Requesting how-to and advice to take apart conv WS latch to have re-chromed

[boss-tiger]

Have a pair of convertible top to windshield latches that need to be re-chromed. Hoping someone may have some advice re. taking them apart and where would I get the long hinge pin (or whatever it is called). Also looks like the long pin was pressed on outside somehow.


Any advise would be appreciated . Thanks

 

[DanR]

I have done several by carefully taking a punch just a tad smaller in dia than the pin holding pieces together, set is a position that will allow for the pin to be driven out, (Helps to have another set of hands), tap slightly the punch while aligned perfectly over the pin using a small hammer without destroying the piece you wish to rechrome.

I could maybe send you a few PIC's, But you probably have the idea.

 

[boss-tiger]

Thanks, when you took apart main large clamp with long narrow hinge pin apart ? what did you use to put it back together after re-chroming

 

[boss-tiger]

I have assumed I can get it apart and good news is I only need to chrome the large face part (base and swing arm chrome in good shape. Just don't know what I would use to put it back together or even what to call that long hinge pin thing to try and Google search for the part (pretty much find anything on Google - ha, assuming you know what to call it)

 

[DanR]

I have utilized stainless rod cut to a length slightly long enough to "brad"the ends, then polish them smooth

 

[boss-tiger]

Great idea using a stainless rod. To brad the ends any suggestions, my thinking stainless would be fairly strong and would put up a fight to brad (never tried of course). Great help, sure appreciate your time

 

[DanR]

Think I used a center punch, after I got the length that was where it would or could be braded (the ends of the pins spread), enough to keep the clamp together.

Hope I'm making sense?

 

[Ken Ellis]

Stainless is kind of soft and gummy until it work hardens, then it becomes tougher. One approach would be to drill just a bit into each end of the rod, just with the point of the drill, making a conical divot with no sidewall depth to speak of. Then, when you punch it, it'll be easier to make it spread from an accurate center. Won't take much spread for it to want to stay in its place.

Another tip might be to set up a 'point' with one punch on the bottom (in the divot) and another at the top. That way, each end gets dimpled at the same time, and there would be less tendency for it to migrate out of place. Note that multiple hands and/or a vise would be required to keep things in alignment...

 

[DanR]

Thanks Ken for that very good "How To".

 

[Barry]

Which comes first, the drill or the centerpunch? Right up there with the chicken and the egg!

 

[Ken Ellis]

Ha! Indeed a conundrum. My recommendation was focused on being able to take care of centering location in advance of full assembly (which was unstated, sadly) and before you start worrying about holding it well enough to hit it hard enough to slightly mushroom out the end of the pin. Start with a prick punch, then a light center punch to locate, then just a 'kiss' with the drill.

 

[65beam]

You could take the latches to the plating shop and let them do their thing. I use a shop called LiBrandi's in Harrisburg,Pa that ,like most shops have the means to either separate the pieces or plate with out disassembly. The Harrington hatch supports are a 4 piece unit and due to the rivets used to fasten everything together they decided to plate as a unit instead of separating. They have plated quite a few top latches for me over the years and they pressed the pins out and either replaced or reused. Sometimes the clearance on the parts is tight to start with so letting the shop handle the work allows them to make adjustments so the latches are usable. It's worth it to ask the shop you are thinking about using.

 

[boss-tiger]

Asked and answered - thank you very much.