• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

Reason for frozen calipers

M

mikephillips

Donation Time
Not the worst I've run across. I brought a set to Invasion I'd disassembled that a professional brake shop had given back to me as they couldn't get them out. Notice that the bottom half is still in good condition, which means that the bores below the pressure seal should be just fine as well.
 
SIVAllan

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Yes, the bores are Ok. A shop did the work as I've never dealt with such before, and wanted to take no chances.

Are any special tools needed for re-installing the hubs, then calipers?

I've been reading the WSM, and am not sure about reassembly.

Thanks.

Allan
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
No special tools needed. Reassembly is pretty straight forward. Sometimes things are so simple books confuses things. This is one of those times.

Bill
 
M

mikephillips

Donation Time
Pistons should slide into the bores with just the pressure from your fingers. But be aware that there's been problems seen with some seal kits being slightly too small. I know Ian said he'd had to mix them from multiple kits to get a good set and I've got some at home that don't fit.
 
SIVAllan

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Front brakes back on. Not so difficult as expected (keeping fingers crossed).

Master is leaking though, and can't bleed the system.

Took a closer look at the master - it can't be stock...

Anyone recognize the pic? Guess I'll have to obtain a new
brake master.

Allan
 
F

finally

Donation Time
Looks like the Datsun one to me but I'm definitely not an expert. Actually just considering the idea of changing to one that looks like this one.
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Allan, can't see details, but it does look like a Datsun/Nissan. Do the brake lines enter the MC from the clutch side? If so, I'd say it is the F10. If not, well, there seem to be several variations on the style, all for the same era Datsuns. I'd stick with that style if you want to keep the dual hydraulic system.

If you want to replace it, log onto partsamerica.com and look at the master cylinders available for the '70's-80ish Datsuns. They usually give nice illustrations of the actual item. Oh, and look on the side of the cylinder. It is not unusual for the bore size to be cast into it.
Bill
 
SIVAllan

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Bill Blue said:
Allan, can't see details, but it does look like a Datsun/Nissan. Do the brake lines enter the MC from the clutch side? If so, I'd say it is the F10. If not, well, there seem to be several variations on the style, all for the same era Datsuns. I'd stick with that style if you want to keep the dual hydraulic system.

If you want to replace it, log onto partsamerica.com and look at the master cylinders available for the '70's-80ish Datsuns. They usually give nice illustrations of the actual item. Oh, and look on the side of the cylinder. It is not unusual for the bore size to be cast into it.
Bill
Click to expand...

Bill - here's a better pic. The brake lines enter from the bottom of the MC; the MC has bleed screws on the clutch side.

The MC doesn't say what make (might still be found as road grime is removed) but it does say R and F on the clutch side of the bore, and also says "7/8."

Isn't 3/4 the best size?

Also there is an added brake line junction box ahead of the stock junction box. I guess the extra coupler box is to enable two brake lines from the MC to merge into the brake hydraulic system...?

Looks like we FINALLY get some rain today to break the draught, so I will have some time to visit the site you mentioned and maybe find out some options.

IF the MC can be made to work Ok, I'd just as soon keep it.

Allan
 
sunbby

sunbby

Past SAOCA President
Donation Time
SIVAllan said:
The MC doesn't say what make (might still be found as road grime is removed) but it does say R and F on the clutch side of the bore, and also says "7/8."

Isn't 3/4 the best size?
Click to expand...

Depends, are you planning on leaving the booster off or did you reinstall one? No booster - smaller bore, booster - bigger bore.

SIVAllan said:
Also there is an added brake line junction box ahead of the stock junction box. I guess the extra coupler box is to enable two brake lines from the MC to merge into the brake hydraulic system...?
Click to expand...

It's nice to see someone else's car with crazy stuff going on instead of just seeing the crazy stuff on mine. :)

I believe that dual master should be used to isolate the front and rear brake circuits. Not sure what that extra junction does, can you tell where all of the lines leaving it lead to? It may be some type of brake bias unit, leaving the front and rear isolated but adjusting the front/rear bias.
 
SIVAllan

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Todd - I plan to reinstall a stock booster as budget allows, so I guess the 7/8 is Ok.

It quit raining, only briefly I hope given our draught, and I took a better look at the mystery junction box.

It says: KH 9819D. The top says "F" the bottom has an arrow ( --> ).

One MC line goes to the junction box's top; the other to the junction box's bottom.

The box's very top goes to the stock junction box; the box's F goes also to the stock junction box; the box's bottom line goes to the front passenger side caliper.

Thanks!


Allan
 
Jim E

Jim E

Donation Time
Stock booster requies a single circuit M/C or you need two boosters. Just something to keep in mind.
 
SIVAllan

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Jim E said:
Stock booster requies a single circuit M/C or you need two boosters. Just something to keep in mind.
Click to expand...

Whoa! Thanks for that!

I sure don't want two boosters!

What is the downside of a 7/8 bore dual MC and NO booster? (assuming I can identify it and get a rebuild kit...)

I have access to a rough stock MC off a SV; does that setup with a booster work better?

Allan
 
F

finally

Donation Time
I've seen several slightly differing ones for the Datsuns depending on the aftermarket maker.

After searching multiple sites I figured that even though some had dual resevoirs, some single, and all were shaped slightly different they were for the same application. So its hard to tell if its actually different or not just from looking at the one website is what I'm trying to say with way too many words...

Anyway, I'm considering switching to one of these myself. Probably make the brake line routes a little simpler than yours though!
 
SIVAllan

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
After looking some more, I am beginning to think the one the S IV has was for a 240Z, or a later Z car.
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
The 7/8" bore will give a hard pedal. If you do not plan to use a booster, 3/4" is probably the max, unless you have really strong legs. 5/8" or 11/16" are probably close to ideal. Most seem to be satisfied with 3/4".

And yes, for all practical purposes, you are going to have to choose between power brakes and dual circuit. Now is the perfect time to make that decision. As to which works better, that depends on your criteria. You will not stop any quicker with a booster. Just requires less effort. The dual setup has a degree of redundancy built in and is much less prone to failure.

You pays your money and you takes your choice.

Bill
 
SIVAllan

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Thanks, everyone.

Guess I have some thinking to do:confused: .

I think I'll try and remove a MC from a SV, and see how that looks on the inside before reaching a final decision. Even though the Air-pine has several non SIV components, all of them are Sunbeam. I sorta like the look.

Allan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top