• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

Mechanical Brake Light Kits

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I decided there is a real need for the kits, so I made up a new batch. They bypass the hydraulic brake light switch, allowing a malfunctioning switch to be replaced without opening the brakes system hydraulics. You simply install the switch, run wires through the firewall to the stock switch, remove the connectors from the old switch and insert the male connectors of the kit wires into the stock female connectors. No need to remove the old switch.

The kit features a top quality Airtex switch with brass contacts and terminals. The female connectors fully insulated.

Here is a photo of an installed bracket and switch.


Standard kit ready for packing.


Available brackets.


Standard kit (on the left) is $26, including shipping by Priority Mail. This is the same price as before. I did quite a bit of shopping and bought in bulk to keep the costs down. I know it is an old sales pitch, but it really is an effective way to control costs, especially shipping. As an example, shipping for the switches was $.25 per switch.

The slimmed down bracket kit, painted satin black is $30, including shipping by Priority Mail. Cash or check to:

Bill Blue
2703 South State Road 1
Connersville, IN 47331

Bill
 
Last edited:

bing

Donation Time
Bill, I have one of these on my Alpine that purchased from you the first time around. Any reason why it can't be used on another type of car?
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bill, I have one of these on my Alpine that purchased from you the first time around. Any reason why it can't be used on another type of car?

The new kits use a 1 1/2" clamp, which is pretty well maxed out by the Alpine column. But it would be a simple matter to elongate the holes for a 1 5/8" clamp. Also, the distance from the column is pretty critical. That dimension is 1.8" on the Alpine. Some of the old kits used 1 5/8" clamps, which would probably be good for a column diameter of 1 3/4".

I still have a few of the larger clamps, if you wish I could provide a kit with the larger clamp and enlarged and elongated holes to match.

Bill
 

agmason54

Donation Time
Really?

Bill Blue
I have owned fifty Alpines and not once have l seen one original brake light switch fail.My 92 Ford Explorer uses the same Cracker Jack prize plastic piece of junk simular to what you are promoting.It has gone bad on me twice in ten years.lf my Alpine switch failled on a trip l would Mickey Mouse a temporary setup like you descibe then immediately remove it in case Goofy or Pluto stopped by and saw it and laughed at me.
Yers truly
Agm

ps
on secound thought Ill give you the benefit of the doubt and carry a spare original switch just in case...
 

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi Al,

Years ago, the topic came up about the stock Alpine pressure sensing switch stopping functioning, so that is why the travel switch has been adopted. Just recently, the subject came up again, when one of the guys had this problem, and he was advised to just give it a good whack with a hammer or a big wrench. When this switch stops working, I consider it a failure. I don´t care if you can get it working again temporarily by using this simple, rather crude, fix, because if it fails at the wrong time, someone might not notice you are stopping and hit you from behind.

I´m sure that travel switches fail too, but what I like about them, is that they can be adjusted to where if you barely touch the pedal, the lights will light up. With the old switch, even when it is working perfectly, you need to put quite a bit of pressure on it to make it work, which means that you are actually stopping before the guy behind you even has a clue that you are about to stop., again leading to the possiblity of some distracted driver hitting you from behind.

The newer cars now use the travel switch, because it is much safer. I like to warn the guy behind me that I´m about to do something that will require him to react.

The kit that Bill is selling is not only a great deal, but I believe, is one of the simplest things you can do to increase your saftey, Especially since these old cars don´t have all the safety equipment that the new cars have today. Like head restraint seat backs and air bags.

Jose

Jose


Bill Blue
I have owned fifty Alpines and not once have l seen one original brake light switch fail.My 92 Ford Explorer uses the same Cracker Jack prize plastic piece of junk simular to what you are promoting.It has gone bad on me twice in ten years.lf my Alpine switch failled on a trip l would Mickey Mouse a temporary setup like you descibe then immediately remove it in case Goofy or Pluto stopped by and saw it and laughed at me.
Yers truly
Agm

ps
on secound thought Ill give you the benefit of the doubt and carry a spare original switch just in case...
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bill Blue
I have owned fifty Alpines and not once have l seen one original brake light switch fail.My 92 Ford Explorer uses the same Cracker Jack prize plastic piece of junk simular to what you are promoting.It has gone bad on me twice in ten years.lf my Alpine switch failled on a trip l would Mickey Mouse a temporary setup like you descibe then immediately remove it in case Goofy or Pluto stopped by and saw it and laughed at me.
Yers truly
Agm

ps
on secound thought Ill give you the benefit of the doubt and carry a spare original switch just in case...
Hey Al, thanks for endorsement! If you ever need a kit, just let me know, I'll give you a special price.

