• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

SV Transmission Removal

Alpine James

Silver Level Sponsor
Hi All,

SV transmission pops out out gear in 2nd, and is making unpleasant noise in 1-3. WSM says I need to lift the engine ect to remove it. With the car sitting over a 5 ft pit, I cannot see the reason for the extra work. It looks like it should drop out after moving exhaust and a few other bits.

Comments, Insight, Advice?

Thanks, James
 

65beam

Donation Time
removal

make sure you support the back of the engine so that the engine doesn't hit the fire wall or the steering cross tube.
 

twospeed

Donation Time
I pulled mine in the fall and had to tilt down the back of the motor as far as it would go so the shifter housing would clear the tunnel.I did it in my garage on 4 jack stands.
 

Thor 1211

Silver Level Sponsor
It's a chore

I did mine with the whole car jacked up about a foot off the floor. I did have to tilt the whole motor/transmission combo a good deal to clear the tunnel. Strangely enough, it's the stuff you do at the front end that is important, undo the motor mounts and rad hoses (I actually took the rad out first), undo the fuel line etc. But if I can do it alone, anyone can. I was pinned under the car for a few minutes until I recovered from the transmission falling on my chest and figured out how to get us both out. But getting it off was a hell of a lot easier than getting it back on.
 

agmason54

Donation Time
Tranny removal

JJames
It is not nessesary to remove the radiator or unbolt the engine at the front.
I have done them in my driveway sitting on cement blocks.To avoid removing the exhaust I cut it behind the Y pipe,That way you can install a short cheater pipe and replace it the next time the tranny comes out.After removing the drivshaft remove the crossmember and the tranny(and motor) is clear to come straight down.I put a piece of 2X4 behind the engine at the firewall.
I would never unbolt the engine at the front unless you want it to fall down out the bottom. A five foot pit is a luxury and you should have no problems.
Agm
 

Alpine Addict

Platinum Donor
Platinum Level Sponsor
Please be very careful when working under the car support it on jack stands.
A transmission jack is a good idea.

You will need to
Disconnect the carburettor linkage.
The engine will tilt backwards so protect the firewall
Disconnect prop shaft
Drain Oil
Disconnect the gear lever
Disconnect the clutch slave
Remove Exhaust
Disconnect speedo cable
Remove the braces from the engine to the bellhousing
Remove the bolts that connect the bellhousing to the motor

I think that is most of it.

While the gearbox is out I would check the clutch as to replace it the gearbox has to come out again.
 

RootesRich

Donation Time
To add to Steve's list:
Once the engine oil is drained, remove the oil pressure gauge pipe on the side of the block. You'll also need to drain the radiator and loosen the top radiator hose as I believe tilting the engine back will strain it otherwise. Disconnect the starter.

While the tranny is out, check the freeze plug at the back of the block and the tranny seal. Replace if there's any question.

I second Steve's suggestion about a tranny jack. A 5' fall could do quite a bit of damage to you (and the tranny).

During re-assembly, use alignment bolts to help the tranny slide into place.

The WSM does a very good job at going through the removal/ assembly steps. A couple of steps can be skipped, but it's a nice checklist.
 

Ragg Mopp

Donation Time
Also check the distributor. If the vac advance is turned sideways it will hit the frame and rip off. I learned that the hard (and expensive) way.
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
I agree you don't need to unbolt the engine from the motor mounts, but I do loosen the bolts to take some of the stress off the mounts. I also remove the oil filler neck from the valve cover.
 

Alpine James

Silver Level Sponsor
Thanks all,

My pit is covered by a series of 2" x 10" fir planks, so I can place jacks or supports wherever I need, while still allowing access.

Any more hints allways appreciated.

Thanks, James
 

twospeed

Donation Time
Also dont forget one engine to trans bolt on the upper right side is a dowl pin bolt. I had to take the nut off and kock it into the engine block alittle to release the trans.
 

Alpine James

Silver Level Sponsor
Hi all,

Thanks for all the advice. Was able to get the tranny out over the weekend without much trouble. Of course, once you get it out, you have to take it apart. Got the top and front covers off. Pulled out the first gear cluster? and a pile of shrapnel came out as well. Not exactly sure which bearing it was, but it was completely destroyed. It makes me wonder how lucky we were to make the 800K trip from Regina to Calgary without a breakdown.

Making lemonade from lemons, I thought there was something wrong, Now I know for sure. Time for plan 'B'

Thanks, James
 

Alpine James

Silver Level Sponsor
Hey AlsPine, Tell me more!

I am unfamiliar with this conversion, and it sounds like something coming from the dark side. Of course being as the car is more dark than bright, everything is on the table.

Thanks, James
 

Steeman01

Donation Time
Hi all, quick question on the gearbox, I did all the above and removed the gearbox to replace the throw out bearing, and I ultimately put a new clutch in as well.

I am about to put the gearbox in again and I was curious, besides the minimal added weight, is there any reason I wouldn't want to put the oil in the gear box now? It is WAY easier to add the heavy weight oil when it is out of the car and wanted to see what I might not be thinking of as to why I shouldn't. Thanks!

SP
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
... besides the minimal added weight, is there any reason I wouldn't want to put the oil in the gear box now?

Yes, there is a reason... it will all run out the back of the gearbox! There’s no seal there until the drive shaft is in the tail of the gearbox. You can potentially use some plastic wrap and strong tape to seal it temporarily, but when you peel it off to install your drive shaft you’ll still have a major mess on your hands.
 

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
It is WAY easier to add the heavy weight oil

Steeman01,

Just in case you aren't aware, do not use gear oil to fill the transmission. Gear oil additives can degrade the brass baulking rings.

The manufacturer recommendation was SAE 30 non detergent engine oil for the transmission. Any SAE 30 engine oil will work. Several people have reported good results with 20W-50 engine oil. Be aware, depending how "leaky" your trans is, thinner oil might find more places to leave the trans.

Filling the trans is a bit easier if you use the access port in the passenger side of the trans tunnel, just remove the big rubber plug.
 

Steeman01

Donation Time
Thanks @husky drvr , I was going to use 80w-90, is that too heavy? I am in So Cal with lots of warm/hot days and some stop and go driving. I haven't added anything yet, but that is what I had planned. Thanks!
 
Top