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Removing Chrome
- Thread starter Bill Blue
- Start date
mikephillips
Donation Time
Are these parts to be rechromed or painted or some other finish?? If they're to be rechromed I'd say electro chemical so as to require the least possible repolishing of the original surface.
None of the above. I'm going to try a ceramic stainless steel finish. The directions specify application over a sand blast finish. I guess the logical question then becomes "Is sandblasting an effective way to remove chrome?" I've never tried it, not even accidentally.
The stuff is designed for use on headers, but can be polished after baking.
Bill
The stuff is designed for use on headers, but can be polished after baking.
Bill
mikephillips
Donation Time
What bits are we talking about?? Most of the smaller stuff is pot metal or brass underneath and even of sand blasting worked I'd worry about destroying the detail and surface. Bumpers might be ok, although I don't know if anything other than rust removal blasting would actually take the chrome off. I'd say that the best bet other than chemical removal would be something like Eastwood's polishing kit where you get several different grits of sanding belts used for taking rough castings and polishing out the surface.
L
Lee DeRamus saoca0404
Quite a few years ago, when I was young and really stupid, I used battery acid. I have a 69 BSA that the headlight mounting "ears" had been chromed by the provious owner. The chrome was rusting, so I bought a gallon of battery acid, and put them in a plastic pan, covering them with acid. It did work, but these parts are steel. It left a flat grey matt look on them, much like sand blasting. I then soaked them in water with baking soda. After polishing on a soft wire weel, I painted them black. That was almost 40 years ago, and they still look good. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PROCESS. I did this outside, with rubber gloves, and a respirator. It is easier, and a lot safer to bring the parts to a chrome shop and have them remove the old chrome. Aluminum and pot metal would be destroyed instantly.
I waited to hijack Bill's thread until I was sure it was over. This is a question I have been meaning to ask for a long time, but for a different application. I have an extremely nice early valve cover (SUNBEAM + "S") that I bought many years ago. It was painted black when I bought it, but turned out to have been chromed at some point in its life. Unfortunately, about a third of the chrome had flaked off. Is there a way to remove the rest? I am afraid sanding would ruin the cover.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Jan, unless it is hard chrome, which is an industrial use and not used in decorative chrome plating, there is nickel underneath. The chrome plating on shiny chrome plated parts is only a few microns thick. Just enough to add bling to the nickel plate.
Bill
I have been down this road several times.
You can aggressively media blast plating to remove it.
You can grind it away, you can sand it...if you have tons of time and sandpaper...not recommended.
You can chemically strip it...but it's very dangerous and you are left with hazardous waste to dispose of. I tried it and would never do it again.
The best and most economical way is to buy replacement (unplated) parts if possible. Otherwise if the plating isn't flaking, blast it to rough up the surface then prep and paint.
A chrome plating shop can strip it...but be prepared to spend $$$$.
I had written out a longer more detailed post...but for some reason it didn't make it to the forum....if you want to discuss my experiences then contact me directly.
Paul
You can aggressively media blast plating to remove it.
You can grind it away, you can sand it...if you have tons of time and sandpaper...not recommended.
You can chemically strip it...but it's very dangerous and you are left with hazardous waste to dispose of. I tried it and would never do it again.
The best and most economical way is to buy replacement (unplated) parts if possible. Otherwise if the plating isn't flaking, blast it to rough up the surface then prep and paint.
A chrome plating shop can strip it...but be prepared to spend $$$$.
I had written out a longer more detailed post...but for some reason it didn't make it to the forum....if you want to discuss my experiences then contact me directly.
Paul
I ran across this recipe for removing chrome plated Rayo lamps, I figure it should work, but will consider any comments:
1. Degrease part.
2. Mix i cup of muriatic acid into 3 gallons water.
3. Hang 2 or 3 #12 copper wires around sides of bucket.
4. Connect these wires to 12v. ground.
5. Connect part to 12v. pos., immerse into acid solution.
Part should dechrome in a few seconds to few minutes. Rinse in soda water water to neutralize.
I think that using a weak muriatic acid solution with aluminum would not be a problem. Aluminum is not terribly reactive with acids. Usually just cleans the aluminum. It is very reactive with caustics.
By the way, all such experiments should be conducted outdoors!
