DanR
Diamond Level Sponsor
Here's to Sam! A PO of a SV that He had started doing the Jose V6 Conversion, but ran into some health problems and offered for sale. I took him up on the offer and I am working on the "Green1" (referred to as Sam's <your> Car) at present and dividing my time between several projects. While waiting on the header work on one or the engine work on another or trying to get parts for another I am kept fairly busy! All fun of course! Now another SAOCA Member wants me to help install a V6 in his Alpine (it is an Automatic Bw35 like my GT).
My GT is awaiting some Header work where I have made contact with an outfit that builds custom headers. I have designed a set that will run straight back (Not out the side). Probably put them on both cars the Green1 and the Red GT for starters.
Sam, During the process of inspecting the Green1 I discovered several areas that are in need of some extensive work (due to rust). I am not complaining! Just stating some hard facts. When you get to the comments on the engine, I have some PIC's that confirm my findings. Again, it is not to complain! Just something that I found and needed correction. Otherwise it would have damaged the engine when running. As I said before, I am happy with the deal and have proceeded with the V6 Conversion. During the process I have made a few modifications to "improve" the Conversion (s). Mainly the headers and engine mounts. The Engine Mounts are my design entirely. I believe they are easier to make, simpler to install and sit squarely on the cross member utilizing a much larger biscuit without changing the engine height and if used in conjunction with the T5 bracket there is "NO Trial and Error" in placing the V6 engine on the crossmember.
The following is a narrative of my findings, remarks and work thus far on the Green1: My Rotisserie is tied up with the 1965 Early Series IV BW35(AT) GT undergoing V6 Conversion and exhaust work so I borrowed a friends rotisserie. It will also take lots of work to get it modified to work with the Green 1 or any of my other Alpines. That portion of the project will have to wait awhile, so, after making room for the Green1 in one of my shops I was finally able to start taking it apart.
I started by removing the hood. Found some major rust in the area between the hood hinges. Both hood hinges are good. Then trunk lid. Springs and arms good shape. Hinges fair to good drivers., But, I will have them re-chromed!
The Fuel tanks and associated pipes and pieces were in good condition. Very surprising in that they are nearly always showing some rust on the bottoms. Brackets for the tanks have a good original paint (Colour Code 86). Squirrel/chipmunk/rat nest etc., stuff added up to about two gallons of trash. The bottom sheet metal in trunk area appears fairly good. One of the former PO’s had made a couple of patches to deal with rust. Nothing major. Of course the Rubber hose pieces will be ordered new. The clamps are original and like new.
Removed wiper and washer bezels . Busted the LH wiper bezel because of rust and corrosion. They need replacing! I removed the windshield frame. It is rusted very badly on both sides near the door post. Probably will be replaced with a better frame from a donor car.
The Heater core appears good (anyone need a good one $10 +shipping). Removed the outside vent covers which were in good condition.
The Tail lights and park/turn signal lights are good drivers. The PO had cut the wiring in the car where it was no longer usable except for the head lights, park/running lights, and horn wires. The wiring from the front that provides power to the tail lights and fuel tank gauge were there and in good condition. A complete wiring harness plus a nice panel and Gauges came with the Green1.
Next I started by removing the drivers side door, man those hinge bolts/screws just don't like being removed. Special hammer tool only way to go. The door glass was busted. Bottom of the door on the inside rusted very badly. Outside not so bad. Possibly need a donor door ! One screw has refused to budge! Soaking in WD40 on a frequent basis.
Window vent glasses in both doors are in good condition, the chrome fair to good and I can clean them to be a nice pieces except for the bottom pieces under the vent, both need re chroming. There is the usual rust and screws stripped.
Went to passenger side door, much better condition. Free of rust! I was able to save the door glass and track mechanism. Again, much trouble getting the screws out of the hinges. Usual rusty pieces and screws stripping off when removal attempted. Stripped out the old tar paper from doors and removed a lot of crud from years of accumulation.
Both window mechanisms are in nice condition. Door pulls are in great shape.
Outside door handles needs re-chroming, otherwise good drivers. However, they will get re-chromed.
Removed the crossover linkage to the steering and replaced with the piece from Jose's kit that you purchased back in 2007.
Remember, I have the engine on a stand in my "1 shop, free of grit, grim and dust. It has central heat and Air where I spend most of my time on my cars. It is here that I recently took time to look at the Green1's V6 engine a bit more closely. I noticed small metal shavings around the valve covers some time back, became curious, so, I removed the covers and found shavings in the oil return valleys. Removed the 4 bbl Intake manifold and found some inside the valley area around the lifters. Had a discussion with my Machine Shop guy who advised me to remove the oil pan also. That done, I found some additional shavings and crud from when the engine was being built. Sam, I'm not sure where you purchased the engine but would like to know if you remember. Can't find it in the papers you provided. At this point for safety, I started a disassembly of the entire engine.
My Shop Guy says it was not balanced during re-build. So off to the Machine Shop in Charleston, SC for balancing like I did my other V6. $175.00 is an expense well worth the money and time to get it done right!
