Heater core trough

[Slainte]

The large oddly-shaped rubber piece that sits under my SV's heater core and drains through the center hose in the trans hump is pretty well shot. I assume this is a condensation / catastrophic failure catch structure. The part has been NLA from my regular suppliers for as long as I can remember. How have others solved replacing or repairing this part?

 

[alpine_64]

There are no known replacements. The only options are to find a decent used one (most all are at least hardened by now.. but small cracks/tears can be repaired with rubber cement)

I have read an article in CAT's tiger tales about rebuilding one by repairing the trough part with rubber cement and where the neck is, replacing it with a new large rubber tube glued to the trough.

Rebuilding it as best you can is probably your best option, they appear on ebay now and again, and putting a wanted add on the fourm may unearth a decent one.

 

[Slainte]

Hmm. Not the answer I was hoping for, but at least I know where I stand. Thanks for your reply.

 

[Ron67Alpine]

I kinda bodged together a "replacement" by gluing a piece of big truck inner tube in the compartment and using the valve stem as my drain tube. Not pretty but should work. Luckily I haven't had to test it in a core failure...yet.
good luck
Ron

 

[ALPINE5GT]

Has anyone tried to have a replacement made? I have a perfect example, and an almost perfect(drain nipple with metal insert missing) I might sacrifice to use as a mold.
Kevin Rodgers
SVGT, SV

 

[AlpineII]

I had to do the repair route on the ones I have. I used a liquid latex and brushed it on.

 

[Ken Ellis]

This wouldn't suit the purist crowd, but is it straightforward enough one could solder one up out of soft copper flashing, (roofing material) ?

(I've not had the need to dig in there, yet...)

 

[Slainte]

Here's what I came up with, for better or for worse. I spent five days patiently massaging Mcguire's Rubber and Vinyl Repair into the broken, brittle rubber (Quite a mess). Then, I used Zap a Gap cyanoacrylate glue to bring together the ragged edges. Finally, I used Barge contact cement to adhere strips of old bicycle inner tube to the inside of the damaged section. The result is a pliable and, I believe, functional unit. I've given the brand names of the glues I used because I did quite a bit of research, and they claimed to have been used in similar applications. Other products may work just as well; I went with what my research indicated. Hope this helps others.

 

[tony perrett]

An alternative is to visit your local hardware Store and look for a plastic food container the right size, reduce the hight and fix a drain tube using a rubber grommet or a screwed connector.

 

[Tom H]

On a related matter would someone tell me if there is a metal tube in the drain hole, separate from the core inside the rubber drain, but somehow anchored into the bottom of the chamber. I had a core leak, and the leak did not drain into the rubber piece but rather directly onto the floor of the chamber/ And yet the coolant did drain out through the drain tube and onto the bell housing rather than into the floor of the passenger area.


Tom

 

[65beam]

heater

there is a metal tube roughly 1/2 inch in diameter that pushes down into the drain tube.i use needle nose pliers to pull it out. not removing the tube is the reason so many of these are torn up when removed from the car. if you look the drain portion has a flange to snap it in when installed. the tube keeps it in place. a duckbill fits on the drain on the underneath side of the tunnel. the piece that snaps into the body also has a flange to hold it in place.

 

[Warren]

Rubber reconditioning

Had pretty good luck with wetting and storing rubber parts in a ziplock with armor all for several weeks. In the old days before armor all the Latino lowrider guys used brake fluid for tire black. The brake fluid closed cracks and made rubber pliable. I have had some good results on old small carb boots on motorcycles.
Warren In So. Cal.

 

[spudman5]

Rebuilding my heater core trough is on my list of todos. However, my problem will be in knowing how it is supposed to fit under the heater core. My trough was kinked up between the heater core and the end wall of the heater core area, so with age, the rubber got distorted. It is difficult to see how the trough fits into heater core area and how the core sits on top of it.

Does anyone have pictures of the trough installed in the heater core area before the heater core is added on top of it and then with core laid on top of it?

The pictures will help me know if I can rebuild the one I have or use one of the ideas outlined by other postings (I liked the copper flashing idea. Don't have to worry about that holding its shape and rotting out.)

Thanks,
Mike

 

[sunbby]

heater trough pics

Hi Mike!

My car happens to be in the appropriate state of disassembly.

So I took some pics. If you click on one it will go to the webshots album. You're welcome to drop by and look at it in person if you like as well...

 

[spudman5]

I'm glad you provided the pictures, it cleared up my main question about installation. I thought the heater core went on top of the trough, but it goes behind the trough. The previous owner probably must have thought the same thing and installed the core on the trough, kinking up the rubber. Now I can go about repairing it.

I do need to stop by sometime to see your car and we can commiserate together the fact that both our cars are apart in the garage. I'll send you a PM or email. Next year, I plan on driving my SV to next year's Invasion.

Mike