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oil pressure

bbonner

Donation Time
Good Morning
I have another question of course. What is the oil pressure range normally. Mine starts at about 45-50 hard to read guage and than drops after driving it for a while. What should it run at? I might need to have the engine overhaul this winter. She runs find and uses very very little oil but I don't like the drop in the oil pressure it looks like it drops to about 25-30 lbs What does yours run at?
 

George Coleman

Gold Level Sponsor
depends on the viscocity of oil you use, 20w-50 or 30w but if you have 20psi at idle when the the motor is good and hot, then you are ok. I use 10-30w Shell Rotella and start at 60psi cold and it drops to about 20 psi when very hot, thats at idle, when running the pressure is around 50 to 60 psi thats when hot.:cool:
 

todd reid

Gold Level Sponsor
There is some good reading on the TE/AE website on this subject, including techtips on improving your oil pump & modifying your pressure relief valve. I was advised many years ago that the engine really isn't under load at idle, so don't get overly concerned at that reading - but if you don't have 40psi at 2,000 rpm, then it's time to take action.
I'm sure our other forum experts will also weigh in.
 

TulsaAlpine

Donation Time
stock original motor

I use Castrol 30w and it starts out cold at 50psi once hot and running idles at just over 20psi and this is on after market gages so not sure just how accurate they really are. Mine leaks oil like a sieve, need that trimming oil pan modification for the big fix. I see Todd has chimed in on performance issue thread remark, but if its just a weekend driver I would not worry about it, if your doing slalom or long drives and want a type of performance car then look into a rebuild. Alpines start out with high oil pressure and then drop nature of the original engine, rebuilds with new rings, cam grinds etc etc can change that and peak performance but as it is now running sounds like it is within normal operating range.

Donna
:D
 

bbonner

Donation Time
Well I guess my car is holding its own. I use some 30 weight oil that says it is specially designed for cars prior to 1988. I don't seem to burn it but do have a leak about the size of the a half dollar after 8 hours of sitting. but I see if leaking on the engine and this bothers me being a daughter of a mechanic. I have the gaskets but my husband hasn't had a chance to change it. This winter was rough with the snow and then He said he would have to run along beside my car and but the gasket in because I love to drive it and when we are home on the weekends I am out cruising. He says he can't run that fast.
 

Nickodell

Donation Time
I'm interested to hear why some of you use straight SAE30 oil, instead of multigrade. The improved cold flow and hot viscosity and lubrication that came with the introduction of multigrade oils half a century ago was a big factor in extending engine life. Why sacrifice that, unless you buy all the myths about the harm that carefully calculated additives are supposed to cause?

(Notice: Not a word about "weight" :) )
 

TulsaAlpine

Donation Time
Habit I guess

Castol 30W is dino oil seems the multi-grade has synthetic in it, just got in the habit of using it but heck the way I lose oil I have put different kinds and not even worried about it. A little marvel mystery oil to top it off!
Death to an Alpine running without oil, keep oil in the crank, I just buy the 30w and try to keep it on the shelf. last I checked cost is the same so it is more of a habit I guess. With some of the latest specs on oil and my new cars with the OIL LIFE MONITORS, a whole new way of life seems we all have been wasting oil no one is suppose to change the oil a 3000 miles now just trust you cars computer. So if the new muti-grade is so great but I lose so much does it still protect my engine, don't care at this point just keep it topped off.

Donna
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Nick, do you really think multigrade is important in an Alpine? Don't know about the rest of you, but I have zero plans to run the car at temperatures less than 50 degrees. Figure 30w or even 30 should be good down into the 30's. I'm using 15w40, but like Donna, mostly out of habit. Don't think I've ever used a single viscosity oil in any car I've owned.

Bill
 

bbonner

Donation Time
I am not sure what you mean I do use 10-30 but it is for older vehicles is this what you consider multi grade?
 

TulsaAlpine

Donation Time
Yes

If the oil is labeled 10-30 or 20-50 then it is multi-grade. The plastic container will have just the 30W on the front of the container. What that means is the oil does not work as well in very cold or very hot temperatures. My other reasoning for 30W is the no OD tyranny in the Alpine says to use non-detergent 30W oil and change it every 6000 miles.
Like Bill stated I don't drive the Alpine unless it is 45 degrees outside and it will sit most of July since now the daytime high is 95+ the Alpine does not get driven in extreme temperatures and sits in a insulated garage.

Donna
:D
 

Nickodell

Donation Time
Donna: Multigrade oils don't necessarily have any synthetic oil component. The first multigrades came out decades before the first synthetics were even invented. Multigrade oils may be made from 100% base (dino) oils. They contain viscosity-index improvers that improve flow at low temperatures without sacrificing viscosity at high temps.

Bill: I'm shocked! I love to drive Matilda so much that she always gets taken out every week or, at most two, even in the dead of winter when the temp. is in the low 20s. I was told many years ago that standing immobile is the worst thing for a car, especially the tires and wheel bearings. When WWII removed all private-use petrol, smart people in Britain raised their cars on blocks under the axles, drained the coolant and removed the battery, and found they started easily in 1945 and ran fine. (The others sold their cars, often for 10 or 20 pounds for a 5-year-old saloon, and after the war found the same car selling for 200 or more). The non-smart just left them on the wheels and had trouble later.

In any event, I changed to Rotella 10w40 a year ago because it still contains ZDP to protect cams and lifters.
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
In any event, I changed to Rotella 10w40 a year ago because it still containing ZDP to protect cams and lifters.

I agree, Bill. In fact, I'm considering stockpiling some of that stuff, since I'm sure it, too, will eventually fall victim to 'progress', and then what will we do? Hey, who ever though we'd never have proper oil for our cars!? I figure if I lay up a stock of about 20 gallons or so, I'm good for as long as I'll probably be able to reasonably maintain my Alpine, given my present age.
 

bbonner

Donation Time
oil

Gee my oil cap says use only shell oil.....which I do not do...So It sounds like we all have different reasons for using the oil we do. I put my car up for the winter in an unheated garage, we made sure she had antifreeze and didn't disconnected the battery from November to April when I brought her out again due to the large amount of snow. I would not drive her in the snow of course. Putting her up on a jack is reasonable to keep the tires good. But this spring she started first try no hesitation and are weather in Northern New England can be darn cold. I guess you live and learn. That is what I like about this website you learn from others through their past experiences good or bad. Great thanks.
 
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