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stifled engine!!

66Alpine

Donation Time
hello everyone,
what's the deal? when i step on the gas the engine acts as if it is being choked.. i know that the pnts. are correctly set..the timing a bit ambiguous since my stobe light has decided to die on me after having been used only 3x out of the new box... the pcv is fine.. i am at a loss,,also the engine doesnot want to start w/o the assistance of ether down the carb throats..which i am thinking about myself.. do i need to rebuild the carbs?

please help!!

thank you,

johnny
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Do not fool with the carbs just yet. Sounds like ignition problems to me. A bad condenser will make you swear you have fueling problems.

Bill
 

66Alpine

Donation Time
thank you Bill!

Bill,

The Sv has maybe 150miles on it since i put a new condenser ,pnts. rotor, and also a new coil, plugs, wires,voltage regulator... i feel like i have replaced the entire elec. sys....slight xageratiion of course.. anyway i will replace the condenser nonetheless..

thank you,


johnny
 

sunbby

Past SAOCA President
Donation Time
Do you have the dual Strombergs?

I'm not sure if it would cause hard starting, but if there is no oil in the dash pots the carbs will go lean when you stab the throttle and misfire. A long shot, but it's an easy thing to check.
 

66Alpine

Donation Time
Todd,yes to strombs

yes Todd, the pots are full and i just ck'd them a few days ago and the suction is strong however when i have tried to synch the carbs for equal hiss{sound} the carb closest to the firewall seems to be unadjustable no matter which way i go...lean or rich..??? therefore i think perhaps jet needle sticking or needs to be replaced...yes....no?
thanx,


johnny
 

Nickodell

Donation Time
I disagree with Bill (SURPRISE!). If you can only start by priming with ether, soulds more like fuel starvation. Either your fuel pump is on the fritz, you have a fuel line blocklage, or both carbs are set way too lean. Try pulling the choke out simultaneously with stomping on the loud pedal and see if this allows the engine to accelerate. If it does, case closed.

Oh yes, a sticking needle might give the same symptoms. It has to be pulled up by the piston to allow more fuel to flow as the engine demands it. You may only need to re-center the offending needle.
 

66Alpine

Donation Time
recenter carb needles?

thank you Lord Rootes,
I will try your 1st suggestion and if i have no luck will then move on to your 2nd thought..However, i have not a clue as to how to recenter the needles? a little more info would be greatly appreciated before i delve into a search in the workshop manual...

thanx,

johnny
 

Jim E

Donation Time
The hiss sync method is a waste of time IMO, maybe there is someone out there who can do it but I have yet to see it. If you do not have a uni-sync

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CORV...ryZ43989QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You need to get one for dual carbs. You also need to do a valve adjustment so all cylinders are sucking and blowing as near the same as posible so the carbs are feeding the same demand or at least near so... makes balancing the carbs easier.

Car that runs better with the choke out is a posible sign of out of bal carbs

If your fuel tanks have not been done they could be spittin paint flakes, would put a see thru fuel filter on it and look for black flakes. Then you could have a bad fuel pump or fuel pump lobe on the cam.

Oh and I have found the jet adjustment needs to be out at least a full round farther than the book says. Maybe due to throttle shaft wear leaning the mixture or ? Do not recall the centralizing the jets move off the top of my head other than you have to whack the carb after you loosen something.

As you sort thru all this or as you apply it to your car you might want to do a compression test after the valve adjustment, cause if you have a sunk/burnt exhaust valve syncing the carbs is just pretty much not going to happen
 
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