Putting Alpine on tall jackstands

[Charles Johns]

I am ready to fab transmission mounts but obviously the tranny must be installed, so I need to jack the Alpine up high enough to allow me to work. Because the factory jacking points are at the extreme front/rear I assume putting jacks under the front/rear frame horns near the outer ends is okay. Any problems? I'll install both doors to help keep the openings in shape but don't see a need to weld/bolt bracing front-to-rear. Any problem? The Sunbeam box (area between front/rear frame horns) looks strong but the doors probably help when suspended on jack-stands. I could bolt/weld 1 x 1 box tubing in the door openings and leave the doors off. Anyone done this? I am about to get serious on fabrication of body with floor pan, trans hump, trans mount, firewall, brake pedal, accelerator, shifter, etc. Any problems to look for. My 65 Mustang is a unibody but the only one I have worked on, so asking now is much better than asking AFTER I have a problem. I may have told you about my buddy Barry and his 40 Studebaker coupe called "The Elongated Hole" race car. They modified the frame so much nothing lined up when the body went back on...thus the strange name. At the track the announcer refused to mention the name...thinking it must be obscene. Sometimes we read more into a name than is actually there.

 

[sunalp]

Where you want to put the jack stands shouldn't cause any problems as long
as the frame on the car is sound. I usually put them on the rear axle, but that tends to compress
when the weight is put on it. Just make sure you put some safety supports ( tires or sometimes
tree stumps) under the car in case of jack stand failure. Once you have the car in the air on the
stands, give the car a good shake to see how stable it is.

Alpines are amazingly strong cars. As long as the X frame is solid you should be OK. I had a parts
car that had no outer rocker panels and rotted floors, but the doors still opened and closed nicely.
If your doors don't sag now, you should be OK.

Cheers and have fun!
Steve

 

[phyrman]

If the wheels are still on the car, I also block under them for added protection of ME!!!

BD

 

[Charles Johns]

I will remove the wheels to allow access to fender wells, brakes, brake lines, and rear suspension parts. It will probably be on the stands for several months. As a driver I will undercoat the chassis, then run brake lines, fuel lines, and wiring looms. Phyrman, I always double check stability of anything on stands or a hoist BEFORE getting under it. The Navy taught me firefighting and first aid and I wanted to be a firefighter as a civilian. Unfortunately the Dallas FD could not hire a White male when I applied in the mid 60's. Strange, discrimination against any minority was/is illegal, but discriminating against a White man is written into our law with Affirmative Action. It seems to me discrimination was not eliminated but simply changed the skin color of the injured party. Sorry I drifted off topic, it just annoys me when I remember those days. THANKS for the help SAOCA.

 

[65beam]

Doug set the Harrington on four stands. Two under the crossmember and two under the rear end. He installed all the lines under the car along with various other little jobs with this set up. When he restores a body he welds a piece of angle from the inner rocker to the X frame across the bend where the front floors turn up to the fire wall. The reason is to add another place for jack stands.

 

[Charles Johns]

Thanks 65beam, I will definitely use jacks in a safe anchoring place and maybe even a couple of extras. Finding square tubing that fits inside the jacking slots may be my best location with a couple of others under the frame extensions. I do not want them under the rear axle because I may remove it while under the car. My main purpose, other than safety, is to make sure the jacks don't get in my way. Many years ago an old guy about my age now, told me to check jack stands every day before starting work under the car.

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Thanks 65beam, I will definitely use jacks in a safe anchoring place and maybe even a couple of extras. Finding square tubing that fits inside the jacking slots may be my best location with a couple of others under the frame extensions. I do not want them under the rear axle because I may remove it while under the car. My main purpose, other than safety, is to make sure the jacks don't get in my way. Many years ago an old guy about my age now, told me to check jack stands every day before starting work under the car.

Charles that is good advice. I have tinkered with cars for the last 55 years. Safety first allways. Working alone many times. I was in an amfibian tractor battalion in the sixties working around heavy trucks and equipment and my Sargent was all about safety. He taught his men well!

 

[65beam]

Thanks 65beam, I will definitely use jacks in a safe anchoring place and maybe even a couple of extras. Finding square tubing that fits inside the jacking slots may be my best location with a couple of others under the frame extensions. I do not want them under the rear axle because I may remove it while under the car. My main purpose, other than safety, is to make sure the jacks don't get in my way. Many years ago an old guy about my age now, told me to check jack stands every day before starting work under the car.

FYI, the square tubing for the jack is maybe two inches in length. Not the best way to support the car.

 

[Limey]

Thanks 65beam, I will definitely use jacks in a safe anchoring place and maybe even a couple of extras. Finding square tubing that fits inside the jacking slots may be my best location with a couple of others under the frame extensions. I do not want them under the rear axle because I may remove it while under the car. My main purpose, other than safety, is to make sure the jacks don't get in my way. Many years ago an old guy about my age now, told me to check jack stands every day before starting work under the car.

Unless the back wheels are down and chocked ( and even then) I suggest you never set your car up like this..Way too narrow placing of crappy narrow footprint axle stands. Get some wide footprint high tonnage stands and place at the extremes of the X or if the axles are out extend to full height and place into the well arches with suitable padding

 

[65beam]

View attachment 18336


Unless the back wheels are down and chocked ( and even then) I suggest you never set your car up like this..Way too narrow placing of crappy narrow footprint axle stands. Get some wide footprint high tonnage stands and place at the extremes of the X or if the axles are out extend to full height and place into the well arches with suitable padding

For those that don't know or are not familiar with professional restoration shops here in the U.S. that specialize in the restoration of Sunbeams only, this is at one of those shops. This is how Doug at Tiger Auto in Dayton works on a car after the body is done. He started his business in the 60's and he prefers this. He has been known to use his two post for things but does this for jobs that would tie up the rack for a period of time. He did the body restoration of Ian Spencer's blue Harrington Alpine, stored and maintained the red LeMans of Bill Condin prior to Ian buying it (now owned by 65 sunbeam). He is well known in the U.S. Sunbeam world. He'll soon be finishing the AF 4 Tiger for Buck Tripple and has restored many Tigers and Alpines over the years. If using these stands is what he wants to do and he is comfortable doing this I don't say anything and the wife writes a check when he's finished. I put blocks under the wheels myself but he doesn't.

