Steering Box Adjustment screw?

[Jeb Stuart]

Nickodell wrote:
"First, ensure that the box is full of gear oil. Then jack the front of the car up so both f. wheels are off the ground, and keep screwing the adjustment screw in no more than 1/4 turn at a time, turning the wheel carefully from lock to lock after each 1/4 turn and feeling for any binding or grating at the wheel rim. When you start to get the slightest of either of these, especially as you move past the "straight ahead" position when going from one lock to the other, back the screw out 1/4 turn until they disappear. This is about as good as you can get with your current box."

I printed this out headed to the garage, check the oil level, and then could not find the adjustment screw. Where is it? Thanks

 

[61Alpine]

You've been watching " Classic Car Restoration" haven't you.

I was thinking of doing the same thing but I don't remember an adjustment screw.

 

[Nickodell]

Sorry, guys. I forgot that I modded my steering box over 27 years ago. The original design uses a spring (actually, a double spring, one inside the other) under the trapezoid-shaped cover plate on the top plate (the one held down by two bolts) to keep tension on the gear. In other words, the springs are non-adjustable in OEM form. Along with the normal wear, I imagine that the springs lose some force over 40 or 50 years.

When I first got Matilda in 1980, even after replacing the steering joints the lost motion at the steering wheel was still some 2" in the straight-ahead position. I drilled and tapped the plate and added a bolt and locknut to enable adjustment to add a little more pressure. I emphasize little.

Understand that I'm not recommending you do the same. I'm just explaining what I did. If you do, don't go overboard or you'll risk damaging your balls. That should read the balls. If this doesn't work, the box needs replacing. In any event, as steering is the most important thing on your car, you may decide not to mess with it.

It was so long ago that I forgot it wasn't an OEM fitment.

 

[mxp01]

Well with the talk of steering boxs, I have a question. when I steer It creeks, Sqeeks, Crocks, ect. would I use reg. motor oil to lube this??

 

[Nickodell]

It's supposed to use gear oil, but in most cases that means it just runs out down the Pitman arm because the bottom bush is worn. If that happens to you, use the lightest lithium grease you can get. The biggest problem is getting it into the box through the filler hole. I solved that problem years ago by removing the top cover plate, and drilling and tapping it to receive a Zerk grease fitting.

As to sqeaks, etc.: any sounds of that kind indicate machinery in distress, usually through lack of lube. Could be the box, steering joints, suspension, lots of things. You should not ignore them, but investigate and fix. Jack the front end up and turn the wheel lock to lock while someone goes round tracing the source.

 

[Wombat]

Stock adjustment is via shims under the top cover. The manual says to measure the clearance between the top cover and the steering shaft with a feeler gauge through the hole where the springs are. When I adjusted mine, I measured the clearance with plastigauge, measured the shims and did the arithmetic to work out the thickness of shims required. The steering (naturally) wears more near centre, so you need to make sure that clearance still exists at full lock.

 

[Jeb Stuart]

I did have several shins maybe 3 or 4. What should I do take one out or add one to make the steering tighter

 

[Wombat]

Jeb

If you remove one or more of the shims, it will reduce the clearance and tighten the steering, but you should make sure that there is still some clearance over the whole range of travel to make sure the steering does not jam - could be embarrasing!!

I do not have a manual with me, but I think it gives a range for the clearance. In mine, I aimed to have the clearance at full lock at the low end of the range. Also make sure that all the tie rod ends, ball joints etc have no looseness in them.

Good Luck

 

[Jeb Stuart]

Thanks, as always, for the advice. I'll break out the shop manual and try to figure it out this weekend.

 

[RootesRooter]

Start with the thinnest shim. It takes very little adjustment to make the steering effort incredibly heavy, with little automatic return to center. And increased steering effort doesn't necessarily mean tighter steering. With four tie-rod ends, two rubber cross-link bushes, plus fairly lax wheel-bearing tolerance, there's still plenty of slop to go around.