I want to start up a rebuilt 1725 that's been left to sit... for a long time!

[sunalp]

I have a shop that "makes" my radiators for my Alpines.

Hi Dan,
I too have a guy that re-cores radiators for me, and he's a bit better than what you're getting charged. What I was
referring to was a new stock radiator. I know there are suppliers that make new ones that fit Alpine ( and I presume
Tigers as well), but they are usually aluminum. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but they're not stock.

Steve

 

[Scott Rodrigues]

To be honest, I think you are overthinking this whole thing. If you are that concerned about the radiator
drain it, and the block and take the radiator to a shop and have it cleaned. While it's out take apart the
thermostat fittings and replace the gaskets and thermostat. When you get the radiator back refill with fresh
coolant. If the radiator was new when you parked the car and was filled with coolant it's probably going to
be ok, but I'd have it checked just to make sure. Just out of curiosity, where did you find a new radiator for
your Alpine? As far as I know they haven't been available for quite some time.

As far as the condition of the radiator goes, you can take the cap off and look into the tubes. You can usually
see them even with coolant in there. If they look clean, you're in good shape. If they look clogged, you're not
and should have it professionally cleaned.

Cheers!
Steve

Thanks for the advice, I will check the insides once its drained. The coolant in the radiator is still filled at the top, is green and I can't see deep into it. I had the radiator re-cured during the rebuild. Anything I could make better or done right, I spent the money on. I didn't want to risk cutting any corners and have it bite me in the end and of course -I- bit myself by letting it sit...

I appreciate all of you and your wisdom on this. There's a lot I'm still learning about this and I'm working on it, bit by bit.

 

[Scott Rodrigues]

Update: The 1725 lives and idles pretty well. Getting some light vapors from under the carb manifold but nothing seems to be on fire or burning. The engine does run really hot, though and is pretty darn dirty with pebbles and rocks and such that somehow got in a closed hood car that has no trees around it

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Update: The 1725 lives and idles pretty well. Getting some light vapors from under the carb manifold but nothing seems to be on fire or burning. The engine does run really hot, though and is pretty darn dirty with pebbles and rocks and such that somehow got in a closed hood car that has no trees around it

Scott what do you mean vapors from under the manifold. If it is running hot check for air leaks on the intake side check ignition timing, mixture on the carbs, and make sure the thermostat is correct 160 degrees for summer 180 for winter.

 

[hartmandm]

How are you verifying it is running hot? If it is the temperature gauge reading, that could be off for various reasons. Did you use an infrared thermometer?

Mike

 

[Scott Rodrigues]

Scott what do you mean vapors from under the manifold. If it is running hot check for air leaks on the intake side check ignition timing, mixture on the carbs, and make sure the thermostat is correct 160 degrees for summer 180 for winter.

There was a light kind of steam, for lack of a better word, when I first started and got the car to idle. It's no longer there. I checked around the motor and beyond a gunked up fuel filter (now replaced) everything is behaving itself. I'm not used to being around an old school engine, I meant hot in terms of the engine emitting heat not that it was somehow overheating. My gauges for the most part are borked so I'm going to go through maybe later today or tomorrow and clean the leads and see which gauges really work and which don't. One thing I am going to do at some point is install an Ammeter gauge. I think it's just smart to have one.

I know someone who has an infrared thermometer, I'll borrow that and see what the read is. Thanks for that!

I was really surprised that, after sitting for a decade that it turned over with the first turn of the key. Took a bit to idle out but it did and it sounds like a sewing machine lol.

I don't understand the two different therostats, I'm assuming one is for winter conditions and one is summer? I live in California so I'm assuming it's a 120? I'll have to open it up and take a look.

I'm almost at the point where I'm going to check things (after draining and refilling fluids) and if anything looks suspicious, I'm just going to replace it. My Brake MC had some fluid left in it and my pedal was frozen, so I added more and now it works and returns, so I'm going to bleed the brakes next. Hopefully I didn't screw something up by doing that.

Rear Brake lights and turn signals don't work but the parking lights shine bright. Assuming ground like the fronts and going to try and get behind the gas tanks, take them apart, clean and put them back on, see if that helps like it did the front ones.

The tanks that are in the car are ones I had reconditioned a decade ago. I used a mechanics flashlight to look into them since the other flashlight made it look bad and they're nice and clean inside. Filled it with some gas and even though there's a slight smell, there are no leaks I've seen.

It's getting there. This SIV will make it back on the street soon. Crossing fingers.

I really appreciate everyone's help and support, including Al Mason whose been my Alpine Yoda and a solid good friend. I hope to someday at sometime be a help to yall as well in the same way yall have helped me.

To be continued!