 

[Limey]

View attachment 18338 View attachment 18338 View attachment 18338 View attachment 18339 View attachment 18339 I don't doubt his knowledge and skill and good luck to the bloke but he needs to reward himself with a decent work environment and look after his own body. That's not how you prop up a car and I don't care how many cars he's built. My home garage is better set up than that one. ...Walmart florries, army surplus axle stands ( and ratchet ones at that-Christ) and a bare concrete floor.....Poor sod I hope you pay him well

I don't know if you are familiar with European rebuild businesses but I am. My body shop squeezed me in between Bugattis (note the proper axle stands) and my paint shop squeezed me in between... you guessed it, Bugattis. I have a pretty good idea what a proper 'shop' looks like...

 

[65beam]

View attachment 18342 View attachment 18338 View attachment 18341 View attachment 18338 View attachment 18338 View attachment 18339 View attachment 18339 I don't doubt his knowledge and skill and good luck to the bloke but he needs to reward himself with a decent work environment and look after his own body. That's not how you prop up a car and I don't care how many cars he's built. My home garage is better set up than that one. ...Walmart florries, army surplus axle stands ( and ratchet ones at that-Christ) and a bare concrete floor.....Poor sod I hope you pay him well

I don't know if you are familiar with European rebuild businesses but I am. My body shop squeezed me in between Bugattis (note the proper axle stands) and my paint shop squeezed me in between... you guessed it, Bugattis. I have a pretty good idea what a proper 'shop' looks like...

It's all about quality, attention to detail and the end result. How or where it's done shouldn't matter. This photo shows his rack used when doing the welding / body repair.

 

[Charles Johns]

I decided to put 6 ton jacks at the corners of the frame horns. These are jacks I had for my tractor when living on our farm. I am thinking about making extra 2 x 6 bracing to place under the same areas, keeping the jacks in place. One can never be too safe. The jacks are on the frame horns where Sunbeam made the jack anchors. The Esslinger intake with the stock intake shows how the OEM hits the steering box.

 

[65beam]

This photo shows the extra jack stand bracket that Doug added to each car during the body restoration for another point for jack stands.

 

[DanR]

The Esslinger intake with the stock intake shows how the OEM hits the steering box.

Suggest you put additional 1 1/2 to 2" dia washers between the engine mount and the Anchor 2424 to raise the engine which will add clearance for the intake.

 

[DanR]

I can't say I like the idea of placing the jack stands solely under the "jacking points" of the Alpine. There is not sufficient area where the jack stand and the Alpine meet to stay in place should the car move even slightly.

I suggest four other points of support be included for that added safety to your well being.

Someone made some rather inexpensive platforms from 2x4" and 2x6" lumber that is an excellent method of raising the vehicle (Alpine) and retaining at about any height you so desire.

Can't find the POST..... maybe hartmandm ?

 

[DanR]

FOUND IT!! Searched and found the POST under: "Please, be careful"

Here's Mike's PDF

http://mhartman.net/files/sunbeam/OD gearbox installation.pdf

Scroll down to Elevating The Car to begin reading about how and what He did....


Strongly suggest everyone read or reread the post
Please, be careful!
Discussion in '"Stock" Alpine' started by MSiege, Oct 3, 2018.

 

[Warren]

Wow tree stumps, I've done that but not as something to work under. You can see the frame react to the weight. As the old Sunbeam ad says the roof is in the floor. I would hesitate to use the Jack points for anything other than holding the flimsy bumper.
As a general rule leave doors closed on convertibles when lifting . When lifting under the front cross member, Steve A. Made a nice bracket that fits to the floor jack that cups the stamped steel cross member that won't slip off. Most floor Jack's have a center hole inside the cupped lifting point. Great thread guys. Things move and slip especially in Cali. If stacking dimensional lumber bore a couple holes and add some rebar or something from the Simpson hanger rack at Home Depot but consider them secondary protection.

 

[65beam]

Wow tree stumps, I've done that but not as something to work under. You can see the frame react to the weight. As the old Sunbeam ad says the roof is in the floor. I would hesitate to use the Jack points for anything other than holding the flimsy bumper.
As a general rule leave doors closed on convertibles when lifting . When lifting under the front cross member, Steve A. Made a nice bracket that fits to the floor jack that cups the stamped steel cross member that won't slip off. Most floor Jack's have a center hole inside the cupped lifting point. Great thread guys. Things move and slip especially in Cali. If stacking dimensional lumber bore a couple holes and add some rebar or something from the Simpson hanger rack at Home Depot but consider them secondary protection.

Doug built a similar bracket for his floor jack for the front crossmember. Works great for removing the cross member when removing a Tiger engine from the bottom.

 

[Warren]

Doug built a similar bracket for his floor jack for the front crossmember. Works great for removing the cross member when removing a Tiger engine from the bottom.

Probably was discovered by someone who said @#$__& after his oily jack slipped and bashed the valence. I'm a little surprised you don't see one scabbed on to the cross member as a permanent addition. I know several guys who said Doh after the car slipped. If you have room for a second jack the ATV one at Harbor freight is somewhat goof proof...