Bill
1. Degrease part.
2. Mix i cup of muriatic acid into 3 gallons water.
3. Hang 2 or 3 #12 copper wires around sides of bucket.
4. Connect these wires to 12v. ground.
5. Connect part to 12v. pos., immerse into acid solution.
Part should dechrome in a few seconds to few minutes. Rinse in soda water water to neutralize.
I think that using a weak muriatic acid solution with aluminum would not be a problem. Aluminum is not terribly reactive with acids. Usually just cleans the aluminum. It is very reactive with caustics.
By the way, all such experiments should be conducted outdoors!
Bill
A good website to visit is...
http://www.caswellplating.com/
...and they have a forum there.
Diluted Muratic Acid will work with or without battery power. Your parts will have a yellowish tint to them because of the nickel. You will need to then strip the nickel plating.
Muratic Acid can be found at home improvement and hardware stores, and it will not harm aluminum.
Paul
http://www.caswellplating.com/
...and they have a forum there.
Diluted Muratic Acid will work with or without battery power. Your parts will have a yellowish tint to them because of the nickel. You will need to then strip the nickel plating.
Muratic Acid can be found at home improvement and hardware stores, and it will not harm aluminum.
Paul
L
Lee DeRamus saoca0404
First, Be sure you do not confuse Muratic acid for the battery acid I used. If you put a small drop of battery acid on aluminum, you can watch it self destruct.
The best product I have found to paint over chrome, is a bake on epoxy called Gun Kote. The parts have to be degreased, and pre heated to about 150 deg. This comes in spray cans or liquid, and a small amount goes a long way. It dries on contact, and if you have a run or it lookes "frosted" just put it pack in the oven and recoat. After a couple of coats, it has to be baked at 350 deg. for an hour. It can be sanded off, but with dificulty. It can be painted over with any color. It comes in Matte Black, Glosss Black, Matte Brushed Stainless, Matte Grey, and Gloss Gunmetal Blue. You can find it at www.brownells.com. It is also reduces friction. Harley Davidson has been fooling around with this for at least 15 years. They degrease all interior engine parts, and spray and bake them. I have a 1979 Harley made when the bowling ball company, AMF, owned the company. They have a horrible reputation, but mine after having this done, has 135,000 miles on the engine. It fills all of the microscopic pores and scratches in all metal and acts almost like teflon. It also workes well as a paint for aluminum. No acid etch or special primers, like the green stuff, that in my senior monment can't remember the name of. Zink Phosphate?? I don't know.
Lee
The best product I have found to paint over chrome, is a bake on epoxy called Gun Kote. The parts have to be degreased, and pre heated to about 150 deg. This comes in spray cans or liquid, and a small amount goes a long way. It dries on contact, and if you have a run or it lookes "frosted" just put it pack in the oven and recoat. After a couple of coats, it has to be baked at 350 deg. for an hour. It can be sanded off, but with dificulty. It can be painted over with any color. It comes in Matte Black, Glosss Black, Matte Brushed Stainless, Matte Grey, and Gloss Gunmetal Blue. You can find it at www.brownells.com. It is also reduces friction. Harley Davidson has been fooling around with this for at least 15 years. They degrease all interior engine parts, and spray and bake them. I have a 1979 Harley made when the bowling ball company, AMF, owned the company. They have a horrible reputation, but mine after having this done, has 135,000 miles on the engine. It fills all of the microscopic pores and scratches in all metal and acts almost like teflon. It also workes well as a paint for aluminum. No acid etch or special primers, like the green stuff, that in my senior monment can't remember the name of. Zink Phosphate?? I don't know.
Lee
Lee, my problem is the chrome on the parts is in very rough shape. I don't think smooth chrome would be a problem. I'd just it hit with a quick, low pressure sand blast to gain some tooth and refinish.
After mucking through the caswell site, I saw a post where a guy said the muriatic acid electro-deplating should remove most any plating. Am going to give it a try on a junk piece.
Bill
After mucking through the caswell site, I saw a post where a guy said the muriatic acid electro-deplating should remove most any plating. Am going to give it a try on a junk piece.
Bill
Its not high on my list of priorities right now, but I will also give the muriatic acid electro-deplating a try on the valve cover. I figure I have nothing to lose, as it is pretty unusable as is.