Now I'm in for it.

[PROCRAFT]

Why on earth would they recommend a bronze gear? What's the benefit? Faster wear and bits in the oil pan....[/QUOT
Apparently some cam manufactures require a Bronze gear!

 

[PROCRAFT]

Yep, I will need the steel gear for the cam in my engine.

Here's a part # just for ducks, SUM850021

 

[Aladin Sane]

Everything I have been reading about distributors for the 302 comes down to this. Flat tappet cams need an iron geared distributor, roller cams need a steel gear.

 

[absunbeam]

Reading the article it looks like a combination of different circumstances would require a bronze gear if your racing. Would be used on a roller setup, heard too many stories of bronze gear failures on street driven setups. The article also refers to oil viscosity has an effect on wear. Have to keep an eye on oil pressure to tell if you lost the distributor gear. I'd stick with iron.

 

[260Alpine]

Iron for flat tappet and steel for roller cam.

 

[Aladin Sane]

The motor I have is from an 89 mustang gt, so roller cam and steel gear.

 

[PROCRAFT]

Well there ya are.

 

[Aladin Sane]

So Joel, (or anyone else who wants to throw out an opinion) I now have as much as six months before I get my car back. I had planned to drop the oil pan and take the valve covers off to inspect the engine. With this much extra time, would you pull the heads on an engine you have zero history on? I sent the c4 out for an overhaul as a precaution. I really dont want to install the engine and trans in a freshly painted car, just to pull it out again. I suppose I could check the compression and get an idea about the cylinder walls and rings. If compression is good, no need to pull the heads right.

 

[Aladin Sane]

After further study, since I wont have the trans on the block and so cant bolt on the starter, what I will want to do is a leak down test.

 

[PROCRAFT]

After further study, since I wont have the trans on the block and so cant bolt on the starter, what I will want to do is a leak down test.

I have a look just because,maybe do a leak down as you say, maybe look at a main, you've got the time.

 

[Aladin Sane]

Yes, I have pretty much talked myself into the work you outlined. Like you said, I have the time.

 

[absunbeam]

If you have the bellhousing, mount it back on the motor & put the starter on. If you know someone with a spare you could borrow it.

 

[Aladin Sane]

Hey, I have a question for the group. I am going to add seat heaters to my alger project. I plan to put the switches near the bottom of the sloping front of the console. I assume the front comes to rest on the bump at the end of the trans tunnel seen here. I dont have the car close at hand to test fit it and see if I have clearance for the switches. Does the front of the console just reach that bump, or does it extend to the front of it?

 

[260Alpine]

Aladin, I think you mean seat heaters?

 

[Aladin Sane]

Doh, stupid auto correct. Fixing now.

And looking at a blow up of the pic I attached, I think I can see a shadow of where the front of the console rests near the front of the bump, so question likely answered.

 

[65beam]

Here Ya Go

 

[Aladin Sane]

But will it be the same for a LHD car?

 

[65beam]

But will it be the same for a LHD car?

There is no difference in where the console sets. Here's a photo of my LHD car.

 

[Aladin Sane]

Thanks, but the little smiley should have let you know I didnt really think there would be a difference.

 

[Alpine 1789]

FWIW, I went in the opposite direction put my seat heater switches behind the armrest. I can't see them when driving, but they are easy to reach and I made a panel that protects the wiring from anything in the box hitting it. I gave up a little bit of storage room, but will never notice the difference. And, the switches are barely noticeable when looking at the car.