Pulling the Head

[Green67Alpine]

Bill, Tricky, as in installing the head while typing on the forum, my computer is about 40 ft from the shop !
Anyway, the head is on, the rockers are on, the oil pipe connection was a challenge, but finally fit right up. Tappet cover bolted up with out a problem(so far) And on to the next step ! all that manifold stuff !!

Bill, Remember to "chase" your threads it'll make reassembly easier


Tom J

Who knows? I might even learn something!(if only I can then remember it)

 

[George Coleman]

Just a note! remember that after you have run the engine say 100 miles you need to retorque the head bolts (Cold!) so this head job you have just finished last a long time

 

[P. Scofield]

I think the suggested miles is more like 500?

Just a note! remember that after you have run the engine say 100 miles you need to retorque the head bolts (Cold!) so this head job you have just finished last a long time

 

[Jeff Scoville]

And then re-adjust the valves after re-torqueing.

 

[Jim E]

Then at 800 or 1000 do it again

 

[Bill Tubbs]

Sanding/grinding

Last year I had similar symptoms on my Vogue (same motor as Alpine IV), 'twas the head gasket, aided by some head corrosion, notably around those crescent shaped water passages near the valves. Easily welded up by my local engine shop (use the head gasket as a template to see what size and shape the passages should be)

Cheers, Vic

Assuming I have the same problem and don't need welding up, what's the best way to sand/grind everything flat? There are all kinds of sanding/filing tools available but I don't know what's effective on the engine block.

Bill

 

[Jeff Scoville]

Assuming I have the same problem and don't need welding up, what's the best way to sand/grind everything flat? There are all kinds of sanding/filing tools available but I don't know what's effective on the engine block.

Bill

Bill, the best and truely only tool for the job is a machine shop.

 

[Bill Tubbs]

Machining

Bill, the best and truely only tool for the job is a machine shop.

Well, I can't disagree with you but I plan on keeping the car in my garage and doing the work and really don't want to pull the engine unless it's something worse than the head gasket. In this case, what's the second best option?

 

[RootesRooter]

The block usually doesn't need the deck skimmed. Do you have visible damage/warpage/high spots?

If you say you don't need welding to build up the water passageways, have a machine shop skim ten thou off the head and call it good.

 

[Bill Blue]

Bill, guys that have been on this site for a while will tell you I am a hardcore DIY'er. But there are some things that just cannot be done by hand, especially a green hand. There are few things I will not tackle, this is one of them. I did bend a head back into "flatness" but that is another story. Check out the block and head, using a carpenters square and feeler gauge. If either is out more than a couple of thou, have them resurfaced by a machine shop.

Bill

 

[Jeff Scoville]

True, the block usually doesn't need work other than cleaning out the rear water passages. When I have the block out of the car I usually use my 8" mud hog DA sander with 80 grit on the block to clean it up and gain adhesion for the gasket.
Having the block in the car with the pistons in I would say using a 2x4 as a block with a piece of 80 grit would be just fine. Your main concern is not getting all the sanding debris inside the piston and lifter areas.
I really think your best bet is to take the head in and have it checked and or skimmed, it just makes good sense. I have had them done for as little as $40.00

 

[tfctpa]

In the past, I have used a large mill bast*rd file to check wether or not a head is warped. Using light pressure, draw the file across the head keeping it flat across the head surface. After you go across the entire head, you can easily see areas where there has been no contact. It is very important to use light pressure as not to cause any deep scratches in the head! I must state that I have only used this procedure on cast iron heads, and would use great care on aluminum. If indeed the head proves not to be true (lack of fine marks after filing), it's time to get it to a machine shop. This can be performed on the block also assuming you have plenty of room to draw the file.