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Fuel Injected Tiger
- Thread starter atallamcs
- Start date
64beam
Donation Time
Hi Bill,
As you may have already read, I have finished the installation and have been driving my Tiger around. I sent the original pump back to FAST for replacement after my first mishap and I am running a Bosch pump currently. My tank has some very fine debris in it which I should have cleaned up while I was off the road. I actually installed an efi filter for an Aussie Falcon which filters down to 7 microns instead of the FAST 25-30 micron filter. I think the fine debris was clogging the kit filter causing the engine to stall (at the worst times as well). I will be giving it a good run this weekend, so hopefully all will be well.
Regards, Robin.
sunbeamowner
Bronze Level Sponsor
Sounds like you got some good advice......I wonder who that was ??
So I took my car for the first extended ride yesterday. First impression is that the throttle is much more responsive than before. It starts right up and then idles great. I especially like that when you pull up to a stop light it immediately settles in to the idle I have set which is 750. The car is also smoother running and more quiet than before. I've still got a few issues to tackle namely a big hesitation when the throttle is nailed. It may have something to do with the kickdown for my auto transmission.
I need to fix my cigarette lighter so I have power to the hand held ECU display....that way I can see what's going on when it hesitates. More to come.
I need to fix my cigarette lighter so I have power to the hand held ECU display....that way I can see what's going on when it hesitates. More to come.
64beam
Donation Time
64beam
Donation Time
Hi Doug,
Great to hear you had some driving time finally. Once you have your cigarette lighter fixed, there is an acceleration fuel adjustment in the advanced settings which you you can increase or decrease your acceleration fuel shot.
Regards, Robin.
I fixed the cigarette lighter. Right now I'm trying to figure out a cold start problem. It really loads up at cold start....to the point the engine is flooded.
Not sure why but my TPS is reading 2 while the car is off but ignition is on. I've recalibrated the pedal but it still shows 2. Got a question in to FAST to see what's going on. It should be reading zero while ignition is on (and not running) and while at idle. Any ideas?
Not sure why but my TPS is reading 2 while the car is off but ignition is on. I've recalibrated the pedal but it still shows 2. Got a question in to FAST to see what's going on. It should be reading zero while ignition is on (and not running) and while at idle. Any ideas?
64beam
Donation Time
Hi,
Have you been through the "throttle blade adjustment"? The '2' reading that you are seeing on the display could be OK as it may be where your idle screw is set to. The throttle blade adjustment is the final adjustment made in the setup process. Anyway Matt at FAST will sort you out, as he is very helpful.
Regards, Robin.
I'm an idiot. The two was for the page number. They tell you there should be a zero for TPS so I was looking for a zero. Right now there is nothing for a TPS reading....I guess zero just shows as blank.
If you change the throttle blade adjustment then you need to recalibrate your pedal so it again reads zero...or nothing.
If I can get away from putting up Christmas lights I'll check the fuel pressure etc. to make sure everything is ok.
If you change the throttle blade adjustment then you need to recalibrate your pedal so it again reads zero...or nothing.
If I can get away from putting up Christmas lights I'll check the fuel pressure etc. to make sure everything is ok.
64beam
Donation Time
We all have our moments Doug. I'm sure you can make up an excuse to test your car. The new filter seemed to do the trick with my problem. I had an 60 Mile trip to the car club Christmas lunch with no problems at all.
Regards, Robin.
Robin, have you put in AF targets other than what was the base setting?
Right now my Idle AF is 13.6. I'm not sure if that was a base number or if my tune guy changed it.
Do you know what the base numbers are for idle, cruise and WOT? I suppose I could reset them but am trying to keep what little learning has taken place.
Today my car was idling too high. Close to 1300. It's set to 750 in the ECU. When I put it in gear it would die and then was very difficult to start. I messed with the blade adjustment and that made it so it wouldn't idle at all. I'll go through the set-up again and make sure it's dialed in.
I think a 160 thermostat ended up in my car. I had a 180 thermo and thought I changed it but think I accidentally put the 160 back in. With the 160 the car doesn't get warm enough for the adaptive learning to take place. I'll have to take the thermo housing off and check to make sure I have the right one.
Right now my Idle AF is 13.6. I'm not sure if that was a base number or if my tune guy changed it.
Do you know what the base numbers are for idle, cruise and WOT? I suppose I could reset them but am trying to keep what little learning has taken place.
Today my car was idling too high. Close to 1300. It's set to 750 in the ECU. When I put it in gear it would die and then was very difficult to start. I messed with the blade adjustment and that made it so it wouldn't idle at all. I'll go through the set-up again and make sure it's dialed in.
I think a 160 thermostat ended up in my car. I had a 180 thermo and thought I changed it but think I accidentally put the 160 back in. With the 160 the car doesn't get warm enough for the adaptive learning to take place. I'll have to take the thermo housing off and check to make sure I have the right one.
64beam
Donation Time
I have played with them, but only slightly as my car seemed to be running ok with the base settings. The base A/F setting were 13.6 for idle, 12.8 for WOT and 14.0 for cruising. You shouldn't need to reset your ECU completely, just re-calibrate your throttle blade adjustment (very simple). I have a 160 degree thermostat in my Tiger and everything is ok (or do you mean throttle blade adjustment?). The adaptive learning should turn on at around 140 degrees. I hope it goes well for you as you will love the drivability.
