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Reinforcement tube

Kristian Jonsson

Donation Time
The reinforcement tube on the left side seems to be in the way for the DCOE carburetor tubes (if you have the long ones). Has anyone tried to move or bend them sideways.
Has anyone replaced them with something else. (More effective?)
 
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Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
Most owners just remove them, although that is probably not the best solution. The alternative, which several have done, is to either fabricate a totally new one (for example, with a curved cross bar to clear the carbs) or modify a stock one so that the angle is sharper and it misses the carb. There are probably some photos around, but I don't know where they are off hand. hopefully, someone else can lay their hands on them.
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
Here is a photo of Bill Attalla's Harrington. Note the curved bar, which appears to just barely clear the air horn.

1961-Sunbeam-Alpine-Harrington-12.jpg
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
If you have the DCOE RHD manifold, it will not clear the scuttle brace. There are LHD manifolds that were made. The picture above is the wrong manifold for LHD Alpines, that's why he had to fudge it into a bend.
Jan
 

Jay Laifman

Donation Time
I bought my manifold from TWM (The Weber Man) back in 1988 - at the time, it was based in Goleta and doing Weber installations for US customers. My Webers do fit with the stock cross bar, where I have the smallest of "relief" in one of the velocity stacks. Note though that I believe I had the last manifold made with that mold before it was lost. There was a group of Alpine owners who had to commission TWM to make a whole new one after me. So there is no telling if the later TWM manifolds are the same.

HOWEVER, (1) even though it fits, that does not allow for an air cleaner, and (2) I'm now running longer velocity stacks and they definitely would have hit it.

I took off my cross bar when I decided air cleaners were more important than cool looking stacks on a car that is regularly driven. FWIW, I'm running UNI air cleaner foam covers that go on each stack.

OK, but here's the thing. I did a lot of research back then. I don't know where I found it. But I found a write up that did not have to do with Webers. It was a story about the history of the Alpine. The car was NOT designed to have these crossbars. Those were not added until pre-production when there was some shuttle shaking in the car - not because of cracking or anything else. One would therefore conclude, as I did, that if the bars are removed and there is no shaking, there is no reason to keep them. Again, remember, the car was not designed to have them to begin with, it was just an afterthought band-aid. Well, I can tell you that I get no shuttle shake at all. So I suspect whatever they thought they had, it wasn't caused by the lack of the braces.

Note, I have had shuttle shake. It has always been remedied by new tires, balanced wheels or wire wheels needing to be trued. Otherwise, in the 30 years I've been running without the bar, I've had no issue. Rootes got misdirected somehow.

Here is another point to consider. My father was an engineer, a real rocket scientist actually. He pointed out that for a brace to work, it needs to be straight. Any curve or bend will pretty much eliminate the structural benefit. Did he do a full analysis? No. Could a bent or curved rod provide something more than nothing? Maybe. But since I have no problem, I see no reason to bother with a marginal idea.
 
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Jay Laifman

Donation Time
Actually, on the LHD and RHD issue, I'm not sure I know that there is a difference in manifolds for that for the cross bar. I think the difference may be for the steering box. The bottom of my rear Weber hit the forward right bolt head on the LHD steering box. I solved that by taking out the bolt itself, countersinking the hole for it, and using a countersunk bolt instead. That's all it needed. Perhaps there are intakes that are angled up a little so that's not an issue on LHD cars.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
There are a few ways..
Bend the bar or flatten it if using the stock location.
Make an arced one per the ex-Bill A car in the photos...
Or cut the mounting hat off the inner guard and move it higher up amd reangle the the scuttle brace.
 
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