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

There was a light kind of steam, for lack of a better word, when I first started and got the car to idle. It's no longer there. I checked around the motor and beyond a gunked up fuel filter (now replaced) everything is behaving itself. I'm not used to being around an old school engine, I meant hot in terms of the engine emitting heat not that it was somehow overheating. My gauges for the most part are borked so I'm going to go through maybe later today or tomorrow and clean the leads and see which gauges really work and which don't. One thing I am going to do at some point is install an Ammeter gauge. I think it's just smart to have one.

I know someone who has an infrared thermometer, I'll borrow that and see what the read is. Thanks for that!

I was really surprised that, after sitting for a decade that it turned over with the first turn of the key. Took a bit to idle out but it did and it sounds like a sewing machine lol.

I don't understand the two different therostats, I'm assuming one is for winter conditions and one is summer? I live in California so I'm assuming it's a 120? I'll have to open it up and take a look.

I'm almost at the point where I'm going to check things (after draining and refilling fluids) and if anything looks suspicious, I'm just going to replace it. My Brake MC had some fluid left in it and my pedal was frozen, so I added more and now it works and returns, so I'm going to bleed the brakes next. Hopefully I didn't screw something up by doing that.

Rear Brake lights and turn signals don't work but the parking lights shine bright. Assuming ground like the fronts and going to try and get behind the gas tanks, take them apart, clean and put them back on, see if that helps like it did the front ones.

The tanks that are in the car are ones I had reconditioned a decade ago. I used a mechanics flashlight to look into them since the other flashlight made it look bad and they're nice and clean inside. Filled it with some gas and even though there's a slight smell, there are no leaks I've seen.

It's getting there. This SIV will make it back on the street soon. Crossing fingers.

I really appreciate everyone's help and support, including Al Mason whose been my Alpine Yoda and a solid good friend. I hope to someday at sometime be a help to yall as well in the same way yall have helped me.

To be continued!

Scott check your grounds on the instruments the fuel and temp gauges have a constant voltage regulator it’s a little oblong metal box about 2 inch by 3/4 x 3/8 attached to dash support near the ignition switch. If it is shot the instruments won’t work. The brake lamp is a pressure activated switch located at the junction below the servo. Pull off your coil lead turn the ignition on and touch the two wires from the brake light switch together if the brake lights work the switch is your problem. If no joy open the trunk and pull the tail lamp bulbs or remove the lense if they are outside screw and check for continuity. Another thing check your fuse block sometimes the fuses look ok but are shot.

 

[Warren]

I/R temp gun 17.99 Harbor freight works as good as the one I borrowed from my career mechanic I had to give back.
Voltmeter better , look up Blackdog on the forum if you want a stock looking one.

 

[hartmandm]

Scott,

Lots of folks just run a 180 degree thermostat all the time - summer or winter. That is what I do.

If you have an overheating problem, using a 160 degree thermostat won't address that.

Mike

 

[Tom H]

If your parking lights (and tail lights) work, then the front and rear lamp housings are properly grounded. The tail lights run off the same non-fused, non-switched circuit.

But brake lights, turn signal lamps, gauges, and wiper all run off the "Green" circuit which is fed through one of the fuses. Try the wiper. If that does not work, almost surely the fuse is either bad or, more likely, just not making good contact. Fuses rarely fail from just sitting for several years, but those fuse contacts are very prone to losing good contact. Once you get the green circuit working, you can tackle the gauges. Mike can show you a troubleshooting process for the SIV gauges.

Tom

 

[Bill Blue]

I do not think that ammeters are a good idea, especially on old British cars. If properly installed, they carry the entire electrical load of a running vehicle, a fire waiting to happen. Voltmeters do not carry a load, just sample the voltage. Much safer.

Bill

 

[sunalp]

I do not think that ammeters are a good idea, especially on old British cars.

Couldn't agree more. I replace ammeters with voltmeters with every wiring job I do, especially in the old
British ones! If you're having issues with the pressure brake switch, I sell a mechanical switch that's really
well designed , easy to install and not subject to failure like the old pressure switches.

Cheers!
Steve

 

[Scott Rodrigues]

Well, I figured out my steam leak... seems the bottom of the Weber is leaking a tiny amount of gasoline on the exhaust manifold and its causing it to heat up. I'll upload a pic later today. If I'm standing on the drivers side facing the trunk it's under the top left corner of the Weber on a fat L bracket kind of thing. Beyond that, I've had zero issue with the engine. Fires up, goes to idle with no odd sounds.

I had a slight issue starting it after I swapped out the gunked fuel filter but after priming the glass bowl fuel pump (thanks for the tip Al!) It started right up after a second try.

Yikes on the Ammeter! Ok, NO Ammeter then, thank you Bill! Steve, I might be in touch on that.

More 'Pine-ing later today!