Bill
 
Last edited:

robertf

Donation Time
Save one for me Bill. This was on my to do list, but now that I see you've got a bracket made up that'll save some time.
 

George Coleman

Gold Level Sponsor
Note: I have used DOT5 for the last 30+ years no problem with the switch. It seems that if you let your brake fluid get old and dirty is when problems occur, reg. fluid will absorb moisture and that's the death nail for the old style switch. I change my fluid every year. and all my hydraulics like that. :cool:
 

bing

Donation Time
That's interesting. I have DOT 5 in my Sunbeam and the switch didn't last very long. I have spoken with others who have had the same problem. One of the benefits of DOT 5 is it doesn't need changing with the same frequency as conventional fluid.
 

dlyle123

Donation Time
On every Rootes car I own I have switched to DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid and the brake light switches have failed in every car withing a matter of months.

Regular DOT 5 may be ok for the switches, but not the silicone based fluid I have used. I love the silicone based brake fluid. Goes in purple and years later will still be the same color purple when you flush the system.
 
Last edited:

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Rebuilt a complete brake system. New lines, hoses, Cylinders (Master Brake, clutch, slave) etc., etc...

Dot 5 was used based upon recommendations from various sources.

Advised to be cautious shortly thereafter by various other sources that all would fail within a matter of weeks and or months.

Sure makes a fellow nervous :eek: getting that kind of warning.

I read and re read all sorts of infor that if re-moving "all" of the old fluid there would be no problem converting to DOT 5.

I started new with DOT 5.
 

Gitnrusty

Donation Time
brake switch modification.

Gotta add my two cents. Over many years of driving (got my licence in 1954) I have replaced quite a few, fluid pressure operated, brake light switches. Lots of old Fords-VWs-other brands-and imports. Hot rod builders have been using an early Chevy mechanical switch for years but its not as easy to mount as the switches discussed here.
I am using a Chevy steering column in my Darksider, a bit larger in diameter than a Alpine and it includes a cruise control switch that I intend to put to use.
This calls for a clutch pedal disengage switch. So easy to just double up on a bracket like Bills brake switch.....Two birds with one stone.:) Thanks Bill.
I would never consider relying on an old style pressure switch to protect my rear.
 

Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
Rebuilt a complete brake system. New lines, hoses, Cylinders (Master Brake, clutch, slave) etc., etc...

Dot 5 was used based upon recommendations from various sources.

Advised to be cautious shortly thereafter by various other sources that all would fail within a matter of weeks and or months.

Sure makes a fellow nervous :eek: getting that kind of warning.

I read and re read all sorts of infor that if re-moving "all" of the old fluid there would be no problem converting to DOT 5.

I started new with DOT 5.[/QUOT

Dan
I ran synthetic for a long time. I did all the brakes and hoses. Blew the lines
Added some fluid and blew again. Never had a problem in 25 years.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Notice that I said "New Lines", that way I did not have any residue from the old fluid.

Thanks chuck for the comfromation! I believe you were one of the sources that I had read that "helped" me go to DOT 5.
 
Last edited:

John W

Bronze Level Sponsor
Bought one of Bill Blue's brake light switches a year or so ago and it had a female and male attachment where both should be the same. Also required quite a bit of adjusting to contact the brake petal arm before it operated properly. Still, I'd buy another as opposed to making one myself. Guys who make Sunbeam specific upgrades are about as cool as folks get.
 
Last edited:

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bought one of Bill Blue's brake light switches a year or so ago and it had a female and male attachment where both should be the same. Also required quite a bit of adjusting to contact the brake petal arm before it operated properly. Still, I'd buy another as opposed to making one myself. Guys who make Sunbeam specific upgrades are about as cool as folks get.

John, are you saying both ends of the wires should have had female connectors? This is the first I have heard of such a problem. I made the kit to fit my Series V parts car. Is there a difference between early and late cars?

Bill
 
Top