Temp gauge

[napa 1]

I think we need a section entitled: "John's novice question of the day"

Anyway here it is...

Known: series 1 and 2 share the same temp gauge, 3 and 4 share the same one, not sure about 5.
Series 1 and 2 doesn't have an instrument voltage regulator, but series 3 and up does.
Unknown: Can the later series gauge work on a car witout an instrument voltage regulator? I think I have a later series water temp gauge, but I don't have a regulator for it. Could this be why it is giving me strange readings?

 

[Green67Alpine]

With out novice questions a lot of us would be really lost, instead of wandering around in circles. Sorry I can't help you with an answer though.


Tom j

 

[Eleven]

I think we need a section entitled: "John's novice question of the day"

Anyway here it is...

Known: series 1 and 2 share the same temp gauge, 3 and 4 share the same one, not sure about 5.
Series 1 and 2 doesn't have an instrument voltage regulator, but series 3 and up does.
Unknown: Can the later series gauge work on a car witout an instrument voltage regulator? I think I have a later series water temp gauge, but I don't have a regulator for it. Could this be why it is giving me strange readings?

No. I had the same problem until one of the blessed folks here on this site asked if I had an earlier model gauge. I did. The later models use the voltage regulator and need it.

 

[Wombat]

John,

The gauges in the Series 3 onwards (including my old 1970 Hillman Hunter GT - now long gone) use a bimetalic strip to move the needles. Current goes from the regulator through a resistance wire wound around the bimetal strip. This warms the strip, the two metals expand at different rates and the strip bends, moving the needle. The amount of current is determined bu the resistance of the sender unit. The voltage regulator supplies about 10 volts to these gauges to produce stable readings. Otherwise the readings would vary with the voltage in the charging system. If you use them without the regulator the temperature gauge will read high because the full 12 V pushes more current through - not sure about the fuel gauge.

There is a different type of gauge that I think was used on the Series I & II. It has a magnet on the needle and two coils of wire. One of these coils is connected to directly to earth and moves the needle one way. The other coil is wound in the oposite direction and is connected to earth via the sender unit. This tends to move the needle the other way. The needle ends up sitting where the two magnetic fields and the spring loading on the needle balance. This gauge is not affected by variations in voltage and does not need a regulator.

If you pull the gauge out, there will probably be a date of manufacture stamped on it that will give you an idea if it is a later gauge. The stamp will look something like "6 63".

 

[napa 1]

Thanks Robert. I'm sure this is a later gauge just by looking at the face. The graphics are different that that on the earlier guages. And your description of what happens when no regulator is in place, matches what my gauge is doing. After I start the engine, the needle just moves right up to 250 degrees, when the engine, radiator, hoses etc are still cool to the touch.
I've changed out the sender and closely examined my wiring for any shorts, so I'll swap back my old gauge, (looks like hell, but its a series one gauge for sure) and see if I get a proper reading.
Thanks again.

 

[ozzie alpine]

are the senders the same for early vs later alpines?

 

[Alpine Bob]

On our Series II, the temp gauge will read around 195 during regular operation, snd sometimes in traffic, it will read upwards to over 220, but when we point the laser gauge at the temp sensor, and the thermostat housing, the laser will read right in the range of 165 (we are using a 165 thermostat). Would we have a bad sending unit or a bad gauge? The gauge matches all the other gauges in the dash, same font, same graphics. Any suggestions?

 

[napa 1]

oooh, where can I get one of those laser temp gauges?

 

[Alpine Bob]

Next time I get over to the garage where the laser is I'll check with mechanic and post the results here.

 

[husky drvr]

oooh, where can I get one of those laser temp gauges?

John,

Try this >


http://www.raytek-northamerica.com/cat.html?cat_id=2.3.5&PubSessID=3ae8f2978414c641d224d0a902678dfe

 

[gordonra]

I just bought one of these from Harbor Freight..... Works great!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93983

I had the engine warmed up and pointed it at the thermostat housing and other parts of the engine and cooling system.

It was also interesting to see the oil temp at the filter and at the oil cooler.

Rich

 

[Rick Young]

Temperature gauge

I brought my gauge to Nisinger instruments when I had a problem. He pointed to the numbers on the face of the gauge. Behind that bottom shield. He looked it up in an old manual & sold me a sending unit for that gauge. Works fine now.

 

[nraymond]

i had the same problem as you, my car had been sitting for a while while being sprayed so perhaps the temp sender corroded or got stuck or something, anyway i changed the temp sender and now it reads very well.

I would suggest that you do as I did and plug another gauge in just to check its not defective and then change the temperature sender.

Good Luck
Nick

 

[napa 1]

Conclusion

Recap...Temp gauge goes straight to 250 degrees even when engine is not hot to the touch. (Series III replacement gauge in Series I car). Also, as needle on amp meter moved to positive, so temp needle tended to move to hot. 1) added an instrument regulator, needle now not affected by amp change, but still goes to 250 degree reading. 2) ordered a series III temp sender, now gauge reads properly. So, to answer our questions, not only was an instrument voltage regulator needed but there is a difference between the sending units for I and II vs. III-V. Thanks for all the suggestions. Anybody need a barely used Series I and II temp sender?