Master cylinder

[Charles Johns]

I researched for hours on the net and finally found a dual chamber master that should work on any Sunbeam, and for a reasonable price. It is for Chrysler products up to 2000 and the ports are on both sides for passenger or drivers brake lines. The part number is NMC11132, the cylinder bore is 7/8" so not as good as the one Bill recommends but 1/8" better than the 1" leg-aching ones. I think the 1" would be okay for me but the wife drives sometimes also. At $50.99 NEW with the reservoir, it seems like a good deal, and a brake light pressure switch can be used if you prefer...I do to keep as much stuff from under the dash as possible. With at least 7 gauges, a main light switch, ignition switch, directional lights switch, heater with a hi-lo sw, wiper hi-lo sw, fog light sw, air conditioner switch (maybe), accessory lights switch, a Stereo CD/USB/Radio, and a glovebox, that space between the dash and firewall fills up fast. Depending on space taken by new trans hump, I may fab a console with the radio. Time will tell. Again, ALL ideas appreciated.

 

[Toyanvil]

Also look at the Toyota Prius M/C, I may still have one I can send you. It is 3/4 bore and the Prius is not vacuum boost, I went with the Mazda M/C because it mounts the same as the Sunbeam and I had the room.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...441533,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

 

[Charles Johns]

Toyanvil, I looked at the site you posted and those do not have a reservoir. The one I posted has a plastic reservoir and lines can be run out of either side, plus a pressure switch can be installed. Thanks anyway for the information. Once on the road if mine is too hard I now know what to look for.

 

[loose_electron]

when you get this installed, give us an update on the fit to location and how herd it is to push on.

I am still running the original brake hydraulics setup, where if something breaks it all dies.

 

[Charles Johns]

I'll be taking lots of pictures. For several years I have been the M6A (Mustang 6-Cylinder Association) answer guy for the 6-cylinder owner. I am a friend of the head of M6A and after many years building cars frame-up, he asked me to give my opinion on modifications with reasons for why or why not I did the changes. Rebuilding the heater, changing the Ford compressor to a later model, doing interior mods, changing wiring, modifying the engine and suspension, etc. required me to take pictures to explain the changes. It is not that I am good at it but after 50 years doing it, my friend figured I had at least some good knowledge to pass on. One problem with car builders is NOT ASKING when they do not know. I joined this site because I have enough common sense to know what I DO NOT KNOW. This site is full of helpful information that saves time and headaches building a Sunbeam.

 

[Charles Johns]

My new dual-chamber master cylinder with 7/8" bore and 4 outlets. This allows for an external brake-light switch which many do not like but I do. It also allows for many brake line positions in other cars or if stuff is in the way.

 

[260Alpine]

Charles, Looks nice! Originally it was for power 4 wheel disc brakes. If you use rear drums you should use a 10lb residual valve or Dan's rear disc brake setup. Also most power brake masters have a shallow hole for the pushrod, make sure it is straight inline so it doesn't pop out. The 7/8 will have a harder pedal compared to the 11/16, 3/4, 13/16 masters most use. Bill Blue has a 6 to 1 pedal mod that will help. Looks like an electrical plug for low level light too.

 

[Charles Johns]

260 Alpine, the two outlets are different sizes so I think it was for disc-drum systems. If not, I have a valve for the rear line. It does have the brake switch I like and fits the space nicely...with an attached reservoir. The reservoir is tilted slightly so I am sure it was made for a booster.