After stripping the Alpine except the front and rear end running gear from the car, I started installing a “Mock-up” engine block w/timing cover (TC), water pump, bell housing and the T5 you had purchased.
With the “mock-up” in the car, I fastened Jose’s Transmission (manual) Bracket(Not slotted at this time) that was in the Kit you bought back in 2007 in place, fastened my (designed) engine mount brackets to the engine and sat it in place on the cross member.
Added a set of heads from your engine, then the headers from Jose's kit. Installed an unmodified radiator so that I would not damage the one you had provided. Also a “dmich fan” in order to check for clearance. I have one inch. (Nice! Huh?).
Made sure of adequate clearance of the headers, and steering before tack welding. Perfect fit.
Next, I need to make sure of the measurements of the distance between the T5 tail shaft and yoke on the Alpine SV rear end so I can get the driveshaft made. I have a wag of 32” so far. Remember the "long tubular package you gave me? The drive shaft? Yes that is where I get the 90 Thunderbird front yoke Jose recommended! After opening the container I discovered it was marked as a '88 T-bird Driveshaft. It had a huge collar making it to big for the Alpine. Thanks for having it available anyway. Cline Co of Greenville, SC was able to remove the collar and use the Yoke.
I have made Pictures of what progress that has been made so far on the Green1. I will make available later on.
When I get the measurements for the drive shaft, I will remove all of the Mock-up stuff and start the body work. A long process for me!
Now it's back and forth between the Red GT and the Green1 and occasionally working on my others?
Up date as of June 28, 2014: Dropped the engine parts off at Simmons machine in Charleston, SC for balancing Wednesday past. Due for pick-up in about two weeks.
As I was tearing down the Green1's V6 engine at the Machine Shop in Greenwood, SC, I discovered a major problem, the cam was too small for the engine cam journals and cam and timing gear was able to wobble around (Have two segments on video). The engine is a late model V6 (Bronco II '84) and the cam is for the Mustang II. The cam Journals are certainly different.
Picked up my driveshaft for Green1 from the Cline Co in Greenville, SC. Looks nice. I had two made while at it (the second was for my '65 SIV BW35 GT conversion. One new front yoke and four U-joints, Total cost $368.96 for the two.
Update as of July 12, 2014
Took/towed the Green1 to a radiator shop in Anderson (Gerald's Radiator) to have the "modified" radiator modified to fit the "modified" Thermostat Housing Outlet that had been "fixed" for a heater option. I had to also modify it to allow a heater hose connection. I did this by tapping a pipe thread into the side of the housing where I have seen some factory heater hose connections on I believe the Capri's (?) It works nicely.
Let me know what you think of the progress made so far and if you have any questions.
Keep’em-on-the-Road,
My GT is awaiting some Header work where I have made contact with an outfit that builds custom headers. I have designed a set that will run straight back (Not out the side). Probably put them on both cars the Green1 and the Red GT for starters.
Sam, During the process of inspecting the Green1 I discovered several areas that are in need of some extensive work (due to rust). I am not complaining! Just stating some hard facts. When you get to the comments on the engine, I have some PIC's that confirm my findings. Again, it is not to complain! Just something that I found and needed correction. Otherwise it would have damaged the engine when running. As I said before, I am happy with the deal and have proceeded with the V6 Conversion. During the process I have made a few modifications to "improve" the Conversion (s). Mainly the headers and engine mounts. The Engine Mounts are my design entirely. I believe they are easier to make, simpler to install and sit squarely on the cross member utilizing a much larger biscuit without changing the engine height and if used in conjunction with the T5 bracket there is "NO Trial and Error" in placing the V6 engine on the crossmember.
The following is a narrative of my findings, remarks and work thus far on the Green1: My Rotisserie is tied up with the 1965 Early Series IV BW35(AT) GT undergoing V6 Conversion and exhaust work so I borrowed a friends rotisserie. It will also take lots of work to get it modified to work with the Green 1 or any of my other Alpines. That portion of the project will have to wait awhile, so, after making room for the Green1 in one of my shops I was finally able to start taking it apart.
I started by removing the hood. Found some major rust in the area between the hood hinges. Both hood hinges are good. Then trunk lid. Springs and arms good shape. Hinges fair to good drivers., But, I will have them re-chromed!
The Fuel tanks and associated pipes and pieces were in good condition. Very surprising in that they are nearly always showing some rust on the bottoms. Brackets for the tanks have a good original paint (Colour Code 86). Squirrel/chipmunk/rat nest etc., stuff added up to about two gallons of trash. The bottom sheet metal in trunk area appears fairly good. One of the former PO’s had made a couple of patches to deal with rust. Nothing major. Of course the Rubber hose pieces will be ordered new. The clamps are original and like new.
Removed wiper and washer bezels . Busted the LH wiper bezel because of rust and corrosion. They need replacing! I removed the windshield frame. It is rusted very badly on both sides near the door post. Probably will be replaced with a better frame from a donor car.
