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Run In Recommendations

mamoose124

mamoose124

Gold Level Sponsor
I ran a search on this site for Run In requirements for a rebuilt engine but could not find any.
I read somewhere the following recommendations for running in a rebuilt engine:
1. Run engine for 300 miles, change the oil & filter.
2 Let the engine cool completely, remove rocker assembly and torque head bolts
4 Run the engine for 700 miles (1,000 total) and repeat the previous steps.

Does this seem about right to you fellows?
 
puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
I’m not sure the second retorque is needed, and I’d probably let the first run go to 500 miles and the second to 1000, but that sounds reasonable. Don’t forget that you first need to run in a new cam at about 2000 rpms for about 10-15 minutes before you do any driving.

Also, I use conventional oils for my first 1000 miles, then Mobil 1 thereafter. Seems to have worked well in my builds.
 
260Alpine

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
I do a 20 minute cam breakin at around 2000 RPM. Retorque (check) intake, heads and exhaust. Visually inspect front cover, water pump, oil pan and all belts and hoses. At 500 miles, change oil and filter and do the same as above again. Regular oil change intervals and same inspection as above once a year, usually before winter when I also check anti-freeze and battery connections. May be overkill, but have been doing it this way for over 40 years.
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
I think you need to be sure that your oil has plenty of ZDDP, or add some, at least for the cam break in and probably going forward.

Tom
 
65beam

65beam

Donation Time
One of the problems with Valvoline VR 1 is that it is blended with an additive package that is intended to hold up under racing conditions but the additive package wears out and is used up quickly. I would never try to use it for a period of a few thousand miles.
 
Gordon Holsinger

Gordon Holsinger

Diamond Level Sponsor
65beam said:
One of the problems with Valvoline VR 1 is that it is blended with an additive package that is intended to hold up under racing conditions but the additive package wears out and is used up quickly. I would never try to use it for a period of a few thousand miles.
Click to expand...
Bob, I would not use it on the street I agree with you there but for an initial fire up and break in of 300 miles I think it would be ok. There is one other draw back it is expensive our cars are no longer daily drivers.
 
65beam

65beam

Donation Time
Al,
Brad Penn is a great product and is now owned by DA Lubricants. You'll find many brands of oil on the shelf and if you look close you'll find that they carry the current SN spec. They're backwards compatible with earlier specs. For normal driving use any oil that carries the current API spec of SN. If you think you need more ZDDP just add a bottle.
 
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jdoclogan

jdoclogan

Platinum Level Sponsor
Jim, I agree and use your technique as well. Bob, I agree with using Brad Penn, it is an excellnt oil with 1500 ppm of zinc. As a Mercedes mechanic told me 50 years ago, "They don't make a perfect oil. If they did we wouldn't have any mechanical engine wear. Make sure you always change it every year or at regular intervals depending on use."
 
Tim R

Tim R

Silver Level Sponsor
The process that we follow with all of our Alpines is shown in the engine rebuild video on The Sunbeam Alpine Channel on YouTube. If you just want the information on Cylinder Head torquing there is a specific video for that.
We re-torque after the initial running of the engine for 300 miles and then again subsequently when running in is complete. Our Alpines are still used quite frequently and cover up to 15,000 miles year. We have never had a problem with an engine rebuilt and run in in this way. We believe that re-torquing the Head (and doing it as shown not just be tightening it further) is absolutely critical for the long life of the engine.


Tim R
 
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65beam

65beam

Donation Time
QUOTE="jdoclogan, post: 198902, member: 690"]So you never have to change out the oil? That is amazing!! The perfect oil![/QUOT[/QUOTE]
jdoclogan said:
So you never have to change out the oil? That is amazing!! The perfect oil!
Click to expand...
That's entirely up to you.
 
jdoclogan

jdoclogan

Platinum Level Sponsor
I guess I will just keep doing what every car manufacture suggest. Change the oil because it isn't perfect forever.
 
jdoclogan

jdoclogan

Platinum Level Sponsor
Too funny Bob. Good news, I have waste oil burners in my shops and I get highest and best use from my oil purchases. Plus, having nine semi-tanker trucks, excavator, backhoe, grader, three F350s and 15 collector cars requires a lot of oil.
 
65beam

65beam

Donation Time
Glad to hear you manage it" cradle to grave". Many don't do that. I found" Clean Burn" to be the best used oil burners. Several years ago I installed them in our truck shop and they have been excellent. We sell used oil for heating now. It sounds like your fleet would give you a clean source of heating oil.
 
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jdoclogan

jdoclogan

Platinum Level Sponsor
Alright Bill, that is good humor on the grammatical sequence.

Clean Burn are good units and are compact (approximately 3' to striker plate). However, Clean Burn units take a hit (hit get it?) with the wear on the striker plate that decelerates the burning molecules. I run Shenandoah/Fire Lakes with the long body stainless steel tubes (8' to striker plate). This allows burning molecules to loose momentum before hitting the small striker plate ( they never need replacing).
 
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