Hitachi Alternator Installation Questions

[Scotty]

Edit Note: I was going to take this to the shop this weekend but my girlfriend decided that she'd help do it for me. So far she's removed the Generator and unbolted the Generator bracket from the car.

Okay, so I got a Famed Hitachi 14231 Alternator (three spades on the back so I'm figuring it's 3-wire). This one, in fact: https://www.amazon.com/Alternator-N...itachi+alternator+14231&qid=1623562675&sr=8-3


It has a smaller puller and a tall fan on the front that makes it a pita to line up with either the original Generator or Alternator bracket (I have both).

If I mount it on the Alternator bracket, it sits too far forward or is 1/2" off as mentioned by others in other threads.

ATM it is mounted on the generator bracket a bit forward so that it is in line with the fan/water pump and crank pulley. It's currently on with the help of a handful of washers on one end and a bolt and 2-1/2" spacer on the back.

Here's my problem: The 'sliding' bar that goes from the bolt on the water pump to the alternator is too thick and too big to work. If I mount it on the front, the metal eats right into the fan blade. If I mount it on the back, I have to find a way to bend the bar and I don't want to do all of that. So my question is: What are you guys using for this bracket?

I'm not a purist and I frankly don't care how something like this gets bolted on as long as I'm not drilling into my engine or doing anything that will make it a liability. Reliable, Solid and Secure is my goal. Looks are for models.

Thanks in advance!

 

[rixter]

I think I've read that the offset when mounting the Hitachi 14231 alternator (or its variations.. mine is a Mitsubishi), can vary. In my case, it was off by about 1/4 inch. My solution was to elongate the holes in the alternator mount. Note: I had a defective original alternator on my series 5... not a generator. If your generator mount isn't letting you get a closer line up, obtaining a newer series alternator bracket may be what you need. As far as the adjustment bracket, mine lined up from a position behind the alternator when the alternator mount was modified. Below are some photos.

Rick

 

[sunalp]

I also modify the alternator bracket, much like Rick shows. only used a Bridgeport at my machinists
shop to do it. Same concept though.

I also have that alternator on a generator bracket on the engine that's currently in my car. I used a threaded
rod and multiple nuts to lock the alternator so it lines up well

I do like the modified alternator bracket better, but both can be used successfully.

Cheers!
Steve

 

[Alpine 1789]

Below are some photos.

Great photos, Rick. That is exactly how I did mine 15-20 years ago, only I didn't think to document the process for posterity.

 

[Scotty]

I think I've read that the offset when mounting the Hitachi 14231 alternator (or its variations.. mine is a Mitsubishi), can vary. In my case, it was off by about 1/4 inch. My solution was to elongate the holes in the alternator mount. Note: I had a defective original alternator on my series 5... not a generator. If your generator mount isn't letting you get a closer line up, obtaining a newer series alternator bracket may be what you need. As far as the adjustment bracket, mine lined up from a position behind the alternator when the alternator mount was modified. Below are some photos.

Rick

View attachment 23281 View attachment 23282 View attachment 23283 View attachment 23284 View attachment 23285

I had no idea I could do that with a drill . You learn something new every day, thank you for that!

Where did you get the curved Alternator Adjustment Strap? The one I have is from the Generator, it's thick and too tall to line up with the hole on the Hitachi so I'm searching for one like yours. Is it GM?

I was thinking of chancing it and picking up a Datsun 270 one because it looks like it'd fit but it doesn't look long enough or something.

(For those who might be concerned that I'll junk it, if this one is an original Generator adjustment bracket, I'm going to put it on my shelf until someone needs one, they can have it.)

 

[jumpinjan]

If you use a Lucas 16ACR, you don't need to file the mount for it to fit. I authored an article about this.
Jan

 

[rixter]

To be clear, I used a combination of a Dremel tool and a round file to elongate the existing holes. I used a 1/4 inch drill bit to measure my progress and to ensure both holes were elongated an equal amount. The curved adjustment strap was something I assumed was going to have to be custom made. I started by making a cardboard template to see what length and curvature would be required. I took this to local auto parts places that have chrome accessory alt brackets to see if those would work. In the middle of these efforts I happened to see a used bracket listing on ebay that looked like it would work.... and it did.

Rick

 

[rixter]

I thought I recalled having a spare newer series alternator mounting bracket in my parts pile, so I dug for it this evening to see if it was something the original poster or anyone else could use. What I dug up was actually something different that I've not seen before. Maybe someone else has seen this variation or maybe it is a one-off that someone fabricated for their purposes. It looks similar to my original with an additional "arm" on the bracket that mounts to a bolt on the water pump.