All the best, Robin.
64beam
Donation Time
Hi Doug,
Looks like I might have a dodgy rpm module too
. Went out in the Tiger last weekend and ran faultlessly, out this morning and played up. It was like I was getting fuel starvation, that was why I changed the filter. Did you end up sending your rpm module back to FAST?
Regards, Robin.
Looks like I might have a dodgy rpm module too
. Went out in the Tiger last weekend and ran faultlessly, out this morning and played up. It was like I was getting fuel starvation, that was why I changed the filter. Did you end up sending your rpm module back to FAST?Regards, Robin.
RootesRacer
Donation Time
You should probably pony up and buy the distributor they recommend for your engine to provide a reliable trigger.
Years ago in the first generation of my fuel injection system I provided an "on board" filter to allow the ECU to trigger off a coil in the way that the FAST ECU does.
Suffice to say, that feature gave all forms of grief in terms of warranty, tech support and general irritation. Triggering off an ignition coil is the most non-trivial circuit you can imagine.
The second generation system had no such provision, nor do we well an external adapter.
We took the approach of "do the trigger right, or not at all".
Needless to say the second and third gen systems have played out much nicer to both customer and seller.
Good luck.
Years ago in the first generation of my fuel injection system I provided an "on board" filter to allow the ECU to trigger off a coil in the way that the FAST ECU does.
Suffice to say, that feature gave all forms of grief in terms of warranty, tech support and general irritation. Triggering off an ignition coil is the most non-trivial circuit you can imagine.
The second generation system had no such provision, nor do we well an external adapter.
We took the approach of "do the trigger right, or not at all".
Needless to say the second and third gen systems have played out much nicer to both customer and seller.
Good luck.
Hi Doug,
Looks like I might have a dodgy rpm module too
Regards, Robin.
I didn't send the module back as I went to the Accel unit. As RootesRacer said "do the trigger right, or not at all." As they say in the FAST manual...garbage in-garbage out as far as signal goes. I figured I'd try the RPM module but once it died that was a good omen to go to the Accel.
I've been driving the car since I finished restoring it in 2004. I'm having fun correcting some of the small things that have been bugging me since I finished the car. I've only driven the car about 70 miles since putting the FAST system in. I took it off the road again to do some work on the wheels. Turns out one of my rear wheels had cracked and broken around the lug nut holes so I'm powder coating two new wheels. I also took the gas pedal off so I could modify it. It was 3/4" away from the brake pedal so I bent it and got some more space between the two pedals. I'm also trying to fix the fuel gauge as it only read 3/4 full when it had a full tank. Then the last thing to do is adjust the fan pulleys. they are just slightly out of alignment but enough so that it's wearing the belt a little and creating a fine black dust in the engine compartment.
64beam
Donation Time
It looks like FAST have a batch of dodgy rpm modules. One module yes, but both mine and Doug's have failed (mine is well on its way). What would you suggest for a decent distributor for a Windsor?
Regards, Robin.
RootesRacer
Donation Time
I doubt there is anything functionally wrong with the modules (unless FAST has no clue how to design stuff).
The likely problem is triggering off the coil is very difficult as the voltage and shape of the waveform varies a great deal with barometric pressure, temperature and phase of the moon (JK).
Its an awful signal to reliably detect.
As for what to use?
I would think that FAST would have a good opinion.
Look for an electronic ignition system that PROVIDES a direct tach signal output that FAST deems compatible.
Typically this will be called a 0 to 12 or 0 to 5v trigger (HALL).
The FAST ECU should be able to provide an input for this.
Also some systems (perhaps FAST too) can use an OEM electronic ignition VR input (like from a ford duraspark dizzy) and drive the coil directly.
I dont deal with dizzys much anymore since all my stuff is distributorless.
HTH
64beam
Donation Time
Hi,
Thanks for your reply. I still think that my module has a fault (intermittent one) as I could wiggle the wires going into it which caused the injectors to operate (not loose connections on my part). Anyway, I am looking into an ignition module from ICE, so hopefully my troubles will soon be in the past (fingers crossed).
Regards, Robin.
Mine is getting better all the time. I still have some issues that may not learn themselves out. I may have a bad IAC motor because sometimes the idle sticks at 1,300-1,400 RPM's. It goes away if I turn the car off and back on. Then the other day it only wanted to idle at 300 RPM's. Both are related to the IAC motor from what I've read.
I was also having a problem when using full throttle. It just didn't want to go full blast without coughing and sputtering. This seems to be going away. I'm still not convinced my fuel "Targets" are where they should be. I will likely fiddle with these to get them better. The car does get better every time I drive it but with all the rain I haven't had much chance to get the miles in for the system to really learn.
I was also having a problem when using full throttle. It just didn't want to go full blast without coughing and sputtering. This seems to be going away. I'm still not convinced my fuel "Targets" are where they should be. I will likely fiddle with these to get them better. The car does get better every time I drive it but with all the rain I haven't had much chance to get the miles in for the system to really learn.