't find anything that would tell us what the increments of the marks on the balancer represent for degrees. (There are 4 marks at 8 mm intervals from TDC.) The shop manual states set static ignition timing at 8mm. What does that represent in degrees? 10*?
Thanks,
Gina Snyder
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
What shop manual are you looking at? On page 12 in my workshop manual, there is an illustration of the timing marks. The first mark is TDC, then each sequential marks are 5 degrees each. I set my timing at 10 degrees at idle (1000rpm)
I don't understand where the 8mm linear measurement came from.
Jan
 

tigereater

Silver Level Sponsor
Jan-
Thanks for your reply. We have an original Sunbeam Alpine and Rapier Workshop Manual. The 8um dimension is on page 13 of Section B (Engine). He can't find the degrees mentioned in that one.
After reading your post, my husband decided to check the other manual we have. It's Sunbeams Owners Handbook of Maintenance & Repair. It does jive with your manual and says they are 5°.20190713_102938.jpg 20190713_102858.jpg
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
My workshop manual, part number 6601102 issued in 1964 (Located on the very first page), says nothing what yours says, even though it has the same front cover???
(Oh maybe that's the manual that jives with mine, got it)
Jan
 

beamdream

Gold Level Sponsor
Probably to get going, you need to set the static timing about one or two graduations before TDC. Beyond that, the relevance of timing marks on an older engine is a bit subjective, what with the changes of modern fuels, timing chain wear etc.

If you have the engine idly smoothly with a timing light showing steady flashes at the 2nd or 3rd graduation before TDC, that's a good start.

A road test with a bit of adjusting of the distributor advance / retard wheel to get best performance will get you in the ball park; alternatively if you've got a vacuum guage and can set the timing at idle to give you a steady 20 inches (give or take an inch) you will be around the mark.

Beyond all this, the most accurate (and expensive) way to get it right will be the dynotune (rolling road)
 

tigereater

Silver Level Sponsor
An update:
After chasing different suspects for the sudden crappy engine performance, including checking timing chain, my husband found that the recently replaced points and condenser were "lemons". Installing another set we had proved to be the fix. (The timing mark question was more one of curiosity than needing to set the timing. The timing itself proved to be very close to dead on.) The car ran well on a shake down drive last weekend. It's been over a 1-1/2 yrs. since it's been driven due to several upgrades being done, including a transmission swap, rear bearings, pinion swap and new brake pads. We also have an Alpine with a working speedometer for the first time. I've been working on new seat covers and look forward to a more comfortable ride next weekend.
 
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