The Heater core appears good (anyone need a good one $10 +shipping). Removed the outside vent covers which were in good condition.
The Tail lights and park/turn signal lights are good drivers. The PO had cut the wiring in the car where it was no longer usable except for the head lights, park/running lights, and horn wires. The wiring from the front that provides power to the tail lights and fuel tank gauge were there and in good condition. A complete wiring harness plus a nice panel and Gauges came with the Green1.
Next I started by removing the drivers side door, man those hinge bolts/screws just don't like being removed. Special hammer tool only way to go. The door glass was busted. Bottom of the door on the inside rusted very badly. Outside not so bad. Possibly need a donor door ! One screw has refused to budge! Soaking in WD40 on a frequent basis.
Window vent glasses in both doors are in good condition, the chrome fair to good and I can clean them to be a nice pieces except for the bottom pieces under the vent, both need re chroming. There is the usual rust and screws stripped.
Went to passenger side door, much better condition. Free of rust! I was able to save the door glass and track mechanism. Again, much trouble getting the screws out of the hinges. Usual rusty pieces and screws stripping off when removal attempted. Stripped out the old tar paper from doors and removed a lot of crud from years of accumulation.
Both window mechanisms are in nice condition. Door pulls are in great shape.
Outside door handles needs re-chroming, otherwise good drivers. However, they will get re-chromed.
Removed the crossover linkage to the steering and replaced with the piece from Jose's kit that you purchased back in 2007.
Remember, I have the engine on a stand in my "1 shop, free of grit, grim and dust. It has central heat and Air where I spend most of my time on my cars. It is here that I recently took time to look at the Green1's V6 engine a bit more closely. I noticed small metal shavings around the valve covers some time back, became curious, so, I removed the covers and found shavings in the oil return valleys. Removed the 4 bbl Intake manifold and found some inside the valley area around the lifters. Had a discussion with my Machine Shop guy who advised me to remove the oil pan also. That done, I found some additional shavings and crud from when the engine was being built. Sam, I'm not sure where you purchased the engine but would like to know if you remember. Can't find it in the papers you provided. At this point for safety, I started a disassembly of the entire engine.
My Shop Guy says it was not balanced during re-build. So off to the Machine Shop in Charleston, SC for balancing like I did my other V6. $175.00 is an expense well worth the money and time to get it done right!
After stripping the Alpine except the front and rear end running gear from the car, I started installing a “Mock-up” engine block w/timing cover (TC), water pump, bell housing and the T5 you had purchased.
With the “mock-up” in the car, I fastened Jose’s Transmission (manual) Bracket(Not slotted at this time) that was in the Kit you bought back in 2007 in place, fastened my (designed) engine mount brackets to the engine and sat it in place on the cross member.
Added a set of heads from your engine, then the headers from Jose's kit. Installed an unmodified radiator so that I would not damage the one you had provided. Also a “dmich fan” in order to check for clearance. I have one inch. (Nice! Huh?).
Made sure of adequate clearance of the headers, and steering before tack welding. Perfect fit.
Next, I need to make sure of the measurements of the distance between the T5 tail shaft and yoke on the Alpine SV rear end so I can get the driveshaft made. I have a wag of 32” so far. Remember the "long tubular package you gave me? The drive shaft? Yes that is where I get the 90 Thunderbird front yoke Jose recommended! After opening the container I discovered it was marked as a '88 T-bird Driveshaft. It had a huge collar making it to big for the Alpine. Thanks for having it available anyway. Cline Co of Greenville, SC was able to remove the collar and use the Yoke.
I have made Pictures of what progress that has been made so far on the Green1. I will make available later on.
When I get the measurements for the drive shaft, I will remove all of the Mock-up stuff and start the body work. A long process for me!
Now it's back and forth between the Red GT and the Green1 and occasionally working on my others?
Up date as of June 28, 2014: Dropped the engine parts off at Simmons machine in Charleston, SC for balancing Wednesday past. Due for pick-up in about two weeks.
As I was tearing down the Green1's V6 engine at the Machine Shop in Greenwood, SC, I discovered a major problem, the cam was too small for the engine cam journals and cam and timing gear was able to wobble around (Have two segments on video). The engine is a late model V6 (Bronco II '84) and the cam is for the Mustang II. The cam Journals are certainly different.
Picked up my driveshaft for Green1 from the Cline Co in Greenville, SC. Looks nice. I had two made while at it (the second was for my '65 SIV BW35 GT conversion. One new front yoke and four U-joints, Total cost $368.96 for the two.
Update as of July 12, 2014
Took/towed the Green1 to a radiator shop in Anderson (Gerald's Radiator) to have the "modified" radiator modified to fit the "modified" Thermostat Housing Outlet that had been "fixed" for a heater option. I had to also modify it to allow a heater hose connection. I did this by tapping a pipe thread into the side of the housing where I have seen some factory heater hose connections on I believe the Capri's (?) It works nicely.
Let me know what you think of the progress made so far and if you have any questions.
Keep’em-on-the-Road,
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