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Ford 2.3 installed

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
I prefer the stock location also! Lots of folks move the battery box for varying reasons, none of which I have found necessary.

Routing of the exhaust pipe(s) has been the most common idea put forth as to why removal of the battery box and locating the battery in the trunk.. I gave that a lot of attention early on during my 1st V6 project. Finally decided to "notch" the bottom of the box about 1 & 1/2" by 3" and it made all the difference in the world for routing the exhaust pipe for the dual system. And I have a large battery fitting in there as well.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Bill, one of my several 1940 Ford coupes had the battery in the trunk and it worked great. With the double tanks removed a battery may fit in the passenger side tank area keeping it out of the way of other trunk items. Not sure yet, but thinking about it. If I keep the original battery position I may fiberglass the inner walls as an insulator material and to stiffen it. Also better venting for the battery box seems a good idea. It does sit low in the OEM spot...which is good. A friend had a battery blow up on a high dollar car and acid went everywhere, so that may be why I don't like them in a interior area. Okay, I know that is very rare but does happen. Another friend had a totally enclosed battery box that almost burned up his rod when it shorted because he could not get to it quickly. With the heavier Ford motor the trunk may give better weight distribution also. A shelf will probably be built on top of the tank for luggage, umbrella, and folding chairs. I also carry a fire extinguisher in the trunk with tools and hard to find parts...which our cars seem to always have. MERRY CHRISTMAS to my SAOCA members.
 

PROCRAFT

Donation Time
Keep the battery in the stock location as Bill said,low polish moment of inertia
Andall that stuff everything within the wheelbase use foam board to fill the void to keep the battery from sliding around I'm using an Optima battery redid the box to fit the battery old one was toast anyway. I put the ground inside the box also limit's movement.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
PROCRAFT, after looking closer to my choices I think you are right...keep battery in original box but modified. Dan, the spare is the factory position and spare with new tire. It is only to get us to a station where we fix or replace the bad tire. A 13" at slow speed will not hurt...if it happens. YES, I can use the factory sunken wheel well. Too hard to explain but stay tuned. ALL IDEAS APPRECIATED.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Thanks 260. Not sure just yet what I will do about the inside of the box but it will be INSULATED Top, Bottom, and Sides for safety. One of the most sickening things I ever witnessed was a beautiful street rod burning.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Just a FYI about the Ford 2-barrel intake. I sand blasted it and tried to fit it on the motor in the car. IT WILL NOT WORK. I liked the look of the blasted aluminum Ford 2-barrel intake but with the carb barrels running side-to-side, it hits the steering box. The Esslinger clears with a little grinding and places the barrels front-to-rear, which should help any #1 - #4 cylinders starving or lean conditions. Anyway, it was worth a try and would definitely make linkage easier to fabricate.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Bill Blue you are correct...extra space is definitely gone! Working with a sportscar is definitely different from an American engine space. Before installing trans I mounted the alternator, master cylinder, set the carb in place, radiator, voltage regulator, coil, and firewall braces to check clearances. After the carb linkage, fuel line, wiring, and miscellaneous goodies are mounted I may need to mount some things on the outside! The passengers side is empty for now but after the header is fabricated, air conditioning compressor/dryer mounted, heater hoses installed, brake lines run, and under hood gauges mounted, that side will be full also. So much for a little engine giving plenty of room to work. I'll post pictures later.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
the carb barrels running side-to-side, it hits the steering box.

Charlie, I thought I suggested some spacers under the Anchor 2424 Rubber Biscuits before now, but, place a few 1 &1/2 to 2" flat washers on the Anchor studs to raise the engine to clear the steering box for the Carb's....
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Thanks Dan, I've got that covered. Any suggestions for a dual outlet master with a 11/16 or 3/4 bore? I have a 3/4 bore single and it looks like I have room for a dual without the power booster.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
These pictures show how the engine compartment is filling fast on the drivers side. Looking at the opposite side and the "stuff" that must go there, room will be at a premium.
 

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Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
When doing Alpine engine swaps, anything bigger than a 1600 is a big engine.
Charles, remember lo these many years ago, I said you would be scouring junkyards looking for parts you could modify for use in your project?
Looks like you have arrived.

Bill
 

PROCRAFT

Donation Time
PROCRAFT, after looking closer to my choices I think you are right...keep battery in original box but modified. Dan, the spare is the factory position and spare with new tire. It is only to get us to a station where we fix or replace the bad tire. A 13" at slow speed will not hurt...if it happens. YES, I can use the factory sunken wheel well. Too hard to explain but stay tuned. ALL IDEAS APPRECIATED.
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phyrman

SAOCA Secretary
Diamond Level Sponsor
I don't carry spare tires anymore. Go to the local auto parts store and buy the tire kit that you squirt the goop into the tire and it has a small air compressor to inflate. You just need an elec outlet The Mazda Miatas have done this for many years Quite compact

BD
 

loose_electron

Donation Time
Thanks 260. Not sure just yet what I will do about the inside of the box but it will be INSULATED Top, Bottom, and Sides for safety. One of the most sickening things I ever witnessed was a beautiful street rod burning.
Get a 250- 350A fuse in line with the battery as close to the battery as possible.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Not carrying a spare has crossed my mind. I retired from a city where I was shop superintendent working on all emergency equipment...ambulances, fire fighting equipment, police patrol cars, and public works equipment. I used tire plugs even on police patrol cars, after I was shown a properly installed plug capable of 120 mph speed safely. With a small 12 volt compressor and a few of these plugs, I would feel safe without a spare. My only concern is a cut especially on the sidewall. About half of the flats seen on cruises with Hot Rod buddies were cuts a plug would not fix. But still that means half of them could have been plugged. I am still deciding. The Optima battery is the best solution for power, but I have a water distillery for electrolyte in my batteries, which last 5 to 6 years for me. Distilled water is pure, and calcium plus other impurities are one of the reasons for battery death. Optima will probably be my choice with a 65 to 70 amp alternator. I am quickly running out of space for an air conditioner compressor due to the header. Using foam around the battery looks like a great idea for safety...both as an insulator and to keep it from moving. Thanks for all your ideas.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Bill was right, space gets filled quickly in a Sunbeam. The drivers side is mocked-up except brake and fuel lines. The passenger side is also filling fast and I don't have heater hoses, AC lines, dryer, finished header, compressor bracket, or the starter, solenoid, or starter heavy wire mounted. One needs a great imagination to fill the space without it being cluttered.
 

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Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
"One needs a great imagination to fill the space without it being cluttered."

I prefer self-hypnosis. Quick and easy. It works because most people will never tell you the truth.
Bill
 
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