Rotisserie (and mounting an Alpine on one)

[Hillman]

After losing my SII to fire, I want to get my SV V6 finished. I bought one of these ( https://www.resto-revolver.ca/ today. It's new in the box, the guy died unexpectedly and his wife really wanted it gone.

I searched the forum but didn't see anthing on how to mount an Alpine. I thought I'd weld up a mount: ~1 inch square tubing into the jack points and use the bumper bolt hole to hold it tight. Does that seem reasonable? If not, how did others do it?

 

[Barry]

After losing my SII to fire, I want to get my SV V6 finished. I bought one of these ( https://www.resto-revolver.ca/ today. It's new in the box, the guy died unexpectedly and his wife really wanted it gone.

I searched the forum but didn't see anthing on how to mount an Alpine. I thought I'd weld up a mount: ~1 inch square tubing into the jack points and use the bumper bolt hole to hold it tight. Does that seem reasonable? If not, how did others do it?

That is what I would do, but the jack "holes" on my S-V are only about 7/8" square.

The 7/8" square tubing I have found is only 0.065" (16 gauge) wall thickness, so maybe 0.120" / 11 gauge 3/4" square tubing with a 1/16" strip tacked on all 4 sides to get a good fit in the jack holes.

 

[Dens10]

I just used the bumper bolts by them self and it worked . Mine had a lot of welding done
and after it all done the doors fit good . I did have the doors of went it was on the rotisserie and I
made supports that when for the top hinge to the latch area .

 

[Alpine 1789]

I don't have the dimensions handy, but I was able to buy solid bar stock of the correct size when I made my rotisserie. I tacked them to the support bar and then had them professionally welded as the steel was too thick for my welder. I wouldn't trust the bumper b0lts for anything other than holding the support bar in place; too many of them have been pulled out by people towing their cars by the bumpers.

 

[DanR]

The rotisserie I made was from some plans I found on the web. Very nice and strong cost less than $750 to build, best investment I have made in a while.

But, they did not provide any idea of how to fit to the Alpine.... So, I made mine from 1" solid stock and some plate with a hole for the bumper bolt to secure the bracket to the Alpine and another hole in the 1" solid stock for the bolt to the Rotisserie bracket. Some PIC's are included. If you nee more just ask.

 

[Alpine 1789]

There are a couple of good rotisserie plans available online; the plans for the mounting bars might help you.
http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/MenkeRotis/rt-MenkeRotis1.asp
http://teae.org/rotisserie/

 

[Hillman]

Thanks all.

Dan R. That was about what I was thinking of doing.

 

[DanR]

Hillman, The 1" solid bar that serves as a means of fastening to the rotisserie, I also use to hook up my tow bar.

 

[canuck pride]

I can't seem to find my pics for my rotisserie but I used the jacking holes and 2 engine stands that when facing each other had a long peace of angle hooked to each of the front legs of the stands. With car completely gutted I found this worked great.

 

[Hillman]

I got the machine today. I like Dan's mounting bracket and am planning to make something similar. Another silly question: any idea where the center of gravity is on a stripped Alpine, with and without rear end and front x-member. I have about 20" of adjustment for weight centering, but thought it might be a lot easier to mount the car, turn it upside down and use an engine hoist to remove those parts. I'm guessing with them its well below the jack points and without them near the jack points. Any experiences?

Thanks

 

[Mike O'D]

With it stripped down, approximately the lower edge of the grill opening. Yes, much easier to remove those parts with the car upside down on the rotisserie. With complete front end, trans and rear end it was about at the jack points (front - with car approx. level) . It doesn't move as much as you think - those components are very close to the centerline.

Mike