Anyone else seen this version?

Rick

 

[RootesRooter]

For those considering the switch, use the "Hitachi 14231" only as a beginning reference number. Hitachi hasn't made this unit for years, but places like AutoZone, etc usually have an in-house brand equivalent.

Also be sure to re-check the tightness of the bolts holding your modified bracket to the block. Mine loosened twice during the first week on a trip to SUNI IV.

 

[Tom H]

I looked at the photo of the rear of the Alt on the Amazon site you linked, and only see two "spade" connections plus the B+ nut-on-bolt connection. The two spades in the "T" configuration are the correct ones you need for an Alpine. The vertical part of the T is the L (or "Lamp") connection and the top, crossing part of the T is the R or S connection. You do not need the dual spade "Tee"connector as you can use separate, insulated connectors for each terminal. If there are other connections, they are not needed for the Alpine. As RootesRooter noted, the 14231 is now a "universal" alt for many different applications and there are several versions that can fill multiple applications with the same Alt.

 

[Scotty]

I looked at the photo of the rear of the Alt on the Amazon site you linked, and only see two "spade" connections plus the B+ nut-on-bolt connection. The two spades in the "T" configuration are the correct ones you need for an Alpine. The vertical part of the T is the L (or "Lamp") connection and the top, crossing part of the T is the R or S connection. You do not need the dual spade "Tee"connector as you can use separate, insulated connectors for each terminal. If there are other connections, they are not needed for the Alpine. As RootesRooter noted, the 14231 is now a "universal" alt for many different applications and there are several versions that can fill multiple applications with the same Alt.

THANK YOU for reminding me about the B+ terminal. I kept thinking it was a spade terminal for some stupid reason...

So I got the Alternator and new shorter belt in and on, followed the wiring instructions you gave, removed the Control Box and ran it with my Multimeter attached to the battery terminal and I'm happy to report that it WORKS and works well!

I'm getting a top end of 14.06 (standing, not driving) when revving it up. It 'bottoms' out at just under 13 when I power off and at 12.57 when left standing.

Tom H, you are a Godsend. Your instructions are simple, clear and made the job that looked like a rat's nest when I labeled and took off the Control Box easy. Thank you so much!

Everyone else has been great too and I'm taking everyone's advice to heart, including the list loose_electron left on a different thread and putting in a fuse on the battery line JUST IN CASE.

I noticed something about the Warning Light: When I turn the key to the run position, the red light comes, but when the car is on, the light goes off. I'm assuming with how it's wired that if I'm having issues with the Alt or it stops charging the battery that the light will come. That's cool!

Thank you all for helping me keep my Series IV on the road!

The only slight issue I have is that the pulleys are lined up but I can tell the Alt is slightly back, not much to make the belt kinked or obvious, but it isn't totally 'true'. I'm using an adjustable bracket over the top that's made of steel and almost the same thickness as the top Generator bracket. It's on there, it's not going anyway and I will check the bolts every so often to make sure it stays that way.

 

[loose_electron]

Everyone else has been great too and I'm taking everyone's advice to heart, including the list loose_electron left on a different thread and putting in a fuse on the battery line JUST IN CASE.

For an original wiring harness, I suggest including 2 fuses:

1 - At/Near the battery in series with the heavy battery cable. 350A seems to work well here.
2 - Where the heavy battery line comes to the starter solenoid/relay, an "always hot" wire gets branched off to the ignition key. This "always hot" wire is the power for everything in the car except the starter. A series fuse in this line, near the starter solenoid/relay should also be included. 40A seems to work well here.

although I would measure the current in this wire with everything running and use a fuse about 2X of that current.

The reason lots of UK cars from this era have electrical fires is because this "always hot" wire has no fuse, and powers all the source current wires that come out of the ignition switch. If anything on any of those wires shorts out, the full CCA of the battery (about 400A!) gets dumped through the short. Poof!

One other comment on this topic - Some people have suggested using a "sacrificial wire" in some situations. Don't do it. Use a fuse there. Two reasons: 1 - you know what current it is going to blow at -- and 2 - A fuse blows inside of an enclosure (the body of the fuse), a sacrificial wire burns up in the car, and could start a fire. Fuses and their holders are cheap.

 

[hopsedge]

I'm not sure if this will help you or not, but I just went through a similar exercise on my SV (with considerable and valuable input from Tom H). For my own records, I documented what I started with and what I finished with in the attached file. It includes a photo of the curved top alt bracket